Skip to content

Logged boost pressure via ODB Eleven, is this overboosting?

Featured Replies

  • Author
1 minute ago, newbie69 said:



Depends what kind of damage he means. I'd imagine "damaged" means less effective filtering so less back-ressure/more flow possible which doesn't add up. 


He said there's a chunk missing from the cat itself, but he didn't think it would negatively impact air flow.

3 minutes ago, TheBinarySheep said:


He said there's a chunk missing from the cat itself, but he didn't think it would negatively impact air flow.


I don't think either but I would personally replace the cat after such an incident. After all you're tuned and run a stronger turbo already, going stage 2 with a good catalyst and removing all parts that have suffered damage is a win-win. We are still talking really low costs all things considered, just my 2p though...

  • Author
3 hours ago, newbie69 said:


I don't think either but I would personally replace the cat after such an incident. After all you're tuned and run a stronger turbo already, going stage 2 with a good catalyst and removing all parts that have suffered damage is a win-win. We are still talking really low costs all things considered, just my 2p though...


I'm more than happy with a stage 1, but I want to make sure it's a reliable stage 1. If I have to replace the downpipe, then I may get a stage 1.5 done, but I don't want to purposefully going in that direction.

I've looked at my graphs some more. I read somewhere that said timing should gradually increase with revs, but I notice on my graph that timing steadily increases from -0.5 to 7, but then dips as low as 4.5 and jumps back up to 7.5 again. This corresponds to a change in the AFR as well. At 5000 rpm the timing is 7.0 and AFR 12.02. As the AFR gradually increases the timing reduces. At the lowest point, AFR is 12.25 and timing down to 4.5. I'm assuming that it's the change in the AFR that causes the drop in timing, but I won't why the change in AFR?

I do also wonder if the car is still pulling bits of oil from the intercooler and that's what is causing some of the timing to be retarded. I'm not going to speak with the tuner about it all just yet, as I have a feeling he'll say it's oil in the intake pipes still making it's way through the engine, which is may well be.

  • Author

I'm not going to worry about the logs for now. I cleaned my exhaust tips the other day, and within 50 mile they're absolutely black again. There's obviously still oil being pulled in through the intake from when the turbo went, so the logs are probably not accurate anyway.

Edited by TheBinarySheep

The timing will be retarded in response to the signals from the knock sensor & presumably comparison to the crank & cam position sensors will tell the ECU what cylinders to retard.

 

The figures that you will be reading are the variations from the (new) standard map with a higher octane fuel it will advance beyond the datum figure, with a lower octane fuel when knock is detected it will retard, you should not confuse the + & - timing figures with BTDC figures, your BTDC timing will be increasing as the revs increase up to a maximum at a certain RPM by the (new) standard map with it being advanced or retarded from the datum figure in response to the output of the knock sensor.

Your whole exhaust system will be full of oil, it can take months of high speed driving for the last vestiges to be burnt away from where it will have collected in the silencer boxes.

 

I would expect the catastrophic convertor to be in a right two and eight.

Edited by J.R.

  • Author
21 hours ago, J.R. said:

The timing will be retarded in response to the signals from the knock sensor & presumably comparison to the crank & cam position sensors will tell the ECU what cylinders to retard.

 

The figures that you will be reading are the variations from the (new) standard map with a higher octane fuel it will advance beyond the datum figure, with a lower octane fuel when knock is detected it will retard, you should not confuse the + & - timing figures with BTDC figures, your BTDC timing will be increasing as the revs increase up to a maximum at a certain RPM by the (new) standard map with it being advanced or retarded from the datum figure in response to the output of the knock sensor.

 

ah right, that sounds about right. 

Does the ECU have two maps, one for each fuel, or does the ECU just look at the base timing figure and increment that by X amount depending on the fuel quality? 

Either way, I guess I need to get the car back on the dyno at some point and have it optimised for 98/99 ron.

7 minutes ago, TheBinarySheep said:

 

ah right, that sounds about right. 

Does the ECU have two maps, one for each fuel, or does the ECU just look at the base timing figure and increment that by X amount depending on the fuel quality? 

Either way, I guess I need to get the car back on the dyno at some point and have it optimised for 98/99 ron.

The ECU is smart enough to know whether you fill with 95,97,98,99 or 102 octane if in Europe and adjusts the fuel/air mixture to prevent knocking. This is regardless of whether you have a stage 1,2 or 3 map on it.

The ECU does not know what fuel you put in, it does not measure it, it has a 3 (or more) dimensional look up table for ignition advance where the ambient temperature, engine temperature, engine revs, throttle position & many other measured variables will dictate what ignition advance it will apply based on the highest octane fuel it is rated for, as soon as knock is detected on an individual or multiple cylinders the timing will be retarded enough to prevent it.

 

It adjusts the ignition timing and not the air/fuel ratio to prevent pre-ignition or detonation.

 

The ECU does not adjust the fuel/air mixture according to what fuel the vehicle is consuming, I repeat it does not know, the A/F ratio is derived from a closed loop system to create a Lambda 1.0 output from the O2 (= Lambda) sensor which equates to the stoichiometric ratio, the A/F mixture is constantly being varied according to the output of the lambda sensor trying to stabilise the output to 1.0 volts.

Edited by J.R.

Create an account or sign in to comment

Recently Browsing 0

  • No registered users viewing this page.

Important Information

Welcome to BRISKODA. Please note the following important links Terms of Use. We have a comprehensive Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Account

Navigation

Configure browser push notifications

Chrome (Android)
  1. Tap the lock icon next to the address bar.
  2. Tap Permissions → Notifications.
  3. Adjust your preference.
Chrome (Desktop)
  1. Click the padlock icon in the address bar.
  2. Select Site settings.
  3. Find Notifications and adjust your preference.