If you were of my generation you would never jack a car on the sills unless there was absolutely no other option, the sickening crunch and shower of flakey crusty oxidised crud that was once called metal remains with you for life.

 

Every VAG car I have owned has already had the sill bottoms destroyed by trolley jacks with the seams split, rolled over & rusting before I got my hands on it, even a slotted rubber puck does not protect unless it has been machined with a stepped surface.

 

But there is no real choice for the jack if you want to also use an axle stand.

5 hours ago, DSL said:

As above, it’s designed for that.  But a good point above, if using the sill hard point to jack up the car, where can you put an axle stand as a backup?  I usually jack the corner up then partly let it down on an axle stand before fiddling, not sure I’d manage that on the Karoq short of jacking up using the wishbone then putting the stand under the hard point.  

Axle stand under a main suspension bar or sub-frame. Always.

 

In the olden days there was a chassis of course. Now it’s all just soft tin under there.

 

So you can normally rely on the main suspension structure or cross member to safely use an “axle stand”.

 

Sometimes under the main vertical strut at the front. 

 

It’s all pretty obvious once you get underneath.

 

Or Phone A Friend. Not something to practice on Willy-Nilly. If you don’t know what you’re doing then step away from the jack. 

Edited 27 February, 20215 yr by BoxerBoy

Re phone a friend, I read that as get my arras down to my local garage and get them to do it, which in reality is prob what I’ll do.  SWMBO’s been telling me to do that for years.    I had no fear putting a 3t Disco up on the jack to regularly change tyres, but a bit nervous with the Karoq.  Also it’s wheel bolts so no studs to slide the wheel on, all getting a bit complicated.

I didn’t mean go to a garage necessarily, but seek advice. For novices.

 

But I don’t think you need any advice on the basics if you’ve handled Disco wheel changing.

 

The change from studs to bolts can be difficult in some instances, but I find the Skoda wheels snug onto the hub quite happily and allow the wheel to turn for bolt hole alignment. Jack up to the minimum necessary height to slip the wheel off/on without having to lift the wheel at all. An inch of ground clearance doesn’t help.

 

Or do what I do with my bike rear wheel - cut the head off a long stud and let that carry the wheel when mounting.  Easy peasy.

You can buy a guide stud on eBay or similar. Makes it much easier to change the wheel. Take first bolt out near top and screw stud in finger tight. This then supports the wheel until all the other bolts are out safely. Slide wheel off stud and replace new wheel in reverse.

Only £6 or so and makes it so much quicker and safer.

I was dismissive of those studs but bought a pair so that I could give one to a neighbour who does a lot for me and keep the other for the box, which is what I really wanted to keep the locking wheelnut adaptor & the bolt cover removal tools all together and easily identifiable.

 

Having used it I begrudgingly admit that it does make things considerably easier, removing 2 difficulties that I had:

 

The winter wheels having a larger central bore were difficult to align.

 

With my bad eyesight and looking level through the bolt holes for the tapped holes I would often mistake the blind holes in the hub carrier on the same pitch for the threaded ones.

 

My apologies for telling Sticky Mickey that I had no need of one.

 

The problem that I now have is getting the wheel onto the projecting pin, I would like it to be much shorter and to protrude only as far as needed for my fingers to grip the knurling, at present I have to bend over to place the wheel, I would prefer to be in my normal posture of sitting and lifting it with my shins.

29 minutes ago, J.R. said:

The winter wheels having a larger central bore were difficult to align.

Don't you use spigot rings?

2 hours ago, kenfowler3966 said:

You can buy a guide stud on eBay or similar. Makes it much easier to change the wheel. Take first bolt out near top and screw stud in finger tight. This then supports the wheel until all the other bolts are out safely. Slide wheel off stud and replace new wheel in reverse.

Only £6 or so and makes it so much quicker and safer.

Forget I bought one of these! 

1 hour ago, john999boy said:

Don't you use spigot rings?

 

Nope, its only a couple of mm, maybe even a very loose tolerance, wheels locate on, take the weight of the vehicle and transfer the drive through the conical bolt seatings.

 

They are genuine Skoda steel wheels for the Yeti bought from this very forum!

53 minutes ago, J.R. said:

...conical bolt seats...

 

VW group cars use ball (radius) seats, not tapered (conical) seats.

 

Lug nuts (or bolts) will have either flat, tapered (conical), or ball (radius) seats.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheel_sizing

 

Photo of Ball (Radius) Seat Wheel Bolt

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Galaxy-Wheel-Bolt-M14x1-5-Radius-Seat-28mm-Thread-Length/283018069378?hash=item41e5310582%3Ag%3A-6UAAOxy1VlRE7Qw&LH_ItemCondition=3

 

Photo of Tapered (Conical) Wheel Bolt

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-X-M14X1-5-SHORT-HEAD-SPACER-ALLOY-WHEEL-BOLTS-FITS-A3-S3-A4-S4-B7-AVANTI/322352405911?hash=item4b0db35d97%3Ag%3AUAEAAOSwEzxYSCNt&LH_ItemCondition=3

 

Edited 1 March, 20215 yr by Carlston

Thankyou for the correction of terminology, the point being in either case is that the load is taken through the fastenings and not the central bore which has to be a clearance fit.