4 year service recomendations

[MozzyMarr]

I've owned my Fabia my 67 plate 1.0 MPI SE since new and recently paid off the finance as it the current market conditions are not right to buy a new car and I am perfectly happy with the car I already have. I by paying off the finance I bought the car for well below current market value too :).  I have only done just over 16,000 miles although my mileage has increased over the past year.  My mileage is mostly stop start Manchester traffic although I turn off stop start in heavy traffic in order to help preserve the life of the battery and starter motor. 

 

The past three years I've had the basic service done by Skoda, and had the rear drums cleaned out and handbrake cable very slightly adjusted by my local indy. Other than that car has only had two new tyres due to a puncture and I replaced all wiper blades a couple of years ago (the car lives under trees).  I am thinking I am better of going to a specialist for my fourth service. I was thinking I will get the oil change done, air filter and brake fluid changed. Do the spark plugs also need changing? I was told my car has long life plugs that last a long time but not sure if that is true.

 

The coolant is also long life so I am assuming I don't need to worry about that yet?  After doing a lot of research on the cambelt I am not getting that done yet but I might if I still own the car in a couple of years time. The aux belts all look brand new so I can't imagine the cambelt being any where near due to a replacement yet. 

I think I do change the pollen filter myself as I always like something to do.

So does my plan sound reasonable?  Is there anything else should get checked at four years old? I am thinking a battery test might be useful but so far I've had any symptoms of the battery not being in fine health. 

[Ootohere]

Ask the mechanic what they think.

I would whip out the plugs anyway and check condition and gap, and since doing that usually change them.  Others will just leave them. 

 

Low miles annually i would change oil and filter anyway.

Then stop using long life oil, not to save on the price of oil, but because Long life oil is not for use in Petrol Keepers IMO.

https://www.volkswagen.co.uk/en/owners-and-drivers/servicing/service-plans/service-schedules.html

 

 

If you are happy leaving it 2 years then so be it, but if you are doing short cold start trips there is condensation / H20 in the oil / engine and not getting burned off if car  / oil not up to temp. 

 

 

Edited 4 October, 2021 by e-Roottoot

[MozzyMarr]

Thanks, I will without a doubt get the oil changed, it was just stuff like plugs I wasn't sure of. Most my journeys are to work so although it is start start that journey takes between 35 and 50 minutes so 95% of my journeys the engine always gets up to temperature despite the low mileage.  

[nta16]

Low mileage is more wearing on many components and parts so annual oil & filter change is highly recommended.  Stop, start traffic used to be considered "severe" conditions so more frequent servicing, more oil& filter changes but I'm with instead using a better quality oil that offers better margins of protection for longer, thus protecting your engine better.

 

I also favour changing the plugs as, like with many other parts, just because they're working doesn't mean that they're not passed their optimum and best.  Parts passed their best can make other parts and components work harder thus wearing them more and I prefer a crisp fast start to the engine and better performance (power and mpg).

 

This brings in also as you've pointed out the importance of the battery for starting but also keeping the computers happy with sufficient power so they don't throw wobbles (and they can).  Be careful about having a battery tested, it needs to be done right to be accurate.  You may want to invest in a good quality battery-charger (slow is usually better than fast)  that also has battery (and alternator) tester built-in.  I was caught out by how invasive to the rest of the car the battery computer system is even though I've know the importance of the car battery for nearly 50 years these modern cars are even more dependant.

 

Personally I'd replace the air filter now and perhaps again in two years time, less muck in the engine the better.

 

Coolant I'd suggest you change at 5 years (unless its a 7 or 10 year coolant) as whilst the antifreeze part may still be good the other additives may be weakened plus draining will also remove any contaminants and debris from the cooling/heating system, again less crud to cause wear and extra work.

 

You're obviously aware that brakes, steering, suspension - which all include tyres - and lighting and vision are more important than the engine, so yeap brake fluid and keep an eye on your tyres and wheels if the roads are anything like around here.

 

Cabin filter is one for you and perhaps later you might want to do some of the other servicing work too.

 

For winter I'd have a look at your wiper blades and change them yourself (to silicone ones if you can get them, something I intend to do).

 

You've not put what gearbox you have.

 

Edited 12 October, 2021 by nta16
speeling and stuff

[nta16]

22 minutes ago, MozzyMarr said:

journey takes between 35 and 50 minutes so 95% of my journeys the engine always gets up to temperature despite the low mileage. 

Your car should easily be up to temperature in that time but don't just look at the 'water' temperature scroll your setting to oil temperature, you want that at 90c really to be fully warmed otherwise the oil may not be getting a full chance to do its job and be getting passed some of the stuff your engine don't want.

 

[MozzyMarr]

Thanks for that, I do check the oil temperature every so often and it is usually around 85-90c, the water temperature gauge is usually in the middle for most of my driving and it is very rare I make a journey where it doesn't reach that level. I obviously don't get the oil temperature as often as it is not in my face like the water temperature gauge :).  I have already replaced the wipers, with some Bosch ones which have so far lasted a lot longer than the OEMs. 

 

I know first hand about batteries and modern electronics, my previous car  (a 2010 Panda) developed a lot of strange ECU issues (and loss of power steering) and wasn't happy with the battery voltages before a cold start. I replaced the battery and the ECU issues never returned :). 

 

The gear box is a 5 speed manual, so possibly an oil change on that might be worth while?  At the very least I think I get the oil/filter changed, new air filter, new plugs, cabin filter (will do myself) and brake fluid change/brake bleeding.  The pads and discs are still fine but will probably change the pads next year at around 18-20k.

[nta16]

17 hours ago, MozzyMarr said:

I know first hand about batteries and modern electronics, my previous car  (a 2010 Panda) developed a lot of strange ECU issues (and loss of power steering) and wasn't happy with the battery voltages before a cold start. I replaced the battery and the ECU issues never returned :).

I bang on about this all the time but I think a lot of owners don't understand or too readily dismiss it.  With the first cold snap this year some will notice issues and the second cold snap could bring problems, and possibly breakdowns call-outs for some but it can be prevented.

 

You seem to be very much on top of things.  For wear items like the brake pads don't worry about time or mileage just go on the wear.

 

Personally I think the g/box oil should be changed especially on a city /short-distance use car.  I think at 5 or so years and again the chance to use a good or better quality oil to offer better protection for longer.  I changed the g/box oil on my wife's Fabia and she said she thought the gearshift feel was better for it but it's really about maintaining  a higher level of protection as oils are relatively inexpensive but gearboxes  ain't.

 

For wiper blades something you might already do but some forget about is to wipe the rubber blades (elements) to remove muck/grit/grime when cleaning the car and or in between, I use cream glass cleaner on a clean cloth but there lots of alternative even just water, anything that cleans without abrasion.

 

You sound like you have knowledge and experience that you could pass on sometimes here.

 

Good luck.

 

Edited 5 October, 2021 by nta16
speeling and stuff

[TerFar]

I think you're about right. Cam belt should be inspected at 5 years: it is unlikey to worn as the manufacturer guarantees it for 100,000m. 

The aircon may need a service, but choose an independent specialising in aircons. Most probably the VAG main dealer sends aircon work elsewhere anyway. 

I keep my start /stop permanently disabled by disconnecting the BCM sensor from the negative terminal of the battery. That overrides the idiotic 80% charge limiter. 

With your moderate mileage, I'd leave the plugs until the fifth service too. They are longlife plugs, 50,000 miles seems reasonable. 

[AGFalco]

Spark plugs listed at 40,000 miles.

Air filter listed at 60,000 miles but you need to remove the air filter to change the plugs.

More details here:- 

Thanks, AG Falco

[SurreyJohn]

I think you have got it fairly well covered.

 

You mentioned a puncture and 2 new tyres, I don’t know how long ago, but keep eye on tread depths and swap them around (front-back) if required.  The fronts will wear about 3 times rate of backs (unless carrying heavy loads).  Otherwise might get 2 tyres with fairly good treads but cracking, so try and even up the wear.  If only doing 4K miles per year will get cracked rear tyres long before tread is under 3mm (legal min is only 1.6mm, but anything under 3mm isn’t ideal in rain)

 

 

 

[RickW]

Are cracked tyres dangerous? Rears cracked on wifes Citigo.

Edited 11 October, 2021 by RickW

[TerFar]

It's definitely best to change them. My original Bridgestone tyres were noted cracking on the 5 year service (independent) who advised to replace them even though tread-wise they were well legal. 

[nta16]

37 minutes ago, RickW said:

Are cracked tyres dangerous? Rears cracked on wifes Citigo.

Depends how cracked they are, it's very common now for a variety of reasons, for MoT it could be an advisory for a few years on the same tyres - but it's certainly not a good sign.

 

As with over-priced and over-valued old cars called "classics" like MG Midgets and Austin A40s the tyres may have lots of tread on them through lack of use/mileage but this can cause the sidewalls and tread to go hard affecting the performance of the tyre (braking, steering, handling, road holding, noise and comfort).  If the tyres are too aged or in poor condition then this can have serious consequences (see images from R G Everitt below of *new looking* 27-year old tyres on a MG BGT).

 

If the Citigo rear tyres haven't seen a lot of mileage then they could "dry rot" well before the tread gets anywhere near the legal limit of 1.6 mm (better to have 2.5-3 mm if you drive the tyres in the wet though) so possibly a good reason to rotate the tyres to even out the tread wear.

 

Tyres have a manufacturing date on them, four digits, first two are the week of the year and last two the year - unless your tyres are that old they have three digits and perhaps a triangle (or no date at all) in which case they are so old their use is questionable. - https://www.uniroyal-tyres.com/car/tyre-guide/tyre-knowledge/the-importance-of-tyre-age-as-well-as-tread-depth

 

If you're able to put up high-resolution close up photos of the tyres it might give some idea as to how bad they are.

 

Edited 11 October, 2021 by nta16
speeling and stuff