Hi guys,

 

I'm pretty much a novice when it comes to car DIY, but decided to skill myself up. 

 

One of my coil springs broke and I decided to change it having read the historical briskoda threads and watching the videos. 15 minutes a side... What could go wrong! 

 

In the video, the guy has about one inch to compress with the trolley jack to make the holes meet up on the control arm. 

 

I have around 8/9 inches to compress. Should I be doing this with a trolley jack? That seems like a lot of compression. On the videos they are all pretty close to having the holes match up without any tension, so this seems a little odd to me.

 

I've included a pic as a reference point.

 

Probably shouldn't have booked my MOT for Tuesday!

 

Updated to add it's a 2004 (54) Octavia Elegance Hatchback. 

 

Thanks,

 

Joe.

 

Edited 9 August, 20205 yr by joeninho

I have done mine and I don't remember having that much of a gap with the spring unloaded. Are you sure that you have the correct spring and that it is seated properly? Can you compare it with the one that you have taken off?

Edited 9 August, 20205 yr by Liger1956
Spelling

I'm pretty sure it's the correct spring, as it looks identical when sitting side by side with the broken spring. 

 

Also fairly certain it's seated correctly, although any advice is welcome. 

Another couple of pics to see if that will shed any light on matters...

You still have the shock absorber connected.

 

In fact when I have replaced mine I have not needed to disconnect the wishbone, just the shocker in order to lower the wishbone enough to remove the spring like in this video:

 

 

 

Your set up does look different, it should be the easiest job in the world.

Edited 9 August, 20205 yr by J.R.

51 minutes ago, J.R. said:

You still have the shock absorber connected.

 

I did not disconnect the shock absorber when I did mine just the wishbone bolt. The suspension design in the video is different to mine. I seem to remember having to slightly lever up the wishbone to get it onto the trolley Jack but the gap in the photo seems excessive if everything is correct. Have you tried jacking up the wishbone? If the holes line up before the car is raised off the side Jack by the spring pressure then I would think that it is OK. You can then try the other side and see how that goes.

Edited 9 August, 20205 yr by Liger1956
Extra info

I'm happy to give it a go with the trolley jack.

 

One of the reasons for posting was to get options on whether it was safe to do so.

 

I would imagine that a compressed spring could do me some damage if it came flying out! 

9 hours ago, J.R. said:

You still have the shock absorber connected.

 

In fact when I have replaced mine I have not needed to disconnect the wishbone, just the shocker in order to lower the wishbone enough to remove the spring like in this video:

 

Your set up does look different, it should be the easiest job in the world.

 

The OP has a MK2 1Z Octavia whereas that video is for a MK1 1U which is why the suspension is different

 

The OP distance doesn't seem to different to this video:

 

When I did this I also used spring compressors to take most tension. My car was also higher as I needed access to remove the seized concentric bolts and suspension arms which made it easier to get a jack and block of wood under the spring mount during reassembly.

 

There is always a risk the spring can fly out but if it's properly seated, it should be OK... Just be mindful of where your fingers are compared to the spring!

Thanks for that Wino, my memory playing tricks again.

 

I have replaced them on both my MK1 and MK2 Octavias, the MK1 a decade ago but the MK2 was at the end of 2018 so its annoying that it should be the former that I recall.

 

Nonethless its probable that if the OP needs to gain some more travel that disconnecting the shock absorber lower mounting will allow the hub to be further lowered as it acts as the rebound travel stop.

 

I have the job to do for my neighbour very soon so the video was welcomed.

Anytime; by the way, what did I do?

You didn't, it was Langers2K 🥴

 

You are both such helpfull contributors that I get confused between you both!

We'll, I'm having a nightmare this morning, guys... So much for 15 minutes a side! 🤣

 

So, I used the trolley jack to compress the springs. With about 3 inches to go it was feeling a bit ropey, so I thought discretion is the better part of valour.

 

Called my local garage and they will fit the springs for 30-60 mins labour. I'll be back to fight another day. 

 

Fair enough, so I'll just reassemble it then... 

 

At the moment, I cannot get these holes to line up. No amount of levering, hammering or swearing will get the arm to budge.

 

Any thoughts? 

 

Pic below.

 

 

Pin punch will work quite well, alternatively a screw driver with a small bit of rag over the end so you dont damage the threads. However i never use ths rag and have had no problems

Is the car jacked up in one corner only? If so, levelling it may help?

I had something similar. If I remember correctly  in my case one side of the wishbone hole appeared to be inboard of the hole and the other was outwards so the wishbone was not in the correct place alongb the length of the car. Try moving the trolley Jack and/or the wishbone slightly towards the front or back of the car.

The spring should be fine when compressed in situ as it's held captive top and bottom.

 

I've never had a problem jacking the wishbone up to refit the bolt, just a little manipulation with a longish No.2 Philips in the bore to help align the holes, I attribute this to flex in the wishbone/bush.

It's basic mechanical nouse which comes with experience but also becomes lost with absence of frequently working on vehicles and age.

 

I really felt inadequate when I snapped a bolt trying to remove it a couple of years back, it may have been weak, it may have been corroded, I may have had to load it to the point where it would snap but in the past I would always have sensed the initial yield when it reached its elastic limit and backed off, you have to keep your hand in yet with ultra reliable cars we dont get the opportunities that we once had.

Ok guys. Not a complete success, although I did manage to reassemble with the aid of leveling the car, using a screwdriver and wedging a stone in there. Needs must! 

 

Not overly impressed, but nonetheless, I've skilled up a bit with the tips and tricks from all of you, so thank you. 

 

Now to see if I have the stones to take it off and try again based on MicMac's post... 🤔

Edited 10 August, 20205 yr by joeninho
Spelling

49 minutes ago, MicMac said:

The spring should be fine when compressed in situ as it's held captive top and bottom.

 

I've never had a problem jacking the wishbone up to refit the bolt, just a little manipulation with a longish No.2 Philips in the bore to help align the holes, I attribute this to flex in the wishbone/bush.

 

Thanks for the post MicMac. Are you saying that it should be safe enough using only the trolley jack to compress the spring? I would say it is a good 8 or 9 inches. Got it down to 3 earlier then bottled it.

 

My concern is having the spring compressed then bashing about near it with screwdrivers and hammers to get the bolt in.

 

Read some random (non briskoda) threads talking about the danger of working with compressed springs. That gave me the fear! 🤣

 

If I am being a wuss, say so!

Im up your way later, but it will be late and ill have the family otherwise id offer to give it a go for you. 

If you have the spring seated properly it shouldnt go anywhere. If you think about how much the back end will flex when you fo up and down kerbs, it should stay in place.

Only reason it might pop a spring is if it wasnt seated properly in the first place or the arm that you are jacking up moves forwards or backwards.

Take it slowly asnyou jack it up and you should be fine,

sound be fine as the spring is  not under too much tension, you may need some extra help with someone aligning the hole with the screw driver at one end, while you tread the bolt in through the other side.  It should be just gentle taps of the bolt rather than excessive force as screwdriver is the bit that will help you guide the bolt through.

Being cackalack with potentially hazardous equipment you've never dealt with before is your spider-sense kicking in, if you threw caution to the wind you'd never be an age concern for the NHS!

 

Springs compressed or in tension can hold great amounts of energy (think grenade) so always treat them with respect and work from a direction not in direct line of potential failure.

 

Working carefully and methodically always a few steps ahead of your hands, you can see the spring is held captive by a circular dome up top and a peg in hole affair down below.

 

Jack the wishbone from as near the outer end as possible and work from behind and below keeping the jack such that it raises the wishbone as straight as possible without twisting it in the fore-aft axis.

 

Once the holes are near aligned insert a sturdy screwdriver in part-way and lever slightly (should only be mm's) to align the side you are inserting the bolt from, insert the bolt and if it binds on the exit side, retract it a bit and screwdriver the exit hole and retry.

 

Clean/rust-free parts help as does a smear of grease and some light persuasion with a hammer.

 

Be careful that the jack won't slip or try wrenching the loaded wishbone overly aggressive causing the jack to roll/slip off the wishbone.

 

If there's a depression or other part of the wishbone you can jack on for better grip use it.

Edited 10 August, 20205 yr by MicMac

Thanks for the replies guys and the very generous offer, Munfred. Much appreciated.

 

My local garage put it through it's MOT today and fitted the spring free of charge, so that was a bonus, although it still feels like a hollow victory.

 

Anyway the saga continues...

 

They put the brake caliper for the near side rear as an advisory and said it needs changing soon. Well, they were not wrong!

 

I have just driven the car home from the garage and the rear wheel is roasting hot. Some quick reading suggests the caliper is indeed the culprit, although I also read something about the handbrake cable, which is interesting, as I could move the car fairly easily by rolling the back wheel.

 

Undeterred from my latest defeat, I am determined that my shiny new tool set sees some more action and so I think I will give the caliper a go. Is this one that I can reasonably take on? 

 

If it is, keep your eyes posted for a new thread! 🤣

 

Looks like my old Skoda could be a good proving ground.

 

Thanks again,

 

Joe. 

Another easy job.

 

Also another easy job to **** up 😀

 

But thats how you gain experience

 

You can buy a pair dirt cheap from the Chinese Ebay seller Maxspeedingrods alternatively repair kits are cheap, I had good results with the Chinese calipers.

Great stuff, JR.

 

Thanks for the info - I will give this one a go as well and pick up a cheapo from the seller you mentioned. 

 

I will keep you guys posted on the ooutcome...