Had our Yeti (1.4 AWD) for just over 3 years, and despite giving the battery a top up charge every so often, it appears to be failing. From "new" the battery never seemed to get much over 12v (multimeter check), and was regularly seen around 11.5 volts but it never failed to start?

 

I had heard stories that a new battery would have to be "programed" to the car, (ours has the rather pointless Stop / Start system fitted), and had I had seen some eye watering costs of £250, from main dealers for the privilege.

 

Although disappointing that I needed to fit a new battery after a (relatively) short time, I have gone ahead and got our local indy dealer to fit a new one. A "standard" Yeti battery is around the £70, for the S/S version they charged £140 which I am happy with, (although would rather no S/S and a cheaper battery option!).

 

It took them about 5 mins to fit, with no reprogramming necessary, just unbolt and re-fit. Interestingly the S/S system which had hardly ever worked from when I had the car started to work as soon as I got to the first junction. (I will now have to remember to switch the damn thing off when I get into the car!).

 

For some reason, after about 15 miles and almost home most of the "yellow" warning lights lit up, with a few "text" warnings on the MFD display? (Light symbol, tyre warning stability control and maybe a couple of others I can't remember)

 

When I arrived home I turned everything off, checked the tyre pressures (just in case.....they were al fine), and then popped out for another short run when all the lights went out?

 

Just wonder if there is any reason for this or is it just the system "sorting itself out"? (I would have expected it to be a problem from the "off", rather than suddenly appearing after a good run?)

 

 

I had to disconnect the battery on our Yeti to replace the heated windscreen  relay and lots of lights did appear and then just sorted themselves out after a short time. I asked on here about the consequences of disconnecting and was told to expect it. 

Ta for the reply. I expected a lot of lights on start up, but was surprised that initially there were no lights except as just the tyre pressure light which did go out after about a mile.

But then they all came on after I had driven about 15 miles? Anyway, I will try another drive today and see if they remain off.

1 hour ago, Stubod said:

surprised that initially there were no lights except as just the tyre pressure light which did go out after about a mile.

Did you not reset it before you started off?

Hi, and yes I did reset it, but garage advised it would need a short drive before it went off, which it did initially but then came back on around 15 miles when all the all the other lights also came on?

 

Got home and turned the engine off. waited then re-started and they had all gone off again, not yet been out today but I will check to see if they are still off later.

Reading your first post you say they didn't program the car with the new battery. I'd be having that done personally. Changed my Yeti battery yesterday, programming takes a couple of minutes. 

13 minutes ago, Rustynuts said:

Reading your first post you say they didn't program the car with the new battery. I'd be having that done personally. Changed my Yeti battery yesterday, programming takes a couple of minutes. 

Morning Rustynuts, what was involved with the reprogramming, who did it and at what cost? 

 

I must admit I always find this type of thing a bit suspect .... (manufacturers milking it a bit) but if there is a good reason then fairy doos!

Hi Truckbus, if the new battery isn't coded into the system, any fault in the old battery that the system was allowing-for will be assumed to still be present - coding in, at least, a different serial number for the battery tells the charging system to accept the change and adopt the correct profile for a good battery.  

24 minutes ago, TruckbusUK said:

Morning Rustynuts, what was involved with the reprogramming, who did it and at what cost? 

 

I must admit I always find this type of thing a bit suspect .... (manufacturers milking it a bit) but if there is a good reason then fairy doos!

I did it myself with VCDS. The procedure is simply changing the serial number of the existing battery data by one number so the system knows the battery has been changed (provided the new battery is to the same spec as the old one).

As long as the replacement battery is the same or very near the capacity of the original and is fully charged before fitting it can be replaced without coding.
It is now getting about that the coding was just to prove to Skoda that the original battery is still fitted for any claims under warranty.
Tayna batteries now no longer sell any batteries with the BEM coding on them.

Ta for the replies. took the car out yesterday for about 15 miles and no warning lights came on. Due another run out tomorow..

Took the car out again today, journey out fine, journey back all the lights came on again after about 12 miles. Stopped and re-started and all was well for about 2 miles then they all came back on again. Stopped and re-started and they have all gone out again.

Will be taking it back for a "plug in" check next time we are passing the garage.

 

Interestingly since the battery change the Stop/Start has been working from the off, so I think the original dealer sold it with a "slightly" duff battery as for the last 3 years the only time the S/S has ever worked has been after a long (70+mile) journey).

Started the car, and no warning lights showing, drop into local Indy for a check with OBD reader, no faults showing. Drive for 20+ miles and some warning lights come on. Stop for a minute and turn engine off / on twice and the lights go out.

 

I am sure it happens (ie warning lights come on) when the battery reaches a certain voltage?

 

Any suggestions / solutions gratefully received?

 

 

..looks like it might be a wheel sensor?....just coincidence that it failed just after the battery was changed?

For the last few days the alerts have been on every time I start the car. (They had been going off once the car had been "stopped for a while). 

 

However, I had the wheel sensor replaced today and so far no dash light alerts...keeping fingers crossed!

Edited 26 May, 20215 yr by Stubod

Why don't you scan it 1st thing then, while the light is still up ?

I thought codes stored afterwards too but maybe not.