Having put a post on items required to do/need new on my projects section, I have finally bought a new AMC cylinder head, sitting under my computer desk at home.

I would appreciate any thoughts on what I can use from the still running engine cylinder head, I will be sourcing new valves, not sure what brand tho, spoke to TPS and not very helpfull at all.

Anyhow obviously a new head gasket, thought it was 3 hole but it's 2 , have a brand spanking boxed AMC camshaft kit, bought second hand for a song which makes a change last year.

how do I get the injectors and glow plugs out, obviously as carefull as possible, might be stuck!!

New valve springs. what about the valve collets, new seals for the valves and glow plugs, Gates camshaft and  water pump kit would be my pick,.

Are there any bolts I must not re use, or use a thread lock on either new or re used.

It's taken 3 years to get to this stage but my local mechanic suddenly passed away 4 years ago and he would have told me .

Any help advice would be very much appreciated, Titanium man has helped as have some other members but as we know I don't want to bother him at the moment with my trivial stuff.

Another thing It smokes under load when it was last on the road with my Son,  tuned up poorly in my opinion, probably over fuelled,can I swap the engine controll thingy (used one)without programming it to this car) standard map one.

Thanks in advance 

Martin.

 

You need new bolts for the injectors and pillars, you don't need new collets, valve brand doesn't matter, just order them from FPS.

I don't know what you mean about how do you get the glow plugs and injectors out, you just undo and remove them before you remove the head from the block so you don't have to hold the head still.

To swap the ECU I think you would need the 4 digit code off the existing and "new" ECU to allow immobilizer matching (VAG Key Login can do this by reading the existing via the OBD2, and swapping the clusters out which can then be read even though it will not start, is what I have personally used but is not cheap) - Ross Tech site gives recoding instructions for the Immobiliser III and IV via VagCom - I am unsure which versions is on the Mk1 ECU. Dependant on your skill level with computers, I would suggest requesting a copy of a standard map either on here or through the net, downloading a copy of your own map (MPPS personally used) allowing you to then load both up through the free software programme VAG EDC15P which can give a list of differences in the 2. This would allow editing of the existing map down to a std if diffeences are found -  remembering to keep safe a copy of the original map off your car. VAG EDC15P also has the facility to run a "curve" of the loaded maps which in my case reflected the original and bought Blacksmoke - supplier not resulting tailpipe output - maps. There is the option of trying the immobilizer off mapping or there are plug ins for the OBD also but unsure how robust these are.

 Extreme care and confidence is required using any methods that interact with the ECU map, as you could end up with a car that will not start.

 Is there a specific reason for the head swap, as this does not appear to be detailed in the post.

9 hours ago, KeithCheetham said:

To swap the ECU I think you would need the 4 digit code off the existing and "new" ECU to allow immobilizer matching (VAG Key Login can do this by reading the existing via the OBD2, and swapping the clusters out which can then be read even though it will not start, is what I have personally used but is not cheap) - Ross Tech site gives recoding instructions for the Immobiliser III and IV via VagCom - I am unsure which versions is on the Mk1 ECU. Dependant on your skill level with computers, I would suggest requesting a copy of a standard map either on here or through the net, downloading a copy of your own map (MPPS personally used) allowing you to then load both up through the free software programme VAG EDC15P which can give a list of differences in the 2. This would allow editing of the existing map down to a std if diffeences are found -  remembering to keep safe a copy of the original map off your car. VAG EDC15P also has the facility to run a "curve" of the loaded maps which in my case reflected the original and bought Blacksmoke - supplier not resulting tailpipe output - maps. There is the option of trying the immobilizer off mapping or there are plug ins for the OBD also but unsure how robust these are.

 Extreme care and confidence is required using any methods that interact with the ECU map, as you could end up with a car that will not start.

 Is there a specific reason for the head swap, as this does not appear to be detailed in the post.

Hi, it suffered head lift with combustion gasses into the coolant , proven by garage whilst my son used the car (in for cam belt change)

I swapped my late recently  deceased (at the time) Dad's car for the Vrs, which has been sorned ever since.

Dark side develoments tuned it up for my Son but never mentioned about stronger head bolts, it started using water just prior to the garage finding out.

I have also bought a kit to test for gasses that confirmed head lift.

Also appreciate your info but too complicated for me to try.

Thanks

Martin

 

23 hours ago, sepulchrave said:

You need new bolts for the injectors and pillars, you don't need new collets, valve brand doesn't matter, just order them from FPS.

I don't know what you mean about how do you get the glow plugs and injectors out, you just undo and remove them before you remove the head from the block so you don't have to hold the head still.

Hi, the reason i mentioned removing the glow plugs is because I bought a second hand head with a snapped off glow plug that the seller forgot to mention or show in photo's got a full refund from the con merchant.

I just wondered if they seize in place with age.

Thanks 

Martin

Whilst you are at it, have a very good look around the turbo pipes. Bottom pipe off the turbo can split. All the others tend to develop "dodgy" connections and can pop off under boost. None of which is good for the turbo.

Inspect everything before assembly. There shouldn't be swarf or anything metallic swanning around in the head casting but at least shine a bright lamp around to check the airways and water oil/waterways you can see are clear.

On 22/05/2022 at 15:41, vindaloo said:

Whilst you are at it, have a very good look around the turbo pipes. Bottom pipe off the turbo can split. All the others tend to develop "dodgy" connections and can pop off under boost. None of which is good for the turbo.

Inspect everything before assembly. There shouldn't be swarf or anything metallic swanning around in the head casting but at least shine a bright lamp around to check the airways and water oil/waterways you can see are clear.

Hi vindaloo, I assume you are refering to the new AMC head regarding the swarf.

Yes I have read about connections that wear over time and come off suddenly, will give them a check .

Thanks

Martin