Hi All

As per the title, the heater blower has decided not to work today.

Checked the fuses and are OK

Scanned with Carista and got the above code.

May or may not be relivant but car would'nt start yesterday with flat battery, charged overnite and worked today all ok except the blower.

I think the battery is on the way out as it has needed topping up this winter as the car unfortunatly only does short trips ( I know worst thing for a diesel but we neeed it for towing)

 

So is the blower due to the failing battery or just broken? any way to reboot the climate?

Hi Yeti333

 

It may be a coincidence that you have a faulty fan motor, as the code implies.  If there is excess friction, they draw an abnormally high current which can be sensed by the control unit.  When it gets too high it cries foul. These motors are normally accessible from under the dash without too much dismantling.  The type I am familiar with have a bayonet style fitting, where you release a plastic tab, rotate the body 10 or 15 degrees (tap with hammer and wood) and then pull them out of their cylindrical housing. The motors will be cheaper from a factor than a main dealer, though I would recommend a known brand like Marelli or Delco.

 

However its just possible that the two things are connected.  Heater blowers take a fair bit of current (e.g. 30 Amps on full whack) and maybe the "system" has decided that it's best to temporarily disable it (not being  a priority load) until the battery is deemed to have a better state of charge.  But I have to say that a fault code would not be expected in these circumstances. I have had this disabling happen to the radio when listening to it when parked up.  Alternatively, the climate control may have objected to a very low system voltage at some point, but I would expect it to be able to eventually recover without intervention.  You could try toggling it between manual and auto and between different modes to encourage this. 

 

Don't take this as gospel, it's only an idea !

Edited 5 January, 20224 yr by Austin 7

I had low battery problems, with stuff shutting down coupled with an actual radio fault.

I put the battery on charge  (C-tek)  once a month at the moment due to low usage,

and colder weather.

Thanks for the replies.

I will investigate more at the weekend, check the voltage with the engine running and get to the fan to see if its free and if there are any volts getting to it.

Can't imagine the fan not working for low volts with the engine running but you never know. The batterry i think is the original and is a bit tired.

I might try disconnecting the batttery for a while to get the whole car to re boot.

 

i will update with the results.

So. Situation got worse today, My good lady went to go shopping, car started fine, drove 4 miles to pick someone up, went to re start the car and wouln't even turn over.

I've fitted a new battery and all is well but the blower fault is still there.

 

Does anyone know if 2013 2.0 170 diesel non stop start needs the battery to be coded? ( I will start another thread for this also)

 

 

 

 

 

1 hour ago, Yeti333 said:

Does anyone know if 2013 2.0 170 diesel non stop start needs the battery to be coded?

 

If the car doesn't have stop/start, then no coding is needed or indeed possible when replacing the battery

12 hours ago, langers2k said:

 

If the car doesn't have stop/start, then no coding is needed or indeed possible when replacing the battery

Two people have said this now and I would like to belive it but my previous 2009 Audi S4 had no stop start but needed the battery coding?

Maybe the Audi system was more advanced.

33 minutes ago, Yeti333 said:

Two people have said this now and I would like to belive it

 

 

This is the page Ross-tech have for battery coding: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Battery_Replacement

 

For a Yeti, they would use the "61-Battery Regulation using CAN" version but this is only present on a Yeti with stop/start. If you have a scan tool, check if module 61 exists

 

Example scan from a 2014 Yeti with no battery monitoring:

https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/20509/

 

Example scan from a 2017 Yeti with battery monitoring via module 61:

https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/7267/

 

9 hours ago, langers2k said:

 

 

This is the page Ross-tech have for battery coding: http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Battery_Replacement

 

For a Yeti, they would use the "61-Battery Regulation using CAN" version but this is only present on a Yeti with stop/start. If you have a scan tool, check if module 61 exists

 

Example scan from a 2014 Yeti with no battery monitoring:

https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/20509/

 

Example scan from a 2017 Yeti with battery monitoring via module 61:

https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/7267/

 

Thanks for that.

That's the sort of information I was looking for. It would be easy if I had VCDS but I have to borrow it from a work colleague, and I try to not to pester him unless it's an emergency.

You can appreciate my caution from having to code the Audi battery. 

I still have my doubts about the need to code batteries unless you are doing something like changing from old style Lead acid to AGM or vica versa

I only have Carista so I am limited to that for coding things.

Any Idea on the code for the heater blower? I haven't been able to investigate it today as it has been raining ****istantly here all day.

 

Edit to add found a scan from the Yeti

01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
10-Park/Steer Assist -- Status: Malfunction 0010
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: OK 0000
22-AWD -- Status: OK 0000
25-Immobilizer -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
44-Steering Assist -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: OK 0000
55-Headlight Range -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
69-Trailer -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000
77-Telephone -- Status: OK 0000

 

And for more confusion one from the Audi.   No 61?

01-Engine -- Status: OK 0000
03-ABS Brakes -- Status: OK 0000
04-Steering Angle -- Status: OK 0000
05-Acc/Start Auth. -- Status: OK 0000
08-Auto HVAC -- Status: OK 0000
09-Cent. Elect. -- Status: OK 0000
10-Park/Steer Assist -- Status: OK 0000
15-Airbags -- Status: OK 0000
16-Steering wheel -- Status: OK 0000
17-Instruments -- Status: OK 0000
19-CAN Gateway -- Status: Malfunction 0010
30-Special Function II -- Status: OK 0000
42-Door Elect, Driver -- Status: OK 0000
46-Central Conv. -- Status: OK 0000
47-Sound System -- Status: OK 0000
52-Door Elect, Pass. -- Status: Malfunction 0010
53-Parking Brake -- Status: OK 0000
55-Headlight Range -- Status: OK 0000
56-Radio -- Status: OK 0000
5F-Information Electr. -- Status: OK 0000
62-Door, Rear Left -- Status: OK 0000
72-Door, Rear Right -- Status: OK 0000

 

Edited 8 January, 20224 yr by Yeti333
more info

I think a 2009 S4 would fit under "19-CAN Gateway using CAN" on the page I linked.

 

However, your Yeti won't have a battery management subsystem under the CAN gateway so those instructions won't apply. I would imagine Carista can show subsystems but I've never used it to provide any detailed instructions.

 

Looking online:

9485831 - Air Blower
B10BE 07 [008] - Mechanical Failure

 

I'd suggest removing the air blower to check for debris and it's condition. At a guess, it's seized and needs replacing...

Thanks for the reply Langers.

Yes I'm sure you are correct about the S4, sounds familiar but it was about 5 years ago.

I am an amature with VCDS as I said I only use it infrequently at times of trouble!

I removed the blower this morning and by the time I had manoeuvred it out It was turning but a little stiff and it would spin when powered up.

I removed the motor and it did look a little rusty (see pic) I cleaned it all up and applied some 3in1 to the bearings and it felt much better.

Put it all back together and all seems fine now.

Not to bad to get at, removed glove box and one piece of heater ducting, just a bit fiddly to get it in and out of the housing.

Edited 9 January, 20224 yr by Yeti333
piccy

Hi Yeti333

 

Glad you have sorted out the fan.  The bearings are normally sintered and are porous enough to hold a little oil, but this doesn't last forever.

 

I am curious about the dust and rust.  Isn't the blower supposed to be downstream of a pollen filter that ought to stop all that ?  Maybe the filter got flooded and soggy on some previous occasion ?

Hi Austin 7

No the motor and fan are upstream of the pollen filter, the air is drawn in under the scuttle at the front window at the nearside corner, then pulled straight down to the fan/motor then across to the pollen filter and into the HAVC.

The rust on the motor shaft looks much worse than it was, there was a lot of dust on the fan, But the car is 8 years old.

I don't think it had ever been really wet.

There was a little what appeared to be condensation inside the motor housing, should have taken more photos.

The motor shaft was just bare mild steel so some rust was pretty inevitable, the other end was not rusty at all and the bearings felt fine, maybe it was a combination of the low battery and slightly dragging bearings that made it fault out?