I'm sorry for duplicating my posts in the for sale section, but I need some fairly quick help on the suitability / applicability of the entire vRS braking system on my Fabia.

Are the hubs the same? - so they should just literally bolt on? Discs too?

These brakes aren't up for sale for very long so I need to act fast if this proves to be an ideal solution to my imminently to be replaced pads - mod & a wear & tear replacement in one - luvverly jubbly!

Jason, I assume you've got wheels that are PCD 5x100. If not forget it. What offset are your wheels?

Next thing is that, assuming the discs fit, you will probably need to some calliper mounts mad up as you'll need to shift the callipers out. That'll cost you about

would they fit straight on to my 1.6 then or would it involve messing about?

edit: sorry if the response is the same just finished work and my brain is a bit fuzzy

You'd need to relocate the calliper as above, oh and fit minimum 16" wheels.

Jon, well done. You've just totally flumoxxed me.

All I know about my wheels is they are 7.5J x 17" - aside from that I know nothing about any offset. They're VW wheels if that gives a clue? I dunno what the PCD 5x100 even means.

If any extra work to the mounts is needed, I'm not going to bother. I just assumed that once the calipers are mounted to my mounts, it would be set up OK for the discs too...

:confused:

One thing I will have to do as well is get a 17" alloy spare of some sort, as I don't beileve (if I did it) a 14" steel would not go over the vRS brakes... :eek:

cheers jon i wont bother then

:cheers:

Jaso, sorry

PCD = Pitch Circle Diameter, ie the spacing of the nuts. 5X100 indicates that they have 5 holes and the diameter of a circle drawn through the centre of all 5 holes will be 100mm.

Offset = the amount that the wheel sticks out,the number of mm out from the centre of the wheel that the hub sits. RS wheels are 7x17 ET38. Yours are 7.5 so you'd be looking for an offset of either ET35 or ET32 as a guess to get them to go over the calliper.

The calliper on the RS is the same as on all other Octavias (it takes the same pad). However, it is moved outwards to go over the bigger discs. You can get a bracket made up that will move the calliper outwards or buy new suspension lower arms from a RS that will do the same (they are a different casting and are about

Jason, think carefully about it, before you do it.

Knowing you are on a budget I should point out that bigger discs are bigger money, and the pads aren't cheap either (relatively speaking).

[sigh]

Surely the most cost-effective way to improve braking is higher quality brake pads and brake fluid?

The benefits of bigger discs won't be seen without improving these two anyway, as you'll still get fade anyway...

Rob.

(quite possible ****-talking again)

Rob, the only time you talk sh** is when you're dissing Fabias! :p

I think I'm going to go the DS2500 pads route - just on front or all four? - Have to see how well all four current pads are worn when big_k (hopefully) gets his hands on it. Fluid? As I know sod-all about this, what benefit would a higher grade fluid have? please?

:cheers:

Obviously its better to listen to the likes of Jon on this one.

It might be worth talking to Elton at Jabbasport. He told me that larger brakes from most Golf based VAG cars would fit my Fabia, as the brakes were the same setup on the front (when they did the suspension etc). I believe some Fabias have different setup though.

DS2500s are an easier option thuogh. I had just the fronts on mine, but you could try the fliud too (I didnt and still made a big difference)

Jason,

Get some standard discs

Get some DS2500 pads

Get some Castrol Response Super DOT4 fluid (Make sure it is the Super DOT4) about

Rob' date=' the only time you talk sh** is when you're dissing Fabias! :p

I think I'm going to go the DS2500 pads route - just on front or all four? - Have to see how well all four current pads are worn when big_k (hopefully) gets his hands on it. Fluid? As I know sod-all about this, what benefit would a higher grade fluid have? please?

[/quote']

I actually types ar** instead of sh** but it's all pretty much the same...

No expert on what exactly happens with brake fluid, but vigorous braking causes it to boil, which stops it working so well...causing fade...

Rob.

I think its because its hydroscopic (or is it hygroscopic) ie it absorbs water. When the flluid boils it gives off condensation which is then absorbed into the fluid. This reduces the boiling point. That's why they quote wet and dry boiling points for the fluid. Dry is when it's new, wet is when it's old. DOT5+ absorbs water quicker, so I'd get the super DOT4, then you can stick to your standard 40k mile / 2 year fluid changes with only a marginal increase in cost.

for the advice. I may see if Jabba do that kind of thing, or otherwise look for the bits on mail order (don't need new discs all round yet) - pads and fluid in the short run may at least give me a bit more ability on that forthcoming track day.

(or is it hygroscopic)

Yes

And I'd always assumed that when the fluid boiled it was the fact that gas (brake fluid vapour) was given off - gas being more compressible than fluid - that caused the fade. I can't understand how just boiling the fluid would give off water vapour :confused:?

I may be wrong (not the first time). :(

I'm fairly sure that it is from the boiling of the fluid that water vapour comes about (possibly in the form of condensation :confused: ) which is then absorbed by the fluid.

I'll check and post up the right answer (although I'm fairly sure I'm right in principle).

In a sealed system, the condensate could only come from within the system, unless there is a means of drawing either air or fluid in from the outside.

So the water would either have to be there in the first place or sucked into the system via the outside air.

I thought that brake fluid was hygroscopic - i.e. it naturally absorbs water, so if it left open to the elements it will increase in volume.

Boiling the brake fluid would effectively distil the fluid, so any water trapped within the fluid would be turned into vapour and would then condense in the coolest part of the system it contacts. The boiling point of the water would be less than the oil-based component of the fluid, so the water will boil and vaporise earlier.

I knew A-level Chemistry and Physics would come in useful some time.

boffin! square! teacher's pet! :p (just re-living all the taunting I got at school. )

Jason, you missed "erroniously" out of that sentence

Jason, you missed "erroniously" out of that sentence

Which bit of the sentence?? Am I incorrect?

BTW - the cause of the fade is that the water boiling will create bubbles in the brake fluid at the pad, thus reducing the hydraulic performance of the fluid and therefore inducing the fade.

Howard are you really Jason? :confused:

all the taunting I got at school

is what I was refering to.

And no, you are correct.

Ahh, must take my anti-sensitive pills......