I'm sure this topic has been discussed before but I'm afraid my search mojo seems to have failed me.  My Yeti has just failed its MoT due to the offside headlamp aim being too high.  I can't find anything in the manual about how to adjust this.  I seem to remember some discussion about having to reset the levelling system (or maybe not).  Any informed advice - or even just a link to the earlier relevant thread - would be most gratefully received.

 

For clarity: the car is a 2017 SE L with the Bi-Xenon headlights.

 

As an aside: they also failed it because of a fault with the 13-pin socket for the trailer lightboard.  Allegedly this was not operating the rear fog lamp.  When I got home I hooked up my towball mounted bike carrier and confirmed that all the lightboard functions were operating correctly.  So I have to admit I'm a bit skeptical about quality of their testing...)

Xenons require diagnostic equipment to re-adjust.

 

The car should be parked on a flat surface and be empty with no additional weight in it.

 

The xenon controller is then but into basic settings mode and the lights go to a standard middle position. Then the lights are set to the correct position and the settings are saved.

 

The car then registers this position as being the middle position to reference to using the height sensors on the suspension.

Hi

 

The self levelling will affect both headlights equally. It's driven from a sensor with alittle arm linked to the rear suspension.  I believe the individual headlight units still have mechanical up/down and left/right adjustments by hex key, in addition to the "software" setting for levelling.  Unfortunately I have no info on which screw is which, so it's a case of trial and error.

 

I vaguely remember seeing a story that the official MOT approved trailer socket tester gives the wrong result.  A case of common sense having to over-rule what the "computer says" !

2 hours ago, Austin 7 said:

I vaguely remember seeing a story that the official MOT approved trailer socket tester gives the wrong result.  A case of common sense having to over-rule what the "computer says" !

 

Well, that's just great   Maybe I'll just leave the bike carrier on and connected next time so they can see it for themselves.  The fail notice does specifically refer to the rear fog lamp: I checked and the one on the lightboard works fine.  The one on the car itself is disabled when there's something plugged in to the socket - which is what's supposed to happen.  Maybe the tester got confused?  They said they'd give it a free re-test within ten days but I can't see any point if they'll just fail it again on something that's working entirely correctly.  So much for cut-price MoTs - I only took it there because the next service isn't due for another month and I didn't want to pre-empt that just for the sake of an MoT, which I fully expected it to pass.  Looks like I'll have to take it to the dealer anyway if that's the only way to get the headlight adjusted (which is about as far from "simply clever" as I can currently imagine).

Edited 19 September, 20205 yr by ejstubbs

Are the Xenons doing the up and down and left and right dance on startup? Are they the same level in "On" and in "Auto"?

 

If there's an issue with the system they default to a low leave.

5 hours ago, logiclee said:

Are the Xenons doing the up and down and left and right dance on startup? Are they the same level in "On" and in "Auto"?

 

I'm going to check all that this evening.  If there was a fault and they'd defaulted to the low position then it would be even more difficult to understand the tester reporting it as being too high.  If nearside and offside measure out at the same level then I shall be very suspicious.

 

I'm going to get try to get the guy who fitted my tow bar to come and check the connector, just in case there is something gone awry that I'm not spotting.  I'm also inclined to see if my dealer, or some other local specialist, can do a headlight aim test.  If both report back NFF then I shall be having words with the place that did the MoT.  I think a free re-test (which they have already offered) and a refund of the test fee as recompense for the time and trouble they've put me to would be reasonable. 

Edited 20 September, 20205 yr by ejstubbs

If there was a fault causing the lights to aim wrong then there would also likely be an error warning on the dash.

 

Just try parking up to a flat white wall or garage door or something and compare the beams. They should both be at the same height and should be easy to compare with the sharp xenon beam.

 

And as above just make sure they do their full down, out, in and up startup "dance". It can also happen that the motor or motor mount can snap causing that light not to move anymore but it reports no error as the motor is still working.

I've just checked the lights against the fence at the end of our more-or-less level drive.  The atartup "dance" was performed as expected (once I'd turned the ignition on - I actually do so little night driving that I'd forgotten they didn't do it until the car decided that you were actually about to start driving!)  Oddly - given what the MoT report said - the offside beam cutoff seemed to be ~1.6cm lower than the nearside beam cutoff with the car sat ~70cm from the fence.  When the car was ~8m away from the fence both beam cutoffs were ~5cm lower.

 

Do those numbers seem OK, allowing for the somewhat crude measuring system I used (steel tape & 80cm spirit level)?

 

I also checked for ECU error codes using both Torque and Carista.  Carista reported an error code relating to the front passenger door (not sure what - my subscription isn't up to date).  Torque reported nothing.

 

Looks like I'll be on the phone to my towbar fitter & Skoda dealer in the morning...

TIBET I was always getting flashed at initially and Allams tweaked the off side headlight (Xenon) with an Allen key on the headlight unit itself. No more being flashed at. 
 

Recently, current TIBET III (Xenons) seemed to be attracting unwanted flashing so I tweaked both units down just a tiny tad (against the garage door). I’m away from base so can’t post a picture but there’s a hex screw inboard and to the rear of each headlight unit. Didn’t need much of a turn. 
 

I don’t disbelieve those that say it has to be done via VCDS etc etc but I can assure you you can adjust the base setting ‘mechanically’. 
 

PS I didn’t measure distances/heights against the garage door so can’t help there. 

Edited 20 September, 20205 yr by aerofurb

On 19/09/2020 at 18:45, Austin 7 said:

I vaguely remember seeing a story that the official MOT approved trailer socket tester gives the wrong result.  A case of common sense having to over-rule what the "computer says" !

 

I just spoke to the guy who fitted my towbar.  He confirmed that the standard MoT testing tool for 13-pin connectors* is not fit for purpose.  Apparently it uses LEDs to indicate which lighting circuits are working.  As anyone who has followed the many threads on here about retro-fitting LED lights in place of incandescent bulbs will be aware, the ECU thinks an LED is a failed bulb.  As a result, it disables the lamp in question.  So the testing device works on older towbar installations where the lighting circuits are not monitored by the ECU, but not modern ones where the connector is properly integrated in to the car's wiring loom   How kind it is of our legislators to pass regulations which they fail to ensure are enforced properly...

 

His suggestion was to take the car back for its free re-test with the cycle carrier fitted so that the tester can see the actual lights on the actual light board actually working.  Which I will do, but it will be a bit of a PITA to have to remember to do that every time it needs an MoT, or else take the risk that the MoT tester doesn't know that the tool he's supposed to use is a crock.

 

I've also got it booked in to the local dealer on Thursday for a headlight alignment check.  I shall make sure that I get a clear report from them as to what they find.

 

* He also said that 7-pin connectors don't need to be tested as part of the MoT.  Go figure...

Might be worth a look on here @ejstubbs; to see if there's any internal info about this issue in the testers community. https://forums.motester.co.uk/

You don't have to be an MOT tester to post on there.

 

Relevant section of the test manual is here: section 4.10. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/mot-inspection-manual-for-private-passenger-and-light-commercial-vehicles/4-lamps-reflectors-and-electrical-equipment

Having researched this MOT and 13 pin Trailer socket tester subject, it would appear that this farcical situation has been going on for over 5 years !  Apparently there ARE socket testers on the approved list which use incandescent bulbs and therefore work properly.  I guess your MOT garage has somehow never woken up to the situation.

 

Some folks plug in a cheap 13 pin to 7 pin adaptor prior to the test, the socket then counts as 7 pin and doesn't need testing.  Logic and MOT's don't necessarily coincide !

Edited 21 September, 20205 yr by Austin 7

https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/mot-special-notice-01-19-towbar-electrical-socket-test-tools-diesel-smoke-meters-and-annual-training-and-assessments

Cheap solution

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Anpro-Waterproof-Trailer-Caravan-Electric/dp/B0713WVDDP

 

 

Edited 21 September, 20205 yr by xman

1 hour ago, Austin 7 said:

Some folks plug in a cheap 13 pin to 7 pin adaptor prior to the test, the socket then counts as 7 pin and doesn't need testing. 

 

Seriously?  Even more farcical.

Unfortunately I can't find anyone who can ship me a 13-pin to 7-pin adapter in time to get the car re-tested before its MoT is actually due.  I think I'm going to have to take it for the re-test with the bike carrier fitted and tell them to "test that".  Since it's a re-test they should only be looking at the light board, they shouldn't need to test the operation of the lights on the car (except the headlights) so they shouldn't need to unplug the 13-pin connector.

 

I am currently trying to speak to the DVSA to find out if they regard that as acceptable but, after spending six minutes navigating through ACD menus and listening to the same recorded information about MoT tests and coronavirus after each selection  I have now been sat listening to their execrable 1950s-lift-musak hold music for a further ten minutes and counting, and I'm losing the will (maybe even the desire) to live...

Eurocarparts

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/ring-13-pin-plug-7-pin-socket-adaptor-550770400

Screwfix

https://www.screwfix.com/p/maypole-mp601-13-pin-to-7-pin-vehicle-to-trailer-adaptor-12v/48935

Halfords

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/trailers-towing/trailer-accessories/ring-13-to-7-plug-in-adapter-197494.html

 

etc etc

What towbar is it?  Can you simply remove it?

On 22/09/2020 at 14:00, xman said:

Eurocarparts

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/ring-13-pin-plug-7-pin-socket-adaptor-550770400

Screwfix

https://www.screwfix.com/p/maypole-mp601-13-pin-to-7-pin-vehicle-to-trailer-adaptor-12v/48935

Halfords

https://www.halfords.com/motoring/trailers-towing/trailer-accessories/ring-13-to-7-plug-in-adapter-197494.html

 

etc etc

 

Thanks, but those are twice as expensive or more than the ones available online.

 

I am also unsure how they'll respond if a car that was failed due to a (non-existent) fault with its 13-pin socket turns up for the re-test with a 7-pin socket.  Easier this time I time I think to fit the bike carrier and let them try to argue that the lights don't work on that.  Since they are supposed to test the vehicle "as presented" I don't see how they can object to the bike carrier being in place.

 

I'll get one of the £5 adapters anyway so's to be ready for the next MoT.

 

I have downloaded the DVSA complaint form already, just in case they do kick up a fuss at the re-test!

My Yeti was tested a few weeks ago the examiner did not remove the bumper cover for the towbar so did not test the 13 pin plug.  I was stood at the back of the car so I could see what was going on. The car passed .

So the Yeti was in to my local dealer today to have the headlight aim checked.  Their comments on the invoice (a copy of which will be presented to the MoT garage):

 

"Checked and found no fault with headlamp aim and it is within MOT specification.  Carried out guided fault finding and no faults recorded.  Checked head lamps and level sensors.  All OK.  No fault found at time of test."

 

I shall be having a "conversation" with the MoT garage tomorrow...