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Brother I'm sorry to inform you that is a hg leak it's even worse than mine. Its not cavitation cause the pump is far away its not trapped air, because the car would bleed itself after so much time. 

The issue is minor but still present. 

Sorry... 

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Arh, the certainty of youth, and you could well be right which is why I would get one of those inexpensive kits as a next step - but - you can run for quite a while after refilling a system for all the bubbles to go, remember normally you are not looking for them there might even normally be some at the next heat cycle or more.  A lot depends on what was done, removed, how it was refilled.

 

I've lost track of the filling of the coolant or water.

 

captain_crunch

Another quick thought - (if fitted?) has the heater control been set to hottest setting allowing the heater matrix to fill and purge?

 

Edited by nta16
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F@k my life problems everywhere i think im going to sell it its a waste of time and efforts and a lot of money even this car have although good memories when i was a kid but now im facing  many problems

1- trash spare parts in my country ((vika)) hard to find oem parts

2- if i orderd oem parts online it will be very expensive as my country will add fees and customs

3- mechanics in my country are a pice of shi* they use their experince and ignorance the manufacturer recommendations almost time (mentality problem)

4- if i want to make everything right it will ended by i will be a mechanic i have a life and i want to joy +  i am computer network engineer

 

on other hand i want to know right steps to remove and install new head gasket as manfacture said may i fix it later or make mechanic do the instructions as the manfacture said

last thing i want to know what is best parts for

1- headgasket

2- valve stem seals

3-manifold gasket and exaust

4-coolant temperature sensor

5-any expected part may be change while change head gasket

what website i orderd from because i try to order from https://www.autodoc.co.uk/ there was problem with fanswitch and thermostat i orderd fanswitch valeo it came calorstat and ordered thermostat gates it comes calorstat too

thx you guys for every advice 😍

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13 minutes ago, captain_crunch said:

it came calorstat and ordered thermostat gates it comes calorstat too

well autodoc has never done that to me but ive heard it many times, just use safe order and you will be covered

 

8 hours ago, nta16 said:

those inexpensive kits as a next step

he should nonetheless

14 minutes ago, captain_crunch said:

headgasket

Payen

 

14 minutes ago, captain_crunch said:

valve stem seals

dont bother if car has less than 200k or its not burning a sip of oil

 

15 minutes ago, captain_crunch said:

manifold gasket and exaust

its a combination gasket again payen

 

15 minutes ago, captain_crunch said:

coolant temperature sensor

bohr mahle vemo

 

15 minutes ago, captain_crunch said:

any expected part may be change while change head gasket

maybe bolts and the cam followers gasket

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captain_crunch,

it does not help you but even in the UK and in my county which is known for engineering and motor racing (Silverstone is just down the road and Santa Pod not far) it is difficult to find parts and good workers.

 

For "classic" cars (overvalued, overpriced old cars) in the UK the modern made parts can be anything from crap, ****-poor to abysmal and often not that cheap to buy at that.  Prices for parts are generally low but that often reflects the quality and when you have to replace them because of poor quality the costs can be high.

 

Even so called specialist experts in the UK can be con-men and bodge-artists with many specialist garages and mechanics not doing a good job, those that do good work you can not get near as they have far too much work and can afford to turn other work away or it may be months and months of waiting.  That is why I had to start doing some work on my own car as I could often do a better job and if not at least I am a cheap idiot to employee.

 

I am not a good mechanic and do not have a garage so work outside is not fun in the UK with its very variable weather.  On a sunny or dry day when I could or do work on the car I think it is a waste as I should be out driving or doing anything else to enjoy the day rather than getting very dirty and laying on the ground messing about with cars.

 

People will tell you that you only ned a basic tool kit and that is not so as many jobs require tools that you would not normally have and if you can not borrow them you might buy them and only use them once or very infrequently.  Whatever tools you have and no matter how many you could always do with more it is never ending and then you need to store, clean and maintain all these tools including the ones that are only used once or rarely.

 

No matter how well you prepare for a job half way through with the car in bits you often find you need an unexpected part that you can not get for a few days or the part you have been sent does not fit or any number of reasons why you can not complete the work, if outside often the weather

 

I would advise you not to get involved with repairing cars it is dirty, you get minor (hopefully not major) injuries and it can be even more frustrating than dealing with legacy and badly written computer programs.

 

The Payen head gaskets for my car are not available at the moment, I fitted one last year to replace the Payen that blew that was was fitted 7 years before the new gasket had a sticker added to it to say not to fit the gasket and fill with coolant unless the engine was to be run straight away.  I had never heard of this before so I suspect it had been found that the gaskets had a fault in them and this was the way around the fault.

 

I suggest you get the inexpensive kit and see if that shows HGF - but bear in mind the test is only an indication and it may still fail to pick up a leak ut is still worth trying especially at low cost of money, time and effort.

 

Good luck.

 

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Cmon felly hg is easy peasy lemon squeeze. He can do it with just a torque wrench 

I know this is positive encouragement but in all seriousness theses types over simplifications can make a beginner think they must be doing something wrong when they discover the true extend and sometimes awkwardness of the work.

 

This torque wrench, how accurate does it have to be, how do you test its accuracy (that is a rhetorical (non-) question), how good is this torque wrench as a screwdriver and cleaning materials - just a torque wrench not even one socket too.   🤪

 

What torque setting are you going to use, with existing studs/bolts or new, what material new studs/bolts, reading wet or dry, what allowance for existing metals and threads, certificated torque wrench or just tested, to what accuracy, and I could do at least a couple more sentences on the torque wrench alone and I know nothing about mechanics and engineering.

 

Just give a tiny sample of the other side - overcomplication.  😁

 

One side is just jump the fall will not hurt you, my side is the fall is fine it's how far you fall and what you are going to land on and how.

 

If captain_crunch wants to take the work on, great, I will try to help if I can but I think he should at least go in with his eyes open.

 

Anyway it might not be HGF all being well. 

Edited by nta16
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4 hours ago, nta16 said:

captain_crunch,

it does not help you but even in the UK and in my county which is known for engineering and motor racing (Silverstone is just down the road and Santa Pod not far) it is difficult to find parts and good workers.

 

For "classic" cars (overvalued, overpriced old cars) in the UK the modern made parts can be anything from crap, ****-poor to abysmal and often not that cheap to buy at that.  Prices for parts are generally low but that often reflects the quality and when you have to replace them because of poor quality the costs can be high.

 

Even so called specialist experts in the UK can be con-men and bodge-artists with many specialist garages and mechanics not doing a good job, those that do good work you can not get near as they have far too much work and can afford to turn other work away or it may be months and months of waiting.  That is why I had to start doing some work on my own car as I could often do a better job and if not at least I am a cheap idiot to employee.

 

I am not a good mechanic and do not have a garage so work outside is not fun in the UK with its very variable weather.  On a sunny or dry day when I could or do work on the car I think it is a waste as I should be out driving or doing anything else to enjoy the day rather than getting very dirty and laying on the ground messing about with cars.

 

People will tell you that you only ned a basic tool kit and that is not so as many jobs require tools that you would not normally have and if you can not borrow them you might buy them and only use them once or very infrequently.  Whatever tools you have and no matter how many you could always do with more it is never ending and then you need to store, clean and maintain all these tools including the ones that are only used once or rarely.

 

No matter how well you prepare for a job half way through with the car in bits you often find you need an unexpected part that you can not get for a few days or the part you have been sent does not fit or any number of reasons why you can not complete the work, if outside often the weather

 

I would advise you not to get involved with repairing cars it is dirty, you get minor (hopefully not major) injuries and it can be even more frustrating than dealing with legacy and badly written computer programs.

 

The Payen head gaskets for my car are not available at the moment, I fitted one last year to replace the Payen that blew that was was fitted 7 years before the new gasket had a sticker added to it to say not to fit the gasket and fill with coolant unless the engine was to be run straight away.  I had never heard of this before so I suspect it had been found that the gaskets had a fault in them and this was the way around the fault.

 

I suggest you get the inexpensive kit and see if that shows HGF - but bear in mind the test is only an indication and it may still fail to pick up a leak ut is still worth trying especially at low cost of money, time and effort.

 

Good luck.

 

 

 

 

 

thank you very much for this advices and for your experince as you say involved with repairing cars its dirty that is problem also i work under my home not in garage or repair shop but i belive when you make your repairs by yourself almost time be perfectly amazing than the mechanic  as i remembered that the car dont work from first time at cold start what is issue was valve clerance was tight as the mechanic set valve clerance when engine is hot he said its alternate method ( by the way he worked for skoda and repair many felicia and favorit in 90s ) tell me that  he learned this method from skoda courses by foreign expertises verified by skoda anyway engine sound was amazing silence and temp is good but i tried to do with my self valve clerance at 0.20 when its cold i take hours but once i finish and try the engine run form first time like a rocket but engine sound become louder (like any normal felicia)

another time i have removed the carburetor do some maintenance it take days but worked well

some times i make horrible mistakes  as removed spark plugs and do gap clerance but torque was hard  make one of them blow of its place i wen mechanic  and fix this issue

at all i dont want to make quick judge on my head gasket as

1- i try fill water method in another car it was mitsubishi lancer cs3 engine its new make 35000km only and after car get warm i found bubbles could be it have head gasket too i dont think so

2- i will buy engine compression gauge and test my felicia engine if there is a leak in head gasket compression numbers will be not well the other method and preferred head gasket tester fluid but it very expeinsive as i will buy it online (correct to me if the compression gauge will not worth it)

 

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2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Cmon felly hg is easy peasy lemon squeeze. He can do it with just a torque wrench 

thanks for your motivation but i have not much experince to remove my headgasket i will try to do compression test to my engine if head gasket the compression will be bad is this method is good to verify head gaket or not

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12 minutes ago, captain_crunch said:

e if head gasket the compression will be bad is this method is good to verify head gaket or not

No because static compression will give far less pressure than explosions in the power stroke 

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1 hour ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

So wait did it bubble? The lancer I mean? 

yes after car get warm its start to bubble too mitsubishi lancer coolant system is diffrent the coolant cap in radiator itself unlike felicia but i think bubble test can be done on both two

i make bubble test third time again on my cousin car it was older mitsubishi lancer cs3 have 180000km engine and after a while bubbles start to appers

so the final results is

1- my felicia coolant bubbles

2- 1st lancer 35000km engine coolant bubbles

3- 2nd lancer 180000km engine coolant bubbles

i think that i need something more accurate than bubble test unfortunately head gasket leak tester is very expensive more than head gasket repair 😆

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There is more than one way to set the valves and you could spend forever trying to get them perfect and you never will, these are not precision engines and they have wear and tear on them.  As long as you get them fairly even and not too tight or loose you are there. A little tighter or a little looser each way has advantages and disadvantages and can be run with how you run and set other engine components.

 

You may be overthinking these things.

 

Same as with the bubbles, perhaps I am wrong and I might be the only one but I do not see them as that bad for a system that was formerly rusty and may still be shedding crud.  If the car is set up well and it does not show signs of getting too warm and there is no coolant loss or excess vapour coming out of the exhaust or signs of coolant in the oil then drive it for a while and see if it gets worse.  You will be keeping a close eye on it so you are unlikely to let it get too bad.

 

Using  a compression tester can give you information but it needs to be used and interpreted correctly, if there is a big fault obviously it will show up but minor variations may just cause you more distress and repeated testing.  I am not sure it would help with things as they are now, unles you have another problem present or starting,

 

There are lots of video on testing torque wrenches depending on the type you have, a minor variance from absolute perfect does not really matter here you are not working with an ultimate precision piece of equipment or on a precision engine, consistency of the tightening and method used is important.

 

Do remember, I am not a mechanic.

 

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17 minutes ago, captain_crunch said:

an i ask you how do you know that your head gasket is blown just bubbles only in expansion coolant tank or their are others symptoms with bubbles like white smoke all the time or loss of power or loss in coolant or high temp

 

As we say in engineering failure modes. Of which are plenty, it could fail to the coolant jacket it could fail to pushrod cavity (water in oil) it could fail in a multitude of ways therefore and based on my own felly which does have residual pressure in the morning and it does loose some coolant out of the expansion tank I've concluded that it has to be a minor coolant jacket to cylinder type leak. 

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