No. But you do need access under whilst you are doing it.

 

And a cardboard box and container for all the bits removed! You can close the bonnet especially if you remove the IM out of the way to the cardboard box. 

Cool I'll be prepared with all that.

 

Can't find an IM gasket on ECP or GSF, guess its a VAG dealer only part.

I bought a ELRING Intake Manifold Seal Gasket 655.840 on ebay. But you could get genuine vw. 

9 hours ago, BristolBikerMan said:

Cool I'll be prepared with all that.

 

Can't find an IM gasket on ECP or GSF, guess its a VAG dealer only part.

I got all the seals I need from TPS - original VAG parts. I would suggest you get the seal for the throttle body as well and replace it - give the TB a clean as well while you're at it.

You will need someone that has a trading account though, as TPS don't deal with private customers. Or you could call a dealership I guess but will end up paying a bit more.

 

Kind of the same issue on my car, but I caught it early as I've noticed a different engine sound (light metallic knocking sound). My mechanic said it's most likely an injector after listening to it, so I've sent a set out (from a different engine) to R Tech to get them cleaned, tested and resealed the other day - hoping they'll be back early next week (£120/set of 4 + shipping back and forth).

My concern was that the radial balancing elements might break when I take the injectors out - this is more than likely if you have the plastic version - so I ordered new ones. Could not find them anywhere apart from TPS (apart from eBay being delivered from China (?!) in about 3 weeks).  These only come as part of a complete injector seal set (balancing element, Teflon gasket ring, supporting washer, rubber O-ring and the metal supporting ring) which was about £18.00 for each set/injector from TPS.  The good thing is that the balancing elements I received are a revised version and are metallic - not that I'd be looking forward to do this again anytime soon.  

 

About the job itself - I've gone through the workshop manual and quite a few tutorials online - I am not a skilled mechanic I must admit - and there are a few things you need to be careful with. I found a very useful video on YouTube (see below and pay attention to disconnecting the fuel pump pipe!) and a lot of details in the workshop manual - specific torque for each screw, nut, bolt, etc.

 

You should take your time doing this and make sure you have everything you need ready to one side.

Also, I would not recommend that you leave the car with the IM off for days, this is why I did not send my own injectors out. Condensation can creep up and cause more harm in the future (mechanic's very strong advice). 

The original manufacturer injectors (which are Bosch) are around £180 each from TPS (not even sure if that was VAT included) so I've gone with the cost saving measure which saved me £600 more or less.

 

Engine oil + filter MUST be replaced, especially if the injector was stuck open as it would have heavily contaminated your oil - this will change the oil's properties and other issues can arise, especially if you're giddy on the loud pedal at times. Again, my car did not show any symptoms at all (full power, no misfire, etc) apart from the slightly different engine noise but I can smell petrol in the oil on the dipstick even though there's no noticeable level increase. 

 

Hope I was able to help and I'll come back to you guys once I've sorted mine out - booked it in for next Saturday on the 18th.

 

I broke one leg off the plastic stand on one injector. I reused. I also broke a locating nipple on the intake port separators, be careful separating those. I also reused as the IM gasket has quite a few locating nipples.

 

Yes, I cleaned the throttle body as well and a new gasket. The full VW injector seal kit is relatively expensive when you need 4.  When I had my 4 injectors cleaned and tested they replaced the seals anyway. But not the other seal pack components.

 

As for leaving the IM off for a day or two or three, I really wouldn't worry. If you're the worrying type - seal of the fuel lines and plug the head intake ports with rags or plastic bags as well as the throttle body intake tract.  The latter to stop anything falling into it like a tool or a screw or a bolt.  That is the only precaution I did and I had it disassembled for a week.

Pretty coked up and a little wet with oil 

 

There was a significant amount of oil in the inlet pipe to the throttle body.

 

Going to clean the valves up today, but a little concerned about the oil.

Is it only he faulty injector ports that look like that? Wet? Cylinder 4?  I suppose fuel may have soaked in and around the cylinder? And leached to the intake port? 

I think I knee jerked a little with it being wet.

 

Ultimately its burning an in spec amount of oil.

 

I've watched some vids, and oil in the intake is very normal on these.

 

As long as you aren't burning loads of it and you aren't smoking, should be ok.

 

That inlet is not number 4 (the stuck open one). They all looked similar, big canon build up.

 

They are all much cleaner now and ready for the injectors to be replaced.

 

I dropped the oil too, and it's not significantly contaminated. Flushed a litre of fresh through to get any left in the sump.

 

Injectors arrive Tuesday, so hopefully can rebuild one night. Got new oil and filter too obviously.

 

Now with all new injectors, coils and a new plug on #4 we should be good for another 60k.

12 hours ago, BristolBikerMan said:

I think I knee jerked a little with it being wet.

 

Ultimately its burning an in spec amount of oil.

 

I've watched some vids, and oil in the intake is very normal on these.

 

 

You may have a PCV failure or not operating correctly.  Mine were gummed up as are yours.  Not as clearly as "wet" though as yours seem to be, unless it is the photos.  Especially on the port separators and valves themselves, it was kind of a dry crusty surface with gummy consistency underneath!

 

How much oil are you using?

 

 

 

 

Edited 12 April, 20215 yr by TheClient

Nah, not the photos. Mine all looked significantly wetter/slicker than yours. 

 

Using about 1L in 1000 miles, but think its been getting worse recently, tricky to say.

 

Anything it could be besides the PCV, and how to test it? The hose coming off the PCV to the inlet manifold wasn't particularly oily, but the intake pipe from the turbo to the TB was very oily. I hope this isn't a sign of turbo failure!!

Also, not getting any codes to suggest the PCV is failing, or any codes at all until the injector failed...

1 hour ago, BristolBikerMan said:

Also, not getting any codes to suggest the PCV is failing, or any codes at all until the injector failed...

Mine required 400ml oil top up in 800 miles as soon as I've refitted the PCV (brand new revised part+seal). It didn't need a single drop before that while it had the PCV delete kit on for 2k miles. I would suggest deleting the PCV as it eliminates your oil consumption, carbon build up, etc. Just got a new PCV delete kit from Forge which is going on it this Saturday along with their blowoff+DV kit (vacuum operated).

 

It will be interesting to see what I find when I take mine apart - it has a 30k miles engine in it.

Got a link to the part from forge?

 

What did you do with the new PCV and is it genuine?

I've had a look and there isn't a blank off kit for the CCZA. You have a different engine to mine.

25 minutes ago, BristolBikerMan said:

I've had a look and there isn't a blank off kit for the CCZA. You have a different engine to mine.

PCV delete kit link below. Would recommend buying from Forge directly for peace of mind (see warranty).

https://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/product-filter/product-category,deletes/skoda,octavia+>+2.0+fsit

 

I have the BWA engine code but PCV is identical as far as I know. You can get in touch with Forge and ask if this fits yours to make sure - you can fit this anytime after you've done the injectors job.

 

The PCV I have on mine (still on it until Saturday) is the exact same part my mechanic received for a 08 plate A4 quattro 2.0 Tfsi (which I believe was a CCZA engine code but not 100% sure). He compared them out of curiosity as he ordered them separately.

 

 

 

I have researched it on Google and this forum, and have been categorically told it won't fit, and requires a catch can instead.

 

Maybe the CCZA cannot handle not having the delete kit and throws a code or something.

 

Regarding the PCV, is it a genuine VAG one? And if so how much was it? I don't believe the 2.0TFSI will be a CCZA, as CCZA is 2.0 TSI not T F SI.

Spoke to Skoda, just over £100 for a PCV valve. Need to test mine though as I don't have any codes as I already said...

I would replace the PCV or more correctly the PCV / fine oil separator, which is what the part is.

 

Yes, they are expensive, but I am not aware of a generic aftermarket part that works well or to spec and it is not the same in any way as the BWA EA113 pcv.  Does your intake pipe look oily around the entry to the turbo where the flexible connection is? Or underneath around diverter or running underneath the turbo. Mine had those symptoms when I got it, I tried a few things but in the end a new fine oil separator fixed it.   The most likely place it is entering will be the PCV. 

 

I'd try to get the bottom of it, as that is not an edit: (in)significant amount of oil.

 

 

Edited 12 April, 20215 yr by TheClient

50 minutes ago, TheClient said:

I would replace the PCV or more correctly the PCV / fine oil separator, which is what the part is.

 

Yes, they are expensive, but I am not aware of a generic aftermarket part that works well or to spec and it is not the same in any way as the BWA EA113 pcv.  Does your intake pipe look oily around the entry to the turbo where the flexible connection is? Or underneath around diverter or running underneath the turbo. Mine had those symptoms when I got it, I tried a few things but in the end a new fine oil separator fixed it.   The most likely place it is entering will be the PCV. 

 

I'd try to get the bottom of it, as that is not an edit: (in)significant amount of oil.

 

 

Checked the valve visually. It's by A&W, some aftermarket crap.

 

https://ibb.co/0DsMwPq

https://ibb.co/xFptJfh

 

Put my finger in the exit to intake manifold a pictured, not a trace of oil there??

1 hour ago, BristolBikerMan said:

Spoke to Skoda, just over £100 for a PCV valve. Need to test mine though as I don't have any codes as I already said...

That sounds about right - I paid about £90+ for mine including the seal. With mine being an older version it makes sense I guess.

 

Funny about the PCV blanking plate as I spoke to Forge after I posted earlier and they said that it would fit a CCZA engine. But I do trust this forum more than a random guy at the other end of the phone + he did not sound that confident either come to think about it.

 

PCV failure would not give a code on mine - loss of power and rough idle (I think a high idling rpm as well) would be the sign that it failed. 

 

I would not take any chances with random aftermarket parts - it took me weeks and weeks to locate an issue (variating idle speed) which was caused by a stupid aftermarket blow-off valve - hence the purchase of a complete DV+blowoff  from Forge,. This was the reason I've taken the PCV blanking plate off and reinstalled a new PCV while I was troubleshooting with my mechanic,  so I thought it's best I go with original parts or a proper performance parts manufacturer from now on.

What confuses me is there is no oil in the PCV to IM tube.

44 minutes ago, BristolBikerMan said:

What confuses me is there is no oil in the PCV to IM tube.

Showed your pics of the IM to my mechanic and he believes that your valve seals are shot. That's where you're losing oil and it's getting burned. He compared your picture to the ones from @TheClient and you can see a shiny bit on the valves in his, meaning the seals are intact. On yours it's all black so he deducted they are done. Unless the pictures are misleading!?

 

Saying that your PCV might be fine but that means that your engine head might need work which is not good as the cost is greater.

Also, my mechanic said that you'd have a vacuum problem given this (PCV would not work as it should) and you should have noticed that your engine is not running smoothly prior to this, even though it'd still have pull (while burning oil).

 

 

Not sure I can agree given the amount of oil in the inlet manifold itself and around the injectors I'd think it's coming from the intake.

 

Also the compression test was spot on. It's also not excessively smoky.

Also looking closely at all m pictures I can see a little shiny bit at the top of each valve with no carbon.

 

I'm highly suspicious of my PCV, the fact I've been idling on 3 cylinders intermittently, the fact the idle doesn't return quickly when blipping smooth running engine. The fact it's $10.