46 minutes ago, Stewartasb said:

using a really good scanner in all honesty will scan again tomorrow and take pics of all the values.

If it's a really good scanner does it not give value ranges and colour coding to like (but not) OK - suspect - bad (in green amber red perhaps), also could you record a report to, er, export to something that can be viewed a file, "print out" or "photographed".  Again if it's got freeze frame at time of fault(s).  Or perhaps a video of a live data stream at idle and if possible a second person driving.

 

Have a read of that link I posted and do tick off all the things suggested that you've already done and those you haven't a to-do-list.  Same thing for all the suggestions on this thread from the start do the lists and better to check twice than not at all.

 

If it's a lot less hassle to fire the parts cannon again fair enough but I thought you put the other sensor showed as OK on the scanner.

 

Again on a really good scanner you can test and activate things from the scanner (turn one headlight on to test it) forget the terminology, call it Timmy-two-ways for now.

 

yeah thats been on my mind as well the cat as it happens I do have a new sensor 2 already so will pop that on first tomorrow and do the other things we discussed if no luck then guess its time for a new mouser sigh just wish this car would stop kicking me in the happy sack this last year.

31 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

will have the plugs out tomorrow

Unless there one that's odd I don't think the plugs will tell you much, if all have been on a rich idle they'll all show that but if one or all are worn, damaged or incorrectly gapped then that's worth knowing.

 

 

7 minutes ago, Stewartasb said:

I do have a new sensor 2 already so will pop that on first tomorrow

As long as it's good quality why not.

 

 

8 minutes ago, Stewartasb said:

if no luck then guess its time for a new mouser

Your scanner should help with that decision but as well as the sensors you could screw in a pressure gauge front and rear to judge the cat - and aftermarket cats like other parts can vary in quality and longevity.

 

32 minutes ago, nta16 said:

Unless there one that's odd I don't think the plugs will tell you much, if all have been on a rich idle they'll all show that but if one or all are worn, damaged or incorrectly gapped then that's worth knowing.

 

We'd already agreed that the plugs are irrelevant since the stem seals were replaced recently.

 

Do keep up.

On 05/12/2021 at 19:46, sepulchrave said:

 

We'd already agreed that the plugs are irrelevant since the stem seals were replaced recently.

 

Do keep up.

Totally agree I can't keep up.

 

Short answer - I didn't say to take the plugs out, in fact rather opposite.

 

Longer answer - Plugs, wouldn't be my first thought to check especially if time is tight and has already been found getting the sensors out can take a bit longer than expected, but it's always worth knowing the plugs are as they should be, but I wasn't thinking of petrol or oil but that does raise a good point about new seals. 

 

My extended experience (of parts particularly) is -

. parts can break or be faulty at any point (often from new in my case)

. wrong parts can be sent and fitted

. the correct part can be of the wrong material (I had a seal made of neoprene instead of Viton in a part, 20k units sold over 20 years and I get one of the very few (perhaps two) so the engine had to come out again to get at it, pence worth of rubber in reality, from a UK specialist motorsport engineering company)

. new parts fitted are best suspected rather than dismissed because they're new

. things can got wrong with parts fitting not noticed at the time

. there can be more than problem in the same issue or there can be a 2nd (3rd, 4th, ... )

. this is DIY work so no cost per hour (or part of) or professional ego (it'll be this) time constraint, cutting corners, adding more parts for profit or to cover ego or poor diagnostics or arrogance

. at this point only scan tool info is adding at short term fuel trim at idle (I've forgot now what was going on with exhaust sensors).

 

There another quick post, I could write volumes on poor quality parts and work on just the cars I've had.

 

Edited 15 December, 20214 yr by nta16
spelling

Circumlocution much?

If I have to change cat out I know its sll one piece from flexi and cat rtc but eill I be able to just remove that section or will I need to remove back box and middle box first ???

11 minutes ago, Stewartasb said:

If I have to change cat out I know its sll one piece from flexi and cat rtc but eill I be able to just remove that section or will I need to remove back box and middle box first ???

 

You can just remove the front pipe section. It is joined to the rest of the exhaust by this type of sleeve clamp...

 

Edited 5 December, 20214 yr by TMB

That's better then cheers bud will try the other 02 sensor tomorrow first I'm expecting it to be a pia to get off especially with only being up on jack stands so limited room to give it some welly with the spanner lol.

17 minutes ago, Stewartasb said:

That's better then cheers bud will try the other 02 sensor tomorrow first I'm expecting it to be a pia to get off especially with only being up on jack stands so limited room to give it some welly with the spanner lol.

Pre-soak with a good penetrating/releasing agent for long as possible in advance of work (not WD-40 Mult-Use if you can PlusGas or GT85 is better, more uses). - https://gt85.co.uk/gt85-original/ - https://www.plusgas.co.uk/en-gb

Clean or wire brush fitting as required.

Soak again with good penetrating/releasing agent.

Try to slightly tighten fitting first to crack rust/crud seal

Then hopefully loosen, if not repeat from start - let the chemicals do the hard work.

 

Edited 5 December, 20214 yr by nta16
hyperlinks

1 hour ago, sepulchrave said:

Circumlocution much?

circumlocution - the use of many words where fewer would do - yes

 

- especially in a deliberate attempt to be vague or evasive. - NO

 

I may have found the issue ive not been underneath yet as weather to bad but on running scanner I had bonnet open and noticed some exhaust fumes coming up and it appears they are coming from just below where the flexi section is so im assuming there is a split and this would cause the issues im having so will be changing out the top section with the cat as its all one piece.

Can anyone tell me what size of pipe connector I need to get when I change out as would rather put a new connector on as well when I swap top pipe thanks.

5 hours ago, Stewartasb said:

some exhaust fumes coming up and it appears they are coming from just below where the flexi section is so im assuming

Don't assume, check and at least double check instead.

 

Are you sure they are exhaust fumes and if so that they are coming from where you think and not elsewhere, don't assume.

 

If you're changing that part anyway you'll find out when the old parts is off the car as you should see evidence and when the new part is fitted it should resolve that problem if it was present.

 

I only say im assuming as ive been unable to go underneath to make certain due to high winds and heavy rain and im not going under a car on jacks in those conditions lol. Point im making is when you have your bonnet up there should be no exhaust smoke coming up out the bonnet so its leaking and as far as I could see it was from this area but of course I will check correctly as soon as im able to get underneath 

36 minutes ago, Stewartasb said:

I only say im assuming as ive been unable to go underneath to make certain due to high winds and heavy rain and im not going under a car on jacks in those conditions lol. Point im making is when you have your bonnet up there should be no exhaust smoke coming up out the bonnet so its leaking and as far as I could see it was from this area but of course I will check correctly as soon as im able to get underneath 

 

A leaking exhaust would certainly explain your symptoms.

 

I wouldn't bother getting under it, take it straight to a fast fit place and let them get it up in the air and show you.

10 hours ago, Stewartasb said:

 

Can anyone tell me what size of pipe connector I need to get when I change out as would rather put a new connector on as well when I swap top pipe thanks.

 

45X95MM

Part number 1K0 253 141 K

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224673814778?hash=item344f9a58fa:g:aGwAAOSwvrphgQzA

1 hour ago, sepulchrave said:

 

A leaking exhaust would certainly explain your symptoms.

 

I wouldn't bother getting under it, take it straight to a fast fit place and let them get it up in the air and show you.

Yeah true weather is so bad atm as you say best get it up high to see properly thanks for the input everyone 😀

Ok so got round to the furbie today ive now got the top pipe/cat off it was leaking at the flexi pipe and a bit at the gasket as well so that explains the issues hopefully. Issue im having is the flared joint on the middle silencer that the cat pipe goes into had 2 clamps on it and its been squashed in quite a bit so im now not able to slip the top pipe in. Is there any helpful hints out there as to how I can flare this joint back out,I did phone 2 local garages close to me but they not interested they just want me to buy a new middle section which im loathe to do as this one is in really good condition.

If you just want to flare the end of a pipe out you can buy (borrow?) pipe flares (kits), claims to take out clamp dents, just one example. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164139341975

 

Edited 15 December, 20214 yr by nta16

34 minutes ago, nta16 said:

If you just want to flare the end of a pipe out you can buy (borrow?) pipe flares (kits), claims to take out clamp dents, just one example. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/164139341975

 

I've just thought, I'm not sure how useful they'd be for DIY I suppose it depends on pipe wall thickness and hardness, I'm not sure if DIY you'd need to use a long lever and have the exhaust in a vice, you'd have to check, or perhaps it's easier than I think.

 

Edited 15 December, 20214 yr by nta16