Gentlemen, i have a problem with my gear shift lever, it's too lose some times and when i am in Neutral and move it left-right makes a clang noise. I have bought the whole kit and went it to the mechanic to install it, for 1,5 year everything was fine but suddenly it get loose again. I saw when the car was on the lift for the lambda sensor that the other mechanic took a piece of iron (lever) and push it back, now it's Ok but i wonder for how long?

 

The VW code for that part is 6U0711605A, below is the No 29.

 

 

Here is the part, inside the round cavity is the problem.

 

 

What must i do so the rod don't pop-up often?

 

Would it depend on how Parts 26 and 27(?) relate to Part 29 and how worn or not any or all three parts are, I do not know but might it only be something to do with the ring or ball joint shown in the image of Part 29.

 

Edited 24 April, 20224 yr by nta16

This is the kit that i had bought.

 

 

 

The gear shift lever was more stabilized with this but later start to be loose in N (moving in left-right).

 

 

6U0711965 (No 26)

 

 

6U0711460 (No 27, looks like a securing clip)

 

The mechanic just pushed something with the lever and buttoned, the point is how to make it stay in the proper position without to be unbuttoned while shifting.

Only a guess without seeing what and how 29 fixes but 27 might be a weak point but you would need to see from underneath really.

 

The 6U0711460 (No 27) must hold that ''T'' to the gear shift lever, must be broken now.

Tomorrow i will go to the mechanic to lift the car although due to Easter holidays must have already arrange other customers and explain to him (via the above chart) the situation.

Maybe he can do a patent since this clip i don't think i can found it in the local market in the few remaining days till my trip for 1st of May.

Here is the guilty-guy.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The mechanic said that only a new part will solve the plug-unplug problem, can not do any kind of patent.

It looks a right pain to get at but if you had a lift you could try as a temporary measure perhaps bent wire or cable-ties perhaps with a couple sets of needle-noses pliers and time and patience.  As an owner you have a lot more incentive, time and lower labour costs than a mechanic.

 

9 minutes ago, nta16 said:

As an owner you have a lot more incentive, time and lower labour costs than a mechanic

 

Yes but i don't have a lift, i live in block of flats.

 

Another weird thing is that the code from TORPAN for this part is 110 905

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/194908191374?hash=item2d616efa8e:g:d1oAAOSwSbxiL0B6

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/114477374556?mkevt=1&mkpid=0&emsid=e11050.m43.l1123&mkcid=7&ch=osgood&euid=6c9777a954494d43bcff1d03ac5e3df5&bu=43791988159&osub=-1~1&crd=20220423121336&segname=11050&sojTags=ch%3Dch%2Cbu%3Dbu%2Cosub%3Dosub%2Ccrd%3Dcrd%2Csegname%3Dsegname%2Cchnl%3Dmkcid#vi-desc-maincntr

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255430440169?hash=item3b78d734e9:g:d1oAAOSwSbxiL0B6#vi-desc-maincntr

 

but when i tried in a parts store that i am customer with the same code

https://www.trodo.com/ball-head-gearshift-linkage-topran-110-905

 

they say: This product not suitable with you car! Please check other product for you car on Transmission Control.

 

What a mess! 😠

I thought you were after 'Securing cap 6U0711460', who really has it in stock and real cost I do not know but if NOS of good quality at 0.98 Euro (plus P&P of course) I would buy a few spare for stock.

 

https://www.oemvwshop.com/6u0711460-securing-cap-p321662/

 

https://www.maxspeed.ae/carparts/product/VW/6U0711460/

 

https://www.mecatechnic.com/en-GB/6u0-711-460_C231556.htm

 

36 minutes ago, nta16 said:

I thought you were after 'Securing cap 6U0711460',

 

 

I saw that part, was present but isn't this the problem. The rod does not secure in place inside the cavity, there is a round safety inside and maybe is worn.

https://imgur.com/ncQDFpB

You push the T part, plugs and after few days pop-up out, the plastic clip isn't so strong so it can not hold that metal part clipped.

 

On 24/04/2022 at 09:07, nta16 said:

I do not know but might it only be something to do with the ring or ball joint shown in the image of Part 29

As in photo below, are there two split rings supplied with the part or only one, is/are the split ring(s) fitted inside the ball joint of Part 29, has a previous split ring been left on the ball of the static part (same way a previous oil filler seal can be left on an oil filter housing).

 

I am not sure where it goes but is part No 26 (6U0711965) still fitted and in good condition.

 

 

The first (the factory one) was worn so i ordered via Ebay the same, TOPRAN and when came i saw that NO rings was inside, i email to the seller, blah blah and nothing happened so the mechanic make a patent which lasted few years.

Now i ordered a new one with a note for that ring although almost every seller has the same photo.

 

 

Let's hope that i will have the proper one this time and as for the Securing cap the mechanic said has not the strength to hold the joint if the ring inside ''is done''. 

8 minutes ago, D.FYLAKTOS said:

the mechanic said has not the strength to hold the joint if the ring inside ''is done''. 

Yes, but I thought you had recently bought (fitted) the kit below, did it include one (or two) split rings already?

 

 

One part often helps another so, if it is in that area, is part No 26 (6U0711965) still fitted and in good condition, if not renew it.

1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Yes, but I thought you had recently bought (fitted) the kit below, did it include one (or two) split rings already?

 

 

The above photo is not mine, found in web and posted for informational purposes.

This is mine:

 

 

Those 2 O-rings are in place, the bolt is tightened, OK till this point.

Look higher the semi-sphere, is unbuttoned from the end of the rod, one push and is buttoned but since the inside metal ring is worned out after few weeks is poped out again.

It may sound daft but I did a temporary fix on a friend's Renault 5 that had a similar arrangement using a piece of string wrapped round the rod and tied behind the piece it fitted to.   It was supposed to be temporary but actually lasted about three years.

10 hours ago, skomaz said:

using a piece of string wrapped round the rod and tied behind the piece it fitted to.

 

I suggest that to the mechanic (using galvanized wire) and said ''No'' but deep inside me i thought it was a good temporary solution till the new part comes.

I suggested bent wire or cable-ties earlier but now I am not sure which the problem part is.

 

Does the T-piece need one or two split rings and and is/are it/they fitted?   Is part No 26 (6U0711965) still fitted and in good condition?

 

I cannot make much out in the photos, so could it be that the mechanic means one or two split rings are needed?

 

OR - does the mechanic mean the part that needs renewing is the ball part (presumably part no.1(?) as it is worn?

 

The end of the rod was covered wirh grease (to be honest i don't know why) and i couldn't see more about it.

The ring is one, inside the ball cavity has only one groove, no space for 2 rings.

I did not think there would be two split rings but that photo shows two for some reason and it is best to check.

 

I can imagine grease where there is metal against metal but is that what the workshop manual calls for?

 

Perhaps the T-piece is made of a softer material designed to wear before part no. 1(?).

 

I thought the split ring and/or T-piece would most likely be the guilty parties but again I do not see part no. 27 and fully understand where it goes and its function (also do not see 26 in photos).

 

No26 is like sponge, never seen it before.

No27 is present, i saw it, has dropped down in the base of the T and it's not visible in my photos.

The ring and the slot inside the cavity are one, posted separetely in one e-shop photo maybe for informational purposes, here are two examples:

 

 

 

The No28 (the T) looks like bronze but i think is alloy with steel.

Is 26 perhaps some sort of shield if grease is needed on the ball joint.  I never fully rely on parts diagrams as they can often have anomalies, the drawing of clip 26 looks like it has tabs to hold it to a location perhaps but the photo of the current part looks different.  I expect the full details have been lost in time.

 

13 hours ago, nta16 said:

I never fully rely on parts diagrams as they can often have anomalies,

 

the drawing of clip 26 looks like it has tabs to hold it to a location perhaps but the photo of the current part looks different. 

 

 

The ''real world'' inside the repair shop often is different than a blueprint and many times ETKA codes make things worst, keep in mund the mess with lambda sensors B C E (with the same prefix) and what this cost me in money ant time.

 

I suggest for some wire or a tie-wrap as a temporary solution till the new part comes and the mechanic said no, i wish i had a lift available to make some repairs by myself.

The new part has been bought from ebay.Uk, all i have to do is to wait 2 weeks while hearing on parking the ''clang'' noise from the gearshift rod.

Perhaps until the new parts are fitted you could try easing on the number of gear changes you make while driving, parking up and starting the car.

On 30/04/2022 at 11:37, nta16 said:

Perhaps until the new parts are fitted you could try easing on the number of gear changes you make while driving, parking up and starting the car.

 

No problem so far with gear changes, the only issue is the "clang" noise while moving the stick left-right in N gear.

Could the clang be because of missing parts 26?