I am thinking of changing the front ARB on my VRs. I have standard suspension with a 25mm rear ARB (Neuspeed) fitted. I was going to buy the 22mm Neuspeed front ARB but then I found a post on here that listed the part numbers for the R32 front ARB. This is 23mm and seems to be considerably cheaper, what I would like to know is:

Will it be as effective?

Is it any easier/harder to fit?

Can anyone give me a step by step guide to the removal of the existing ARB and the fitting of the new?

I believe the front subframe has to be dropped and the steering column needs to be loosened.

Any advice gratefully received

Cheers

Brian

What is the part no. of the R32 ARB

Need to change mine cause i need to:confused:

Thanks

This was what I found on a previous post.

Just checked the front Anti-roll bar on my 03 Octy vRS, bar diameter is 18mm, I believe that the best upgrade for the front is to put on the R32 bar which is 23 mm ( there are 3 so the part number that you want for the vRS is 1JO 411 305 AF -

What work is involved in fitting an R32 front arb?

Can't believe no-one can help with this, surely someone has carried out this mod?

I believe the front ARB requires dropping of the rear subframe and steering rack for clearance. There are posts on this already somewhere...

Haven't done this myself but I'm lead to believe it's not an easy job.....you have to drop the front sub frame, which then will require you to have the alignment done...to be on the safe side.

Try this for a start:

http://www.briskoda.net/forums/octavia/anti-roll-bar-upgrade/52880/

If mine needs replacing anyway and it's not done undr warranty, it may have to be a DIY job....

Sheaf thanks for the link but I already posted on that thread. What I am trying to find out is how to change my front ARB for a Golf R32 ARB. If I buy the VW parts to do this I will get no fitting instructions but it will be much cheaper than the Neuspeed front ARB, the Neuspeed does however come with fitting instructions. What I am hoping is that someone can describe the operation so I can use the Golf ARB.

Thanks

Brian

It's a good 2 hour job for front ARB, easier with ramps for topics mentioned above.

I have the neuspeed front and rear, rear is a diy or additional 20 quid and hassle free.

on std RS setup, well they transform the car again...well worth doing if you enjoy flat cornering, just raise the tyre budget a bit

So, as keeps being asked:

"How do you change the front ARB?"

Could somebody cut n' paste the instructions from a VAG manual?

Well, surely it's just a case of unbolting the old one, and bolting on the new one...

The only problem comes with getting them both out/in.. so you just remove anything in the way. I'd have thought it'd be pretty self explanatory if you look under the car?

By the sounds of it you need to just drop the subframe and steering rack, so if you're competant with your tools it wont be a problem.

I'd personally have it up on axel stands with the wheels off btw, not on ramps.. I'd have thought it'd be easier if the weight is off the wheels otherwise you'll get a shock when you unbolt the ARB.

Cheers, I've not had chance to look under the car as it has rained whenever I've intended to....

I'm sure it wouldn't be that difficult, but any hints gained from experience are always useful!

the rear one seems the way to start anyway. I'll need to consult the insurance company again first though....

Perhaps you should post in Ask-A-Tech. I know the resident techie has done a few in his time

Cheers' date=' I've not had chance to look under the car as it has rained whenever I've intended to....

I'm sure it wouldn't be that difficult, but any hints gained from experience are always useful!

the rear one seems the way to start anyway. I'll need to consult the insurance company again first though....[/quote']

Good luck with the insurance, my old company got confused when telling them about things which aren't 'lowering' or 'exhaust'. When I told them about a my strut brace they were most baffled... and then told me I wasn't allowed to have it :eek:

Hence I changed companies...

Cant you just claim it's an OE part and therefore not a 'mod'.... if it's all VAG parts then it's standard right?

thats what id go with

Good luck with the insurance, my old company got confused when telling them about things which aren't 'lowering' or 'exhaust'.

If I tell them that it doesn't stiffen the suspension and doesn't lower it the person on the phone won't have a clue what I'm on about -But, in the event of a serious 'claim' a vehicle inspector could...

Cant you just claim it's an OE part and therefore not a 'mod'.... if it's all VAG parts then it's standard right?

I'm not sure if fitting an RS6 engine would pass that test....

A rear ARB would be obvious to anyone who knew what a normal rear suspension looked like. The front? well...

My squeek's getting worse....

So' date=' as keeps being asked:

"How do you change the front ARB?"

Could somebody cut n' paste the instructions from a VAG manual?[/quote']

Support the car on stands. support the engine and take off the dog bone mount. Remove the front subframe bolts, leaving the rear bolts alone. You can now pull the subframe down as the rear is on rubber bushes. Undo all rollbar mounts and slide it out whilst pulling the front subframe down. You'll need new subframe bolts as they are stretch. The torque is 100 nm plus 1/4 of a turn if I can remember. Refit your new bar the reverse and don't forget r32 roll bar bushes.

Too be honest you'll get better performance from upgrading your suspension to say kw II and keeping your standard bar. Big front bars are ok in the dry, but rubbish in the wet. proper understeer. Traction on uneven roads suffers too, as the front suspension is less indepependant. The traction light flashes like a disco

That's an excellent post, thanks very much:thumbup: .

As I've said, an improved rear would be the thing to do, but if the front one is knackered I may need to change it. As long as I can borrow a garage, DIY doesn't sound *too* bad...

Thanks for that but I have ended up ordering the Neuspeed one from Awesome GTi (15% off at the moment). Can you tell me how many bolts I need to replace?

Thanks again

Having no Haynes manual is a pain in the backside......

The front? well...

That was my thinking.... What's 5mm between friends?

The back one would be best off declaring as it's obvious if an inspector knows it's not supposed to be there.