I know I have mentioned this before, I have received conflicting advice on how to move forwards with my suspected vrs head gasket issues, It is sorned at the moment and is only  started every couple of weeks to keep the oil circulating and only run for a max of 5 mins, to move out and back in the garage.

Visited an independent garage yesterday who was recommended, looked a tidy place.

I said what I knew had possibly happened to the car and that my son had to add water to the expansion bottle fairly infrequently, and that it had a sniff test carried out confirming combustion gasses were present in the bottle.

I was told yesterday  they did not carry out cylinder  head jobs any more as they recently had issues with a couple of jobs with the gasket failing again, a BMW and Ford diesel and both could not be resolved , having both to be fitted with used engines.

Their thoughts were that the block to head  which were alloy must have been warped causing  failure again.

a member on here suggested trying up rated head bolts ( I bought some last autumn from Dark side) but as yet not tried , I have spoken to a VW specialist who said never done a head gasket yet!

To an engineering firm who are old school who said its ok to skim this engine type head as long as its a small amount requiring removal, not sure what that means, maybe gasket thickness options.

To re manufactured new heads at quite a cost.

Bit of a dilemma really, I would like to sort it out but at the end of the day its value is of course minimal.

Any advice , reassurance would be very much appreciated.

Ps I would carry out all work ,stripping , replacing with best quality parts as required.   

 thanks in advance

Martin

It's not complicated, you need OE MLS gasket, PD150 head bolts, belt kit and a water pump.

The head needs skimming minimally but you shouldn't change gasket thickness as that's related to piston crown height above the block deck which will not have changed.

 

Get to it.

Hi again Sepulchrave, I appreciate your thoughts, just a couple of things if the same thickness of head gasket is used once the head is skimmed would that not effect the compression  and secondly what does mls stand for.

I have already bought pd 150 head bolts last year ready to use.

You see the car requires new break discs and pads all round, the rear shocks look weapy and the front struts look very pitted with rust , needs an exhaust back box minimum, all consumables I know but adds to the initial outlay before I can think of an mot pass.

I also want to remove the power ecu flash to back to normal acceptable power.

Thanks

Martin

The head is not chambered, it's flat, the combustion chamber is in the piston crown.

MLS means multi-layered steel.

The cost of the repairs are relevant if you want to sell the car, less so if you just want to drive it.

Thanks for explaining, it's to keep and enjoy for as long as derv power is allowed or cost prohibited. 

The only way, as I'm sure you well know, to get anything done is to start doing it. 

 

In seriousness though, I would be doing the head gasket first followed by the front struts and then whatever of the smaller jobs takes my fancy first. That way if you find anything while doing the head that you might have to wait for (parts/reconditioning etc), you can do the other jobs while you wait. But yeah go for the biggest job first I would say.

Hi Kentdale,

Several years ago (roughly 6 years) the head gasket went on my vRS (usual signs mainly being the lose of coolant and having to top it up continually etc).

I had the head skimmed, new gasket inserted and new 150PD bolts.  This was all done on my car when it had 102,000 miles - I currently have 234,000 miles on it and the head gasket has remained solid with no issues (touch wood I haven't jinxed it...).

 

What sepulchrave has said above it spot on 👍

Hi Steveo1,good to know the similar issue to my vrs worked out for you and to hear its hopefully recoverable for me as well.

Appreciate your input.