I just want to pick some other brains.

 

My daughter's FII from 2009 has a new problem. It has front electric windows and manual rears. Both front windows suddenly stopped working. They cannot be controlled from either driver door or passenger door switches. Also the mirror adjustment stopped working.

VCDS is clear, but then the FII does not have separate controllers - STG 42 or 52.

 

I have looked through wiring diagrams and also flicked up old threads on here.

 

A common problem with the FII seems to be the wiring, which I have not looked at yet. I have not opened the doors at all for this.

It is likely that the wire faults in the rubber bellows disables both the windows AND mirrors at the same time?

 

I could not really find a fault that would take out both functions.

The J386 - door control unit - will control windows and switches on both sides, but does not have a link to the mirrors, or does it?

 

Any ideas?

 

 

Edited 24 April, 20224 yr by 26DIPP

Have a look at fuse 11, and the black/blue wire from it via pin 7 of the 28-way at a-pillar. 

Thinner of the brown earths also possibly implicated.

 

Edited 24 April, 20224 yr by Pete_Ex-Wino

I forgot to say, I had checked the fuses first. Fuse 11, 51 and 52.

 

Good point. The earth connection is common to both the mirrors and the windows.

 

I had another look at a wiring diagram and I might have missed a connection from J386 to the mirror regulator switches..

Edited 24 April, 20224 yr by 26DIPP

Yep.

There are surely more mk2 Fabias driving around with broken wiring than fully intact wiring in those door bellows. Proper cockup of a design those 'straight across' bellows.

I opened the door bellows today.

 

2 wires had gone completely - black/blue coming from fuse 11 and black/red from the BCM for the heated mirror - and 2 wires were starting to crack - red/white main 12V supply and brown.

 

I had fixed the black/blue and the black/red before. They had now snapped a few mm above my old solder joints.

I put extra length wire in this time and hopefully it will be the last time.

use pure copper wire with silicon insulation for that stuff, should last longer than the aluminium wires with hard rubber shielding in that application.

the wires snap after the solder joints because the joint doesn't flex, so the weak point is just after it, especially in this location