After 3 years of my 3min drive to the supermarket, neither of my Kodiaq diesels have had a clogged DPF. It’s perfectly fine as long as you drive at 80+kph roads for maybe 10mins on a fairly regular basis.

 

Urban driving I average between 7.5-9l/100km, with a DPF regen only making a tangible difference when idle going by the live consumption meter. 

My experience is that dpf burning works very well even in short trips. During covid lockdown my work journeys dropped all off and it can be week or two I drive only short 5 - 30km trips per day. No problems at all and weather here is much colder than in sydney, under 0 degrees for weeks now. Go for it, it will work without issues.

have a diesel RS here in nz. hardly venture out of 60 kmh suburbia. 2 DPF warnings in 40,000 km. easily cleared by a 10 min motorway blast with DSG in S. longer term, who knows. would choose the Sportline for refinement. fuel economy inconsequential as the RS diesel isn't particularly frugal

@chrisluciofg only twice in 25,000 miles is good.

Obviously as time goes on if your use is much as now they will possibly become more frequent and the km/miles / time you need to give it that wee blast increases. 

Just now, e-Roottoot said:

@chrisluciofg only twice in 25,000 miles is good.

Obviously as time goes on if your use is much as now they will possibly become more frequent and the km/miles / time you need to give it that wee blast increases. 

 

you're implying that over time, soot burn-off becomes more incomplete (filter clog) ?

Indeed i am, but not implying.  Just saying that is how it will be.

4 hours ago, e-Roottoot said:

@chrisluciofg only twice in 25,000 miles is good.

Obviously as time goes on if your use is much as now they will possibly become more frequent and the km/miles / time you need to give it that wee blast increases. 

Makes me wonder why he got the RS and not the Sportline petrol. Plus with a petrol, he could straight-pipe the exhaust then stop complaining about his 7 row diesel SUV not having enough 'bark'

11 hours ago, Tim123 said:

what is considered a "long" drive?

twice a week 100 miles 

12 hours ago, Scot5 said:

 

Will it be a new car or used car? How long do you intend to keep the car for? And if used how old is it and what's the mileage?

I will get a new car and intend to keep the car for 5-10 years (so something reliable) .

I do similar driving with my 190tdi. No DPF issues at all. 3 years in. Last Skoda diesel was sold with 120k on the clock following similar driving too. Again never had DPF issues. My vehicles are keepers. 

On 04/01/2021 at 00:29, Tim123 said:

I will get a new car and intend to keep the car for 5-10 years (so something reliable) .

 

DPF issues won't be a problem then. My tuppence worth is that if I were keeping it 10years, I'd be more concerned about potential more costly repairs to a biturbo.

what do you think are the thing that would make the rs more expensive to repair?

Sheer complexity of the biturbodiesel compared to a lower output turbopetrol I would assume.  

15 hours ago, ZacDaMan72 said:

Sheer complexity of the biturbodiesel compared to a lower output turbopetrol I would assume.  

 

Exactly. Even if someone isn't mechanically minded, one clue is that the battery in the vRS is located in the boot because there was no space under the bonnet.

 

The bi in biturbo and Skoda advertising it as their first biturbo car ( and very likely to be their only biturbo car ) could spell trouble ahead in the longterm. As has been said elsewhere it's already out of production elsewhere in the world so in 10 years time it could prove to be a headache. 4cyl Biturbo diesels in other VW products not that popular either. All I'm saying is if it were me then 2.0tsi is tried and tested and very popular hence an easier fix if things go wrong in the long-term.

 

Hope that helps.

Edited 5 January, 20215 yr by Guest

3 hours ago, Scot5 said:

The bi in biturbo and Skoda advertising it as their first biturbo car ( and very likely to be their only biturbo car ) could spell trouble ahead in the longterm

I doubt that sheer technician ineptitude would be the problem, if that's what you're implying. The exact engine derivative has been in the Tiguan and Passat for longer, and if the dealer situation is like here in NZ and Australia, a local Skoda dealership would be able to call their sister VW dealership if all goes wrong. Shouldn't happen though, as the erWin (Electronic Repair and Workshop Information) service is the same for all Volkswagen Group brands, so a Skoda tech should be as educated about the engine as a VW tech. I would say that the BiTDI is 'tried and tested' enough, having been used in plenty of Volkswagen and Volkswagen Commercial vehicles, however I agree that they aren't nearly as common as the turbopetrol units.

 

If @Tim123 goes with dealership or specialist servicing, I wouldn't worry that much about aftersales, however, I'd recommend an aftermarket mechanical breakdown insurance policy once the warranty ends.

Edited 6 January, 20215 yr by ZacDaMan72

On 04/01/2021 at 12:39, ZacDaMan72 said:

Makes me wonder why he got the RS and not the Sportline petrol. Plus with a petrol, he could straight-pipe the exhaust then stop complaining about his 7 row diesel SUV not having enough 'bark'

 

because the price of high-octane fuel in nz is a rip-off. would only consider cars using 91 or diesel here. PHEVs excepted

Imagine buying a $73k car then complaining about the cost of premium petrol 

On 06/01/2021 at 00:37, ZacDaMan72 said:

I doubt that sheer technician ineptitude would be the problem, if that's what you're implying. The exact engine derivative has been in the Tiguan and Passat for longer, and...

 

VW have made some great engines, they've also made some real duffers. Remember the 1.4tsi twincharger? That engine won design awards etc. And then sometime later they found out the engine had issues, so much so that even some VW Group dealers wouldn't accept them as part exchange due to the complexity hence cost of repair.

 

The choice the OP makes is between the very common tried and tested 2.0TSI or the 4cyl BiTurbo diesel which is quite rare in the VW empire. Nobody can predict the future but if the goal is reliability for the next 10year then it's not technical ineptitude that's the problem, it may well be the cost of repair if something goes wrong. 

Edited 7 January, 20215 yr by Guest

Pretty consistent compared to others Tim. I have a VRs Kodiaq also.

I live in Queenstown so coldish here in winter and I only drive 10kms to work each day during the week. Car is easily fully warmed up i.e. at half way mark on temp gauge, by half way to work and regens whenever it needs to i.e. the outside temp makes no difference on mine. Interesting enough the heater works within the first km from the house as well but I park the car in the garage and Vrs has seat/steering wheel heaters so don't really notice.

No DPF error lights in 18,000kms and it regens (based on observing standing still higher revs), about once a week on average. If not completed it just trys again next time.

Fuel economy for me is 8.5L/100kms in winter as I ski and I drive up 1300m vertical roads over 14 kms a few times a week and has racks etc. on top 

Currently in summer without that aspect it is averaging mid 7s.

6 hours ago, snala said:

Interesting enough the heater works within the first km from the house

 

It has a ceramic electrical heater down in the vent piping. Works flawlessly even at -20 C, taking about 5 minutes to heat the cabin up enough.

On 11/01/2021 at 02:53, snala said:

I park the car in the garage

You park the csr in the garage, so your car isn’t so affected by outside temperatures. My car lives outside, so on a cold UK morning is the same temperature as the outside temperature. On my 10 mile fast A road commute (16km), the oil temperature, which is the temperature that really matters for engine longevity and better oil life, only just reaches operating temperature by the end of the journey. If you were doing a shorter commute or driving slower roads I suspect the oil would not reach operating temperature. 

4 hours ago, MrTrilby said:

I suspect the oil would not reach operating temperature. 

 This is a place for dispute again. Around 100 C is the temperature when oil reaches it`s maxium but at which temperature does it reach to it`s working consistency? It might be very well about 50 - 60 C for 0w30. Just a guess.

The Internal Engine oils we are talking about efficient operating temp is in the 90's*oC. Oil is a Coolant as well as a lubricant.

 

Which is why the Coolant System so the / Anti Freeze / Summer Coolant / Rust Inhibitor is got to around 90*oC and kept there with the radiator and fans so that when the Oil temp goes into the low 100's*oC it gets brought back down by the coolant system.

 

The Engines in Europe and other world regions where the WLTP might apply are coming from VW Group factories with VW508 / 509, so 0w 20 FS IV. 

As I said, it was just a guess.

During Soviet times they never shut the construction machines off during wintertime in the Far East in Siberia because at -40 c there was no chance they could start up the bulldozer engine when the engine oil cools down. Fuel was cheap then.

@linniWhen i had a Jupiter 5 Sidecar outfit, (basically a Jawa 350)  it came with a translated to English Owners / Operators manual and extra parts including carb jets for using in very low temperatures.

It had a table showing the correct mix to use at different temps of Generator Oil / Transformer oil and aviation fuel.

 

What amazed me was that the USSR could not produce round ball bearings.

 

It was brilliant in a Scottish winter, sadly it went on fire one fine summers day.  Likely an issue with the Oil filler air filter tray and me never having changed what was in there.

 

It was very much like this.

Started dead easily at low temps.

 

 

 

 

Edited 13 January, 20215 yr by e-Roottoot