Hello guys,

 

I have a problem every day in the morning.

I give the key to turn it on and it just makes "vrrumm vruumm vrummm", noise of wanting to turn it on but it won't start.

To turn it on I have to push it and put the second one in, otherwise it won't turn on.

 

I changed the oil filter, and the gas pump motor.

 

I've already confirmed the candles for new ones.
I've already made an addition of cable from the starter motor to the battery. Starter motor seems to have good power when trying to start. 

 

Possible Problems ?

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- Starter Brushes ?

- Intake collector sensor ?

 

I hope you can give me a help.

Thank you.

 

55 minutes ago, Joob said:

Starter motor seems to have good power when trying to start.

Ok, does the engine turn over, or just the starter motor?

The engine turn over.

I've already noticed something, which I now remember, and if I turn the key 3/5x without turning it on and after that I start the engine, the car starts.

It sometimes gets a little unstable when it is turned on, and when it speeds up and the tip falls off, it wobbles a little too.

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I've already noticed something, which I now remember, and if I turn the key 3/5x without turning it on and after that I start the engine, the car starts.

It doesn't always work that way, but sometimes it does.

What type of engine do you have? Carburetor? SPI? MPI?

Do you have LPG installed maybe?

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What type of engine do you have? Carburetor? SPI? MPI?

It's a MPI

 

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Do you have LPG installed maybe?

No, I don't have that.

There are kind MPI users here will gladly help you. I have a carburetor engine.

 

I'm not an expert but with MPI systems, when there is a problem they always check sensors and/or their electrical connections. MPI engine solely depends on sensors for working properly. It doesn't have a distributor for example. There is a sensor over the gearbox that's getting info from flywheel to determine the pistons' position.

Maybe I'm wrong but even a fault with that sensor could possibly cause a problem like you described. Because if the ECU doesn't know the piston position, it can't fire the spark plugs.

 

Like I said, I'm not expert. Let's wait and see what other owners think about this.

Right and I appreciate the answer.

I understand, yap, I also changed the gearbox sensor, at 1 year I think.

Like this..

 

 

yet I haven't changed the sensor map, like this..

 

I've also thought about the water sensor, having the wrong resistance ?

That's good. The more info you provide about the car's current situation the more accurate info you will get from the users.

 

13 minutes ago, Joob said:

I've also thought about the water sensor, having the wrong resistance ?

Wouldn't that affect the temp gauge inside the dashboard? Does your temp gauge work normally after starting the car? Does it reach normal operating temperature?

 

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Wouldn't that affect the temp gauge inside the dashboard? Does your temp gauge work normally after starting the car? Does it reach normal operating temperature?

I think yes. (or not kaka)
I just think it's strange that the temperature  / temperature meter in the quadrant always remains at 70º, it doesn't pass the first 2 dashes.

For example, I've never seen his temperature like this picture. 

 

1 hour ago, Joob said:

I just think it's strange that the temperature  / temperature meter in the quadrant always remains at 70º, it doesn't pass the first 2 dashes.

For example, I've never seen his temperature like this picture. 

That may be a separate issue, but your photo is showing a typical normal running temperature. If you don't get that then there's something else wrong. Does the heater work, and does the radiator get hot?

3 hours ago, R_Blue said:

There is a sensor over the gearbox that's getting info from flywheel to determine the pistons' position.

 

You mean the Crank sensor?

This one is a "Do not touch" sensor, you must not remove it without a serous reason or overtighten it.

One guy try to use it as an Antitheef measure and that cause him huge problems.

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That may be a separate issue, but your photo is showing a typical normal running temperature. If you don't get that then there's something else wrong. Does the heater work, and does the radiator get hot?

No, these picture is an example.. my pointer does not pass the second white line.

Yes, heater wor and radiator hot too .. 

 

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You mean the Crank sensor?

This one is a "Do not touch" sensor, you must not remove it without a serous reason or overtighten it.

One guy try to use it as an Antitheef measure and that cause him huge problems.

 

Oh yes, crank sensor.

Before changing this sensor, it already had some of this problem.

40 minutes ago, Joob said:

No, these picture is an example.. my pointer does not pass the second white line.

Yes, heater wor and radiator hot too ..

At that rate I'm pretty certain you have an issue with either the engine temperature sensor or the gauge/cluster electronics. Fixing/replacing the sensor is easier.

3 hours ago, KenONeill said:

At that rate I'm pretty certain you have an issue with either the engine temperature sensor or the gauge/cluster electronics. Fixing/replacing the sensor is easier.

 

Exactly, that's what I'm going to do tomorrow, I'm going to buy one sensor temperature and test it out. because the temperature has never risen like the image above (since I have the car)

9 hours ago, Joob said:

I'm going to buy one sensor temperature and test it out.

 

Code 6U0 919 501 B

Blue ring for hot climates.

10 hours ago, Joob said:

Exactly, that's what I'm going to do tomorrow, I'm going to buy one sensor temperature and test it out. because the temperature has never risen like the image above (since I have the car)

 

This issue is probably caused by thermostat valve, that's quite common issue.

 

Temperature sensor has two outputs, one for dashboard and one for ECU. Without diagnostics, you don't have way to check its readings.

 

I suspect the cause is crank sensor, if it was swapped with replica instead of genuine part, it could fail again. It is one of crucial parts to get engine running, others being ignition module and fuel pump.

 

It could also immobiliser issue, but in that case, it would start for a second and then cut off.

Edited 18 November, 20214 yr by Papez

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Code 6U0 919 501 B

Blue ring for hot climates.

I bought one... I noticed it didn't have this ring, I'll see what I have on car... I can also change at the store.

 

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This issue is probably caused by thermostat valve, that's quite common issue.

 

Temperature sensor has two outputs, one for dashboard and one for ECU. Without diagnostics, you don't have way to check its readings.

 

I suspect the cause is crank sensor, if it was swapped with replica instead of genuine part, it could fail again. It is one of crucial parts to get engine running, others being ignition module and fuel pump.

 

It could also immobiliser issue, but in that case, it would start for a second and then cut off.

I even think I've had the car for 2 years and not for 1 year as I said before.

He already had this symptom at the time, but it was rare for him to do that, at the time I bought him. After a while, I changed this sensor and even so it sometimes did.

 

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I suspect the cause is crank sensor, if it was swapped with replica instead of genuine part, it could fail again. It is one of crucial parts to get engine running, others being ignition module and fuel pump.

 

It could also immobiliser issue, but in that case, it would start for a second and then cut off.

I've already changed the fuel pump, the filter, the starter is ok, it pulls the engine turns, fuel arrives at the injectors and the carburetor (it has both).. I've already changed the battery despite the old age, being reasonably good, I had a new battery. I have already added another direct cable from the starter motor to the battery.

 

I just didn't change the map sensor (from the intake manifold) and this water sensor.

I don't believe it's from the crank sensor, because this problem only happens in the morning at 8h when I go out and it stays still 8h, and when I pick it up, it turns on, only in the morning does this happen, when it stops around 14h and in the cold of the night.

 

 

I'll change that sensor today (at night (22.30h)) .. and tomorrow in the morning I'll test again and I'll give u the feedback.

On 17/11/2021 at 11:23, Joob said:

To turn it on I have to push it and put the second one in, otherwise it won't turn on.

 

Could you please further explain this part?

 

33 minutes ago, Joob said:

fuel arrives at the injectors and the carburetor (it has both)..

 

What do you mean by "it has both"?

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To turn it on I have to push it and put the second one in, otherwise it won't turn on.

that is, you have to push the car on a straight line or ramp, enter and put the 2nd gear for it to engage/wake up and vrrum vrrrumm

 

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fuel arrives at the injectors and the carburetor (it has both)..

I mean that fuel enters both the carburetor and the injectors

 

it's like this example

25 minutes ago, Joob said:

that is, you have to push the car on a straight line or ramp, enter and put the 2nd gear for it to engage/wake up and vrrum vrrrumm

 

Isn't this bad for your catalytic converter?

2 hours ago, Joob said:

that is, you have to push the car on a straight line or ramp, enter and put the 2nd gear for it to engage/wake up and vrrum vrrrumm

 

So you need to help starter by pushing it down the hill? 

 

2 hours ago, Joob said:

it's like this example

 

There's no carburettor, that thing on the top is just a throttle valve.

On 17/11/2021 at 12:23, Joob said:

I give the key to turn it on and it just makes "vrrumm vruumm vrummm", noise of wanting to turn it on but it won't start.

How about posting a video of what is happening? Your information is not clear at all.

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Isn't this bad for your catalytic converter?

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So you need to help starter by pushing it down the hill? 

That's the only way I can turn it on... pushing it in a straight line or downhill, I put on the 2nd gear, put the clutch in and it turns on...

 

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There's no carburettor, that thing on the top is just a throttle valve.

yes there is the butterfly, I thought there was something else to mix with.

 

 

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How about posting a video of what is happening? Your information is not clear at all.

It's simple, the engine don't turn on in the morning, only in the morning.. the engine turns but not turn on.

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Code 6U0 919 501 B

Blue ring for hot climates.

I changed that sensor, and still doesn't call in the morning (tested today)

 

I then took it and went to measure the admission sensor

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I took a measurement, with the tip on the first pin, counting from the left side to the right.

In this case the tip of the multimeter is on the first pin from above and with the other end I was measuring the remaining 3 pins.

 

And gave me these results (I don't know if the measurement is done that way.)

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Pin       Pin

1     >     2     =   395 ohm's

1     >     3     =   795 ohm's

1     >     4     =   365 ohm's

 

It's normal ?

 

Note: I also noticed that when I get engine on, the idle is a little low / unstable (like ~700rpm), I accelerate to 2,000 rpm's / 2,500 rpm's (for example), accelerate again, and the idle drops and is unstable for a few seconds and then comes back to be stable, like at ~850 rpm's (more or less)

 

I think it might have something to do with this sensor, I say.