Hi all.

So my r/h track rod end was shot so got a replacement tried to take old one off nut came off half way now just spins.

Ive tried jacking it underneath but it now wont pop back into the hub so I cant tighten it or get it off so car is undrivable really until I can sort this out.

Hopefully im being dumb or one of you guys has a handy trick up your sleeve

Can you not just hacksaw the nut off or use a nut splitter if you have one?

I may be forced to do that but was hoping for an easier way than hacksawing off if possible i do have a nut splitter as well but it kept slipping on me could get no force on it :(

In 45 years of removing recalcitrant ball joints I have never had one that "wont pop back in" by using force, usually a trolley jack, enough to lock the swivel pin enough to remove the nut.

 

Unless you have butchered and destroyed it then it will go back in to its taper, it came out after all and I bet its only moved a mm or so.

 

Not being able to gain access or not having enough lift on the jack to compress the road spring to get the full force is another matter, top swivel joints on wishbone suspension require a different technique but that is not relevant here.

 

One method that can work is if you have a clamp type ball joint splitter, if the throat is large enough then it can be used reversed to clamp up the swivel pin to undo a tight retaining nut.

I will try again with the trolley jack put some wood under it as well as the trolley jack was at full height and it had not popped back in no idea why as ive not butchered it in all honesty but will give it another shot tomorrow then ive still got to get it off the bar after hope thats less troublesome lol :P

 

You should break the threaded joint on the trackrod to the trackrod end before undoing the swivel joint, otherwise you will be trying to undo two non restrained objects free to flop around, with the trackrod in place you need just one spanner and one arm.

 

Too late to say now but before removing the swivel joint nut you should try to tighten it a fraction of  a turn first which will lock the taper if the previous person did not do it up properly, if its rusty on the threads the remove it completely, lubricate and have it running freely before breaking the joint if you intend re-using the joint, in your case not a consideration.

Use the electric spinning wheel of death.

I had to cut one of mine with a grinder when I did mine.

Yes looking like cutting it unfortunately  I don't own a grinder so looking like hacksaw and a fresh pack of blades and arm ache 🙄

A Dremel will split the nut easily enough if you don't have a grinder.

Good point I did not think about my dremel cheers sepulchrave 👍

Managed to lend a grinder so that nuts going brown Town tomorrow thanks for the advice guys 😀

5 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

Use the electric spinning wheel of death.

Also very useful for removing old rear wheel cylinders when the inside   bolt rounds with age . If the joint is that bad, will a pair of Moles ( tightened severely ) stop the internals from rotating ?

I have four angle grinders but everyone should have at least one, a 115mm version with a 1mm cutting disc is perfect.

I'll take one of them so get in quick people, there are only 2 left

 

I could have cut it off with a hacksaw quicker than extricating my grinder from its ammunition box and putting a new disc on it, as quick as typing this posting!!

 

Sepulchrave I bet you have one grinder for cutting discs and another for grinding discs, the other two probably the same but 9" instead of 4.5".

6 hours ago, J.R. said:

I'll take one of them so get in quick people, there are only 2 left

 

I could have cut it off with a hacksaw quicker than extricating my grinder from its ammunition box and putting a new disc on it, as quick as typing this posting!!

 

Sepulchrave I bet you have one grinder for cutting discs and another for grinding discs, the other two probably the same but 9" instead of 4.5".

 

Nearly, the other two are 7" and 9" because 9" are banned from most sites now.

But you're close enough for government work.

Banned for what reason?

 

Does stuff still have to be 110v or has that been relaxed with RCD fuseboards?

3 hours ago, J.R. said:

Banned for what reason?

 

Does stuff still have to be 110v or has that been relaxed with RCD fuseboards?

 

Considered too dangerous.

 

Yes 110V even though it makes no real sense.

On 14/07/2021 at 21:43, sepulchrave said:

I have four angle grinders but everyone should have at least one, a 115mm version with a 1mm cutting disc is perfect.

Quote from "Crok Dundee"- I've got a Donk. I haven't, but I've got a SIL with one( grinder-he could possibly find a Donk in his biker circle), and a neighbour who sorts out trucks with a few. In emergencies ( after being in the car DIY game), I've got a cutting disc which fits in the chuck of my cordless.

8 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

 

Considered too dangerous.

 

Yes 110V even though it makes no real sense.

Yep - it's had to be at least ( below) 110 for a lot of years. But anyone want to try out 110 V AC?

But ,at least, with modern fuse boards, the chances of just more than a tingle are small.

Edited 16 July, 20214 yr by VWD

That grinder really did the trick thanks guys just a quick question my mate called me today he has a fabia mk1 also is about to do his cv joint but is not sure what tool is needed to get the front hub off,drive shaft bolt its not the large nut its the hex/allen key one unsure of size to tell him does anyone know ???

19mm, from memory.

typical I had a 17mm looks like he is buying one lol thanks wino.

Hi all just an update, So did all the suspension work all went back together well bit of a pia holding the shocks up by yourself while you maneuver the hub back into place lol but all done now only issue I seem to have is the front end seems to sit much higher than it used to by like maybe a good 3 inches or so.

When I took the originals off I put a new one against an old one and length was all the same so im at a loss as to why its sitting so high now any thoughts please ???

Did you refit the strut into the hub carrier deep enough? Three inches is far too much extra height.