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1.2 TDI: Is it time to move on?

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7 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

No you weren't.

Allow me to translate:

 

Liar, pix or GTFO.

Does your carer know you're being rude to strangers on the Internet?


To be fair I thought it was a very diplomatic way to ask for conformation of something he suspected. Before telling you that you were incorrect in this instance he wanted to be sure.

And indeed, in this case your advice was irrelevant as it's a different EGR system.

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15 minutes ago, Murdockman said:

Just to add a comment, had a MK2 1.9 TDI for 12 years and started to have issues with the turbo sticking fault, cleaned turbo and EGR  and replaced cat  converter, all was well but then found that other issues like corrosion on parts worn bushes etc became an issue every MOT, did the work myself but still a fair bit of cash to to fork out every year, then last year went to drive to Bristol for a shopping trip only to find that private diesel cars were banned from city centre, ok used park and ride not an issue but if more towns and cites start to do this getting a petrol might be money well spent now, electric  is the answer  but need to improve vastly. 

That blanket ban seems full of issues to me, I wonder if the Mercedes plug in hybrid diesel was included? I tend to think in general blanket rules don’t tend to be that effective, but hey, I’m not a town mayor.

No, I'm sorry, you're all quite right.

 

The OP should just go and buy a new car, half a days labour to change that valve makes it a write-off, please ignore me, I'm so glad that more of you just piled in to make me see the error of my ways in giving duff advice.

 

I should have looked at the detailed schematics of that particular engine and decided that the work was impossible instead of drawing on my own recent experiences of just getting on with it, I must just be lucky that every job I do is so easy.

I'm too gung-ho, I don't use manuals at all, just a cowboy really.

 

Thank you all for straightening me out.

 

Peace out.

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8 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

No, I'm sorry, you're all quite right.

 

The OP should just go and buy a new car, half a days labour to change that valve makes it a write-off, please ignore me, I'm so glad that more of you just piled in to make me see the error of my ways in giving duff advice.

 

I should have looked at the detailed schematics of that particular engine and decided that the work was impossible instead of drawing on my own recent experiences of just getting on with it, I must just be lucky that every job I do is so easy.

I'm too gung-ho, I don't use manuals at all, just a cowboy really.

 

Thank you all for straightening me out.

 

Peace out.

I’m sorry but I really don’t see that as what the others were saying. From my point of view, you gave me some advice that I took on board, then the others gave me a second opinion, which I also took on board. It really didn’t seem to be intended as a personal attack or intended to undermine your knowledge, Wino was just asking for the part number because he wanted to do some further research on what you said. 

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Fact is, as soon as sepulchrave described it as a 'quick and easy job', I had considerable doubts that it could be the same set-up.

Only way I could be sure is to dig down into which engine sep was referring to, and had worked on.  No malice or hidden meanings.

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5 minutes ago, Wino said:

Fact is, as soon as sepulchrave described it as a 'quick and easy job', I had considerable doubts that it could be the same set-up.

Only way I could be sure is to dig down into which engine sep was referring to, and had worked on.  No malice or hidden meanings.

Thanks for your advice, what you said lines up with what I heard about these engines previously, which is what I was referring to at the start of this topic when I mentioned huge repair bills, so I would assume that the 2.0tdi mentioned by sepulchrave is a much different and easier job. It was my understanding that the smaller TDI’s were much more of a challenge, which you and the other replies here seem to confirm. 
 

Again, thanks for your help, as well as the others who’ve replied so far. 

7 minutes ago, CS45 said:

I’m sorry but I really don’t see that as what the others were saying. From my point of view, you gave me some advice that I took on board, then the others gave me a second opinion, which I also took on board. It really didn’t seem to be intended as a personal attack or intended to undermine your knowledge, Wino was just asking for the part number because he wanted to do some further research on what you said. 

 

I'm sorry too, but they have previous form going back years on here.

 

I wasn't suggesting that the precise method of work on your particular installation was the same at all, only that the results of that work were worthy of your consideration since all modern engines work pretty much the same way, because; from an engineering perspective there's really only one way to skin a cat.

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1 minute ago, sepulchrave said:

 

I'm sorry too, but they have previous form going back years on here.

 

I wasn't suggesting that the precise method of work on your particular installation was the same at all, only that the results of that work were worthy of your consideration since all modern engines work pretty much the same way, because; from an engineering perspective there's really only one way to skin a cat.

No worries, either way I’m going to look into both options, also the MoT is in February so I may well wait and see how the rest of the car is holding up then before I make a decision.

26 minutes ago, CS45 said:

No worries, either way I’m going to look into both options, also the MoT is in February so I may well wait and see how the rest of the car is holding up then before I make a decision.

 

I did say right off the bat that I thought it would cost a few hundred quid to replace the EGR valve and clean the existing DPF and I stand by that statement, obviously you should get some quotes nonetheless.

My ill-chosen example of the same work done recently with good results on a different engine was intended to illustrate the benefits rather than send your thread off the rails.

I have a 2.0 tdi cr and had to remove and clean the throttle valve that was really clogged.

 

My neighbour in the UK has the same engine in his Octavia and it looks like he needs the EGR valve & cooler assembly replaced as its throwing fault codes, pulling down the 5v sensor bus & causing the other sensors to give out of limit readings & going into limp mode, if the plug is removed aside from the EML light the engine runs without further problems or going into limp mode, it sounds to me like the gear mechanism is blocked.

 

I tried to convince him to leave it disconnected and fit a £99 EGR emulator but he is 1 million percent risk averse so will be paying the garage to replace it & hopefully it wont end up as parts bingo.

 

I cannot countenance being in the same situation here so have ordered one of the emulators and the EGR blanking plate to fit to my car, I think a couple of others on here have already done so.

 

Any comments, suggestions or experience regarding this would be very welcome in particular is it difficult to reach the wiring connector on the EGR to remove it to connect to the emulator, also any potential issues with the EGR cooler remaining in place.

 

I see from my study guides that when an active regen happens the EGR is switched off to raise the exhaust temperature so hopefully with it no longer functioning the exhaust gases will be hotter & more passive regeneration will occur.

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@J.R. I've not done the job myself, nor do I fancy doing from what I've seen, but have a look on youtube for relevant videos of the replacement process/access. 

I watched this one recently, but I fear it is rather long for your taste. Don't remember noticing the electrical connection's access but I think if you skim through it you'll find what you're after.  

 

Thankyou Wino, a skim it will be.

 

I wonder if Haynes Manuals have already given up creating books for newer vehicles? Everything is available on Youtube.

 

Mind you I would happily pay them the price of a manual just to be directed to the shorter more to the point videos that dont start with "HEY GUYS!" :D

Thanks for that, mine being a 4x4 will be more restricted, the connector looks to be at the top when installed but whether it can be reached from above is another matter.

 

I have spent far too many hours on Skodas with my forearms being jammed & getting the skin scraped off them whilst trying to diconnect a sensor blind & by feel without actually knowing whether the tab needs pushing or pulling, this will be more of the same but at least I will have the connector on the emulator as a reference.

 

Seeing how hard the job is especially without a ramp makes me all the more determined to fit this thing and stop the EGR working before it decides to do so itself.

 

Oh for another EU3 diesel!!!!

Apologies for hijacking CS45's thread, but In reply to J.R.

 

I fitted an emulator to my Superb II 2l & my son's Tiguan 2l.

 

Both took about 30 mins.

 

Removed the air inlet pipe to the turbo to give access down the back of the engine.

 

Found the EGR plug with the aid of a torch & mirror, it is completely hidden.

 

Reached down & found it by touch & disconnected it.

 

Connected it to the emulator  & emulator to MAF.

 

Secured the wiring & job done.

 

As long as the EGR isn't partially stuck open you don't need to blank it, but that is easy too if needed at the front of the engine.

 

Both engines have been trouble free since & regens happen when they need to without any problems.

 

I don't know if access is the same on a Yeti.

Edited by PipH

Thankyou for that, its reassuring.

 

Another thought struck me today, when the engine is in EGR mode, or in this case thinks its in EGR mode the throttle valve closes partially to create a vacuum increase to draw the exhaust gases in, the MAF sees a corersponding decrease in Fresh air being drawn into the engine, the emulator fools the maf into seeing what it wants to see. As the emulator does not plug into the throttle valve the engine will be running against a restricted airflow during the now pretend EGR periods.

 

If you have noticed no ill effects then I will forget about it, its probably of no consequence and no worse than breathing in all the soot and combustion gases.

 

Did you notice any change in MPG, driveability etc?

 

When I finally get the vehicle remapped I will try to get the emissions fix rolled back at the same time to minimise the time the engine spends (or thinks it is) in EGR.

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1 hour ago, PipH said:

Apologies for hijacking CS45's thread, but In reply to J.R.

 

 

No worries, I’m happy to host!

46 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Thankyou for that, its reassuring.

 

Another thought struck me today, when the engine is in EGR mode, or in this case thinks its in EGR mode the throttle valve closes partially to create a vacuum increase to draw the exhaust gases in, the MAF sees a corersponding decrease in Fresh air being drawn into the engine, the emulator fools the maf into seeing what it wants to see. As the emulator does not plug into the throttle valve the engine will be running against a restricted airflow during the now pretend EGR periods.

 

If you have noticed no ill effects then I will forget about it, its probably of no consequence and no worse than breathing in all the soot and combustion gases.

 

Did you notice any change in MPG, driveability etc?

 

When I finally get the vehicle remapped I will try to get the emissions fix rolled back at the same time to minimise the time the engine spends (or thinks it is) in EGR.

I don't think the throttle valve creates a vacuum as such, but just reduces the airflow which it thinks is being replaced by exhaust gas.

 

I keep a log of fuel consumption & noticed no change.

I do mainly long journeys interspersed with a few short trips, it currently works out at around 60mpg average.

19 minutes ago, PipH said:

An EGR emulator is a possible answer to a problem you don't have yet.

 

I don't know your engine code, but there is one for the CFWA 1.2 engine.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2334524.m570.l1313&_nkw=vw+1.2+egr+emulator&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_oac=1

 

And with the EGR out of the way, the DPF will have an easy time maintaining itself.

 

Thanks, that is what I had surmised and my reason for fitting one.

 

Mine is on its way. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/11-EGR-AGR-Emulator-Simulator-Plate-for-VW-Audi-Skoda-Seat-2-0-TDI-CR-II-Euro-5/183869556154?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

That's the one I used.

On 09/12/2020 at 20:57, CS45 said:

Hello, I’ve owned my 2010 Fabia estate GL2 for almost 2 years now, and I’ve loved it. I would happily keep it for a few more years. However, while me and it used to have a 40 minute motorway commute everyday, nowadays I’m only doing shorter journeys, such as 10 minutes on a mix of country roads and town driving to the supermarket and back, and an occasional 15-20minute trip on the A6 to university. 
 

I am well aware (paranoid, in fact) of the DPF and EGR issues these small TDI’s can have, and in the past 2 weeks I HAVE NOTICED IT REGENERATING TWICE. I’ve tried to always let it finish, but of course this is not always possible.

 

The MOT and insurance are due in February, and although I like the idea of sprucing up my current car and keeping it, I’m just not sure it’s going to withstand these short journeys for much longer. 
 

I just can’t bear the thought of selling it, as it is my first car and it’s always been so faithful, but at the same time I don’t fancy the huge repair bills to the EGR and DPF. 
 

Any advice? Do you think it would stand up to this usage? Or am I best saying goodbye to my beloved Fabia and getting a petrol car?


Thanks

 

 

Hi, I see you write, I have noticed it regenerating twice, may I pick your brain and ask, how DO you notice when regeneration is taking place, as I have no idea.

Thank You.

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Hi @deerslayer

you’d only really be able to notice at lower speeds, but the telltale signs are that the cooling fan runs, the car idles at around 1200rpm, the start stop system doesn’t activate, the fuel consumption may be a bit worse, and on the outside you may smell a hot, burning smell. 
 

Another sign I’ve noticed on my 1.2TDI is a subtle change in the sound of the engine. 

Edited by CS45
Forgot to tag

On 16/12/2020 at 23:55, CS45 said:

Hi @deerslayer

you’d only really be able to notice at lower speeds, but the telltale signs are that the cooling fan runs, the car idles at around 1200rpm, the start stop system doesn’t activate, the fuel consumption may be a bit worse, and on the outside you may smell a hot, burning smell. 
 

Another sign I’ve noticed on my 1.2TDI is a subtle change in the sound of the engine. 

 

Aye, thanks for that, I have noticed a pungent pong emiting from the car when itcomes up to temperature, I assume that is the regen taking place. Cheers.

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