Fabia interior light stays on

[Alext]

i have checked every door ant it semms the front passenger door switch is bad :(

at least its not the convinience modul..

about the vcds:i have checked it online and the genuine starts from 200usd :(

does the aftermarket ones are any good?what is your experiences with it?

thanks

[Breezy_Pete]

The registered version of VCDS Lite does everything I've ever wanted or needed to do on mk1 Fabia.  Third-party cable for less than 20GBP, like this: https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VAGUSB.html or similar can be found cheaper on ebay.

VCDS Lite is freeware. If you find it can't do what you want, register it for 99USD and then it probably will. 

Function chart here: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Functions#:~:text=Function Chart VAS%2FODIS VCDS-Lite, Yes 35 more rows

 

 

Edited 15 November, 2020 by Wino

[Alext]

so probably any aftermarket vag cable will work with the lite version?

[Breezy_Pete]

Yep, if it says FTDI, and stuff about K-line or KKL, it can probably work.  Download the VCDS Lite software directly from ross-tech though, there are suggestions that ones that come with cables on CDs etc. might have 'bonus' malware.

[Alext]

thanks

[Alext]

one more thing: i dont want to open a new tread just for that:

do you know how to remove the blaupunkt cd35 car stereo unit?

that was the original one from factory in my fabia but i cant find the tools for it

[TMB]

You can buy the removal tools on ebay. You just detach the removable front of the stereo and use the tools.

[Alext]

i tried but could not find any tool for this specific model.and by just search for blaupunkt there is at leaset 3-4 different looking removal tools

[Breezy_Pete]

The interior light 'controlled ground' connection is done by this device, I've just seen:

Datasheet here: http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1651292.pdf

 

Can be just on/off in terms of grounding the low side of the lights, and/or can do fancy stuff like fading out gradually. 

 

[Alext]

hi.thanks.can you send picture from the whole unit?

[Alext]

i have another problem 

i just managed to poke out the old stereo (10 min struggle)

then noticed that somethings wrong with my front left speaker

it does kind of work but its waay more silent and muffled too

does that a common failure?

[Breezy_Pete]

9 hours ago, Alext said:

hi.thanks.can you send picture from the whole unit?

This image is inverted compared to when it is mounted in the car. The red arrow is not relevant here.

Edited 17 November, 2020 by Wino

[Breezy_Pete]

8 hours ago, Alext said:

i have another problem 

i just managed to poke out the old stereo (10 min struggle)

then noticed that somethings wrong with my front left speaker

it does kind of work but its waay more silent and muffled too

does that a common failure?

That could be physical damage to the loudspeaker cone. Take the door card off and have a look.

[sepulchrave]

8 hours ago, Alext said:

i have another problem 

i just managed to poke out the old stereo (10 min struggle)

then noticed that somethings wrong with my front left speaker

it does kind of work but its waay more silent and muffled too

does that a common failure?

 

Reasonably common, it's not a Skoda thing so much as a 'listening to primitive music far too loud' thing.

Replace the speaker and turn the volume down if you start to hear distortion.

[Alext]

actually it was my mothers car.she only ever used it rarely for radio stations and strictly only at moderate volumes.she didnt even noticed it was anything wrong

now i inherited the car,changed the stereo and tried it with proper music,then noticed the problem

the cone seems intact.it does not have cracking-popping sounds,its just way less loud and its muffled and flat.like if a 2 way speaker lose the mid/low coil but its a single coil full spectrum speaker so i dont get it whats the damage

[Breezy_Pete]

Any corrosion on the connections?

[Alext]

i dont see any corrosion on it

[Breezy_Pete]

Do you have a multimeter you could use to measure the DC resistance of the winding?

It will (should) be a low number of Ohms, so subtract the reading with probes shorted together.

 

Edited 17 November, 2020 by Wino

[Alext]

i do.i can check tomorrow.it should be 4 ohm,right?

[Breezy_Pete]

Probably, I have a new one at home I can measure for comparison; if I can find it...

[Alext]

thanks

i have problem with my door clyinder too.it has broken inside,it just turns 360 degrees :(

as far as i checked it,its the newer version(2006 year car) so its the non rebuildable version.i have managed to drill the pins out,it has been disassebled but the broken part inside is different than the other version from the rebuild kits..

do you have any solution for this?

IF not,my other idea is to replace the cylinder to a blank plate like this on the picture since im using the remote to open it anyways

but in that case,what is the way to get in the car if the remote dies?

 

[Tech1e]

You can fit the blank instead of the door lock, but then you are royally fudged if the remote stops working.

[Tech1e]

22 minutes ago, Alext said:

do you have any solution for this?

 

Replacement door lock.

 

[Alext]

arent any emergency entry method to get in the car if the remote stops working?

on replacement you mean i have to order a new cylinder from the dealer with my vin number?

i bet it would be horribly expensive

none of you managed to repair a cyclinder before?

[Tech1e]

Just now, Alext said:

1) arent any emergency entry method to get in the car if the remote stops working?

2) on replacement you mean i have to order a new cylinder from the dealer with my vin number?

3) i bet it would be horribly expensive

4) none of you managed to repair a cyclinder before?

1) Yeah, the key in the door...

2) Yes

3) About £90 the last time I ordered one from Skoda.

4) No, it's an assembled unit, just replaced them.