Just now, VAGProf said:

 

Show me a picture of the spanner you are using, never seen one that can touch the bodywork from where the battery is located! :-D

Two possibilities:

1. It's a conspiracy by Snap-on and the other members of "Big Spanners" (aka Massive tools) to sell more spanners to the unwary OR
2. It's good practice to disconnect the negative terminal first. The benefits of doing either because "It's probably ok this time" are probably not worth learning bad habits.

Disconnect the positive terminal first, not the negative.     KIA say the opposite way.

Edited 28 May, 20215 yr by e-Roottoot

1 minute ago, fox2319 said:

Two possibilities:

1. It's a conspiracy by Snap-on and the other members of "Big Spanners" (aka Massive tools) to sell more spanners to the unwary OR
2. It's good practice to disconnect the negative terminal first. The benefits of doing either because "It's probably ok this time" are probably not worth learning bad habits.

We are here on the Ocatavia mk4 forum, the battery will be disconnected on this vehicle, So my personal advise on the mk4 is that it is safer and way easier to remove the positive terminal. I can send you a picture if you like to see what I mean, I have 10 of them in front of me. And I can easily show you how it is more dangerous to hit the positive terminal while undoing the negative, call it bad design or unfortunate bolt placement.

 

It is something they have thought the kids in school to always first disconnect the negative, I get that.

But I never did follow those 'basic rules', I can think und judge for myself what is safer to do when I have to disconnect a battery.

In anything electronic you always want to disconnect the positive or live first, leaving the ground or negative connected, so that capacitors can discharge properly, you don't have any voltages floating around in your circuits. The same goes for cars, always positive first and just take care not to ground your wrench.

I prefer to follow the advice of the professional vehicle technicians I worked with at a major automotive consultancy than any internet posts - so for me it will always be negative first (and as a Chartered Electronics Engineer it makes no difference how capacitors discharge when the circuit is broken by disconnecting either battery terminal).

This is why you should take your car to the dealer and not pay attention to anybody on a forum! 

1 hour ago, zetzet said:

In anything electronic you always want to disconnect the positive or live first, leaving the ground or negative connected, so that capacitors can discharge properly, you don't have any voltages floating around in your circuits.

 

I think @Gax does not mean a Drug Dealer but a Skoda or other main Dealership to have a Trained & Qualified Tech to do work.

 

Many do the 2nd one but find out they are better going to someone that does know what they are doing. 

 

 

Just an update to everything...

 

Tried the battery disconnection (won't say which terminal I did to avoid anything kicking off 😃) No difference.

 

Got batted around from original Liverpool Skoda, to London Skoda, to lease company and back to London Skoda.

 

Went in after work. Lovely lady was trying to tell me that I didn't have smartlink because I didn't pay for it and it was an optional extra. So I asked her if Sat nav not working was because it was an optional extra, which piqued her curiosity from the understandable this man's an idiot mindset. 

 

Called a colleague over and they went through the history. It shows all the software fixes are up-to-date but they reckon they've forgotten to put load back all the extras e.g. the map download, the smartlink feature, the ACC cruise control, mode select - the latter three being model specific.

 

Booked in for the following week. Will update when that's been and gone

I've just rejected a MkiV SE because of the many software issues I've had with it. It's spent alomst as long at the dealers as it has on my drive at home.

After having three software updates the cruise control (not adaptive) stopped working. The speed limiter still worked but I could not set CC, I could highlight it, but no mater what I, or the dealer did, could we select it. They re-installed some software and it started working again.

 

However despite all the dealer visits I still get the well known 'Loading driver profile' lock up every now and again. I've had enough of having to pull over to the side of the road to re-boot the infotainment screen just so I can adjust the cabin temperature so i've rejected the car.

Hi all,

 

I am having the same problems but mine came with the tracking out as well. Took delivery of it last week. Mine is a mk4 se FE.

 

I will post some videos as well so you can see.

 

i was totally naive and thought I was buying a brand new car which was going to be reliable.

 

have started the process of rejection but dealer says it’s a long expensive process?? 

25 minutes ago, fabiatdi105 said:

have started the process of rejection but dealer says it’s a long expensive process?? 

If you've only had the car a week then you should get all of your money back. Make sure you tell them in writing and copy the finance company. 

 

It might be expensive for them but you have a right to reject.

50 minutes ago, fox2319 said:

If you've only had the car a week then you should get all of your money back. Make sure you tell them in writing and copy the finance company. 

 

It might be expensive for them but you have a right to reject.

Cars on a pcp finance loan. Luckily I had a zero deposit.

 

sad thing is I really like the car. 
 

Do you guys think they e be able to sort the issues out?

2 minutes ago, fabiatdi105 said:

Cars on a pcp finance loan. Luckily I had a zero deposit.

 

sad thing is I really like the car. 
 

Do you guys think they e be able to sort the issues out?

I've already rejected mine. In the end I felt that they might sort some of the issues out but they probably wouldn't touch anything unless they absolutely had to. This didn't even take into account the issues that have yet to arise.

 

Like you say, it's a nice car. It'll probably be even better when it's finished.

9 minutes ago, fox2319 said:

I've already rejected mine. In the end I felt that they might sort some of the issues out but they probably wouldn't touch anything unless they absolutely had to. This didn't even take into account the issues that have yet to arise.

 

Like you say, it's a nice car. It'll probably be even better when it's finished.

How long did it take to reject it till the car went back to the dealership?

keep thinking they are fobbing me off

2 minutes ago, fabiatdi105 said:

How long did it take to reject it till the car went back to the dealership?

keep thinking they are fobbing me off

A long time but the timer only really starts when you write to them and say that you're rejecting it. From that point, they should respond within 8 weeks or you can get the ombudsman on the case. For me, it took around 6-7 weeks. I just got into a habit of emailing everyone every day and making a proper pest of myself.

19 minutes ago, fox2319 said:

A long time but the timer only really starts when you write to them and say that you're rejecting it. From that point, they should respond within 8 weeks or you can get the ombudsman on the case. For me, it took around 6-7 weeks. I just got into a habit of emailing everyone every day and making a proper pest of myself.

Lol!

 

I thought it maybe over in a week.

 

mine goes into a local dealership to looked at on Tuesday for its faults.

 

my one came with the wheel tracking out as well 

4 hours ago, fabiatdi105 said:

Do you guys think they e be able to sort the issues out?

I hope so!

Had a call from Skoda UK earlier I the week and my main dealer today. There is a scheduled s/ware update due in third week of June and another due five weeks later. One or other or both ought to fix all the problems we’re experiencing - or so I am told.

after reading this topic, damn, seems that reading car manual and common sense is not popular in 2021.

Im on SW 1803 as of today , ive tested her and all seems well . Been here before but hoping its sorted. I have D version of unit built Dec 22 2020. I dont want to jinx but the info screen seems to move a wee bit faster. 

I was updated to 1803 last week.  My car has travel assist and the car still randomly reads road signs in kph, tries to slow when overtaking while using ACC, and then swaps back to mph randomly.  Also, cannot set the headlights to driving on the left in settings.  Mine was built 18 Dec 2020.

Edited 5 June, 20214 yr by Pete

Let me know if your cars are working correctly after the June updates please.

 

I'm now starting the process of choosing my next car and I don't want any software or firmware glitches in my next one (should it be a Mk4 RS).

2 hours ago, Pete said:

I was updated to 1803 last week.  My car has travel assist and the car still randomly reads road signs in kph, tries to slow when overtaking while using ACC, and then swaps back to mph randomly.  Also, cannot set the headlights to driving on the left in settings.  Mine was built 18 Dec 2020.

The ACC overtake prob , i had in my last car a Superb. My Guess and shoot me down if I'm wrong. The cars are mostly built for the right side ie europe roads. So when we over take in the UK we are in the European slow lane and the car thinks that we are under taking.

To counter I hover over the accelerator and press once when the car slows or hesitates. 

2 hours ago, Greezy56 said:

The ACC overtake prob , i had in my last car a Superb. My Guess and shoot me down if I'm wrong. The cars are mostly built for the right side ie europe roads. So when we over take in the UK we are in the European slow lane and the car thinks that we are under taking.

To counter I hover over the accelerator and press once when the car slows or hesitates. 

 

The hire Superb I recently had posed no issues on two (or more) lane carriageways, didn't have any problems as described.

 

Where it did worry me a few times was on single lane roads, if a car was parked with two wheels up on the pavement, the Superb would suddenly focus on that and slam the brakes on. I stopped using the ACC on such roads pretty quick! In mitigation, having read the manual online it does say in some circumstances the ACC may lock onto the wrong thing, and that it is predominantly for motorway use.

 

I've seen this left/right debate elsewhere on this forum, and while I am certainly not going to cast doubt on your own personal experience, I'm sure the consensus is that the vehicle is set correctly by default for the UK and by changing to the alternate option in the menu you are setting it up fot use in Europe.

 

I don't know for sure. I'm still maybe two weeks from taking delivery of my own Superb but will check all this stuff when I get it.

 

My MK4 Octavia didn't have ACC, just standard, but I believe the menus still had an option for changing your driving lane....which I think was to automatically adjust the headlights...? I can't remember 100%, I only seen that when I first got the car last December and thought that will be handy for driving into France this summer, which ain't happening thanks to Covid and that I currently do not own a car !!

@Pete The ACC and Travel Assist fixes are a couple of the things due in the June (3rd week) update, or so I was told by Skoda UK.

 

@TheWanderer I will most certainly be sharing experiences when I get my updated car back - hopefully ones of pure unadulterated joy…