I have stripped the wires and use spade connectors and that way I have a plethora of temperatures to choose from 

3 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

I have stripped the wires and use spade connectors and that way I have a plethora of temperatures to choose from 

 

Ok, that sounds reasonable enough. I'll also hunt around for a new thermostat since I already have the coolant drained and it could help with the rough idle. Thanks for the help!

How to replace the ignition switch on a Skoda Felicia I and II.

 

 

 

On 30/07/2021 at 02:25, Dogswards said:

 

Ok, that sounds reasonable enough. I'll also hunt around for a new thermostat since I already have the coolant drained and it could help with the rough idle. Thanks for the help!

 

The new radiator switch fixed the issue of the fan being on all the time. Was a pretty easy job, many thanks to Thefeliciahacker for the idea of using spade connectors, it worked like a charm. Replacing the thermostat housing was also easy, previous one seemed to be broken, as the internal components were all loose inside.

 

Now onto the rough idle problem. Whenever I start the car, the RPMs go down until it dies out. If I press the gas, it stays alive, but I have to keep pressing it to keep it that way. There are faint sputtering sounds at idle (though the roughness of it seems to have been improved a bit with the new thermostat). The issue doesn't show itself on the road and at speed, it goes on the highway with no issues, it seems to be at startup only.

 

So far the ideas I have are:

 

1 - Clean and reset the throttle body

2 - Check the fuel pressure by using the "finger in hose" method

3 - I previously thought a look at the MAF sensor and a cleanup would be appropriate, but it seems Felicias have a MAP sensor instead, and I can't find much information about it and how to maintain it, especially in carburetor models.

4 - Check the tightness of the throttle cable. I've done it, and it has a tiny bit of play, which is how I think it's supposed to be.

 

That is all I have for now. Are there other parts that could be causing this issue, maybe a sensor I don't know of? I ordered a Haynes manual but it will take a bit to get here. Any input or suggestions are appreciated.

Edited 10 August, 20214 yr by Dogswards

6 hours ago, Dogswards said:

MAP sensor instead, and I can't find much information about it and how to maintain it, especially in carburetor models

Man this doesnt really make sense I dont think carbureted fellys had a map sensor (they had distributor ignition).
Just clean it with brake cleaner and check live data using vag-com that will tell you everything.

Make sure you have no vaccum leaks whatsoever.

If you have MPI check thottle angle at all positions using vag-com.

Check timing advance at idle

And lambda voltage.

Then report back

6 hours ago, Dogswards said:

reset the throttle body

BUT HAVE YOU TRIED MSM?

 

6 hours ago, Dogswards said:

many thanks to Thefeliciahacker

anytime mate

6 hours ago, Dogswards said:

I previously thought a look at the MAF sensor and a cleanup would be appropriate, but it seems Felicias have a MAP sensor instead, and I can't find much information about it and how to maintain it, especially in carburetor models.

That will be because a carburettor car has neither a MAP nor a MAF.

55 minutes ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Man this doesnt really make sense I dont think carbureted fellys had a map sensor (they had distributor ignition).
Just clean it with brake cleaner and check live data using vag-com that will tell you everything.

Make sure you have no vaccum leaks whatsoever.

If you have MPI check thottle angle at all positions using vag-com.

Check timing advance at idle

And lambda voltage.

Then report back

BUT HAVE YOU TRIED MSM?

 

anytime mate

 

Ok, many thanks once again. It does turn out that they don't have a MAP or a MAF (thank you KenONeill). That's what I get for reading into what works for other Felicias and assuming it applies to my model. Could you elaborate on what you mean by MSM?

 

So my next few steps will be:

1 - Use the cable to check for any codes

2 - Clean the throttle body and check for any vacuum leaks

3 - Reset throttle body using cable

 

If that doesn't fix it then:

 

4 - Check Throttle Angle, timing advance and lambda voltage and report back with results.

 

Edited 10 August, 20214 yr by Dogswards

How about telling us what type of ENGINE your Felicia has? We have assumed your engine is fitted with a carburetor but you suddenly came with things like MAP, MAF, throttle body. Are you confident you know what are you talking about? You have already told us that your knowledge about cars is very poor, but at least fill your personal profile so it reflects what type of engine has your Felicia. It is all written in the registration document of the car.

First should be the engine displacement (1.3, 1.6 or 1.9)

The second should be a code (135, 135B, 136B, 135M, 136M, AEE or AEF)

Edited 10 August, 20214 yr by RicardoM

1 hour ago, RicardoM said:

How about telling us what type of ENGINE your Felicia has?

 

I added the information regarding the engine type and was more specific about the model now.

 

1 hour ago, RicardoM said:

Are you confident you know what are you talking about?

 

Absolutely not.

 

1 hour ago, RicardoM said:

We have assumed your engine is fitted with a carburetor but you suddenly came with things like MAP, MAF, throttle body.

 

From this I am assuming my car does not have a throttle body. While I would have probably figured that out on my own after I went looking for it, it saves me some trouble to know it's not there.

OK screw everything I said. 

Make sure carb is clean internally and make absolutely certain there is no vaccum leaks whatsoever. 

Adjust it prperly

7 hours ago, Dogswards said:

Use the cable to check for any codes

You can't you have carburetor 

15 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

OK screw everything I said. 

Make sure carb is clean internally and make absolutely certain there is no vaccum leaks whatsoever. 

Adjust it prperly

 

Ok thank you.

 

I've given the pipes a quick check and nothing looked too bad. I'll properly check them for vacuum leaks when I have the carb ready to put back on.

 

I have disassembled the carburetor and cleaned the interiors. Many thanks to RicardoM for having posted a video on the cleaning process. While the disassembly was a dog of a job to do (especially when you don't know what any part is), it was doable. There was some carbon on the walls of the "chambers" and some on the "paddles" (they are likely called something else), but none of the holes were clogged, and the carbon amount was so small that it doesn't seem likely to be the cause of the issues.

 

I have ordered some new gaskets for the carburetor (the ones in it are really nasty), and I'll put it back into the car and adjust it once the Haynes manual I ordered arrives so I can have a bit more of a clue about what I'm doing. I found it pretty funny that the bottom of my carburetor was made in Czechoslovakia, and the top was made in the Czech Republic.

 

Here is a photo of the carb before taking it off:

 

There is a lot of what I assume is dried coolant on the leftmost hoses. I am unsure if that's a sign of an issue. There is also a hole on the cabin air box (top, towards the right). I'll fix that at some point, but surely it's unrelated to my issues, right?

This thread:
 

 

Seems to have a lot of good information. From this I have learned that my base gasket is warped as it rocks when pushed down on a corner when placed over glass (thank you KenONeill). From there I have also gotten a manual for the Carburetor (thank you RicardoM). The manual does say that the carburetor fixing screws should be torqued to 7Nm, but I had to use all my strength to get them off...

 

I'll try to sort out these issues, but finding a new base gasket is going to be a challenge.

6 hours ago, Dogswards said:

use all my strength to get them off...

Either someone overtighten them or the were a bit sized as the are always when the haven't been removed for a while 

10 hours ago, Dogswards said:

thank you KenONeill

No problem, but @RicardoM and I would both rather you clicked the grey  icon bottom right on one of our posts and made it go blue.

On 12/08/2021 at 02:31, Dogswards said:

I'll try to sort out these issues, but finding a new base gasket is going to be a challenge.

Finding one in your country should be easy. If not, try at your Russian friends

The hard part will be making the gasket really flat. I have often used REINZOSIL as the secret weapon to get a perfect vacuum seal.

7 hours ago, RicardoM said:

The hard part will be making the gasket really flat.

Also @Dogswards - This is where my sheet of glass comes in again. I attach a sheet of silicon carbide paper to it using double sided tape, which holds it dead flat, then sand the mounting block with a figure 8 motion.

Thank you for the suggestions.

 

So far I am steering away from replacement parts, as I read on the other thread that they are of poor quality and sometimes come pre-warped. I am considering 3 options for now:

 

- Getting the metal part sanded flat by a local shop (best option IMO)

- Sanding it myself with the method KenONeill mentioned

- Getting a whole new part made. There are metal shops where I live that offer that kind of service. (worst option IMO due to cost)

 

Regardless, I am going to be away from the car for the rest of the month, so I won't be able to offer up any news of progress. When I come back I'll likely have more questions about the reassembly of the carb itself, to make sure I am not making any mistakes there. Thank you for all the help so far, these forums have been a godsend with all the information provided both in this thread and throughout the others.

31 minutes ago, Dogswards said:

Thank you for the suggestions.

 

So far I am steering away from replacement parts, as I read on the other thread that they are of poor quality and sometimes come pre-warped. I am considering 3 options for now:

 

- Getting the metal part sanded flat by a local shop (best option IMO)

- Sanding it myself with the method KenONeill mentioned

- Getting a whole new part made. There are metal shops where I live that offer that kind of service. (worst option IMO due to cost)

 

Regardless, I am going to be away from the car for the rest of the month, so I won't be able to offer up any news of progress. When I come back I'll likely have more questions about the reassembly of the carb itself, to make sure I am not making any mistakes there. Thank you for all the help so far, these forums have been a godsend with all the information provided both in this thread and throughout the others.

 

Cancel that, the shop I contacted to get the part sanded quoted me a new part (original). I was a bit weary of that, but the price was so low that even if there is a risk the part is crappy I don't mind.

1 hour ago, Dogswards said:

Getting the metal part sanded flat by a local shop (best option IMO)

Ah, the mounting block isn't made of metal. Can you find an exploded view and indicate which part you're talking about?

21 minutes ago, KenONeill said:

Ah, the mounting block isn't made of metal. Can you find an exploded view and indicate which part you're talking about?

Ah, I believe you are talking of the rubber bit? The part I was referring to is below the rubber. It's not in the carburetor manual, but here is a photo of it:

 

 

My rubber part is OK, but this has a noticeable wobble when pressed on corners. When placed on a flat surface, if I add water in the middle it leaks out to the sides so it's likely warped a bit.

Edited 13 August, 20214 yr by Dogswards

I would have a look at the intake manifold to check its flatness too. Also The carburetor base warping.

Also, to set things straight, there are 2 types of carburetor gaskets on the market.

There is the old one, used on Skoda Favorit too. As you see, it is made in one piece of rubberized metal. Good luck finding a straight one.

There is the new one that looks like a sandwich.

2 hours ago, Dogswards said:

When I come back I'll likely have more questions about the reassembly of the carb itself, to make sure I am not making any mistakes there.

It would be easier to drop by to your house and tutor you

1 hour ago, RicardoM said:

There is the new one that looks like a sandwich.

 

That is the one I have. Thanks for the information. Good idea about looking at the intake manifold to check if it's even there. I already checked the carburetor bottom but I hadn't thought about the intake.

 

1 hour ago, RicardoM said:

It would be easier to drop by to your house and tutor you

 

Sure, does the end of the month work for you? Food is on me.

2 hours ago, Dogswards said:

Ah, I believe you are talking of the rubber bit? The part I was referring to is below the rubber.

Ah right; If I needed a new one of those for a car, I'd make it out of a cereal box (brand/size unimportant as long as the biggest sides are bigger than the carb mounting flange.