01117 load signal for alternator terminal DF BLUE WIRER IF I GOT IT RIGHT IS THE CONTROLE WIREIT HAS 11.6V ? HAVE READ IT SHOUDE BE 4.5-5.5V 

ALSO HAVE P1857 LOAD SIGNAI ERROR  MESSAGE FROM ENGINE CONTROL

AND 

P1503 LOAD SIGNAL TERMINAL DF OF GENERATOR : INPLAUSIBLE SINGAL

runs fine but rafter 10/15 min the tracks light comes on have changed the control were to alternate to eco and the plug by the wiper motor 

still have the same problem 

any help thanks 

3 minutes ago, dsm said:

BLUE WIRER IF I GOT IT RIGHT

No, Load signal/DFM is the other wire in that 2-pin connector. Voltage to expect depends on ECU/engine type I think.

Is the car a 2015 (mk3?) as in your profile, or a mk1 which finished in 2007?

 

probate is mrk 3 it an 05 i get no codes for the first 10/15 mins then the tracks hon light come on then i get the codes

 

If it's a 2005 car it's a mk1, what engine? 

Usual wire breakage area is 2-way connector pair on a bracket just near starter motor/front of gearbox. 

 

Edited 14 June, 20223 yr by Pete_Ex-Wino

yes have changed that back to eco and the pug under wiper motor the only thing that that did was give me a batter light 

Yeah the blue wire going into cabin is the one that starts up the alt and loses the battery light when broken.

 

Other brown or brown/red one that goes alt to ECU is the DFM wire. Have you got volts on that one at alternator connector when ignition is on?

yes it 12.5v

 

the alternator dose not seem to load up if you put every thing on if thats any help just puts 14.2/14 6v all the time my scan tool shows no load from generator as well 

also when the ars light come  the brakes go very hard still working but no travel on the pedai turn the car off restart all ok for 10 mins then back we go with the problems

 

Maybe a faulty voltage regulator module in the alternator then?

yes may be that was my next thing i was going to do 

the only reason i have not if i piconet the alternate the same thing happens the ars  light on and i get the full code back 

is thaer a way to test a voltage regulator module ?

thanks for the help so far 

decanted the alternator 

Many people wrongly think the DFM wire is a control from ECU that tells the alternator what to do.

It's not though,  it's just a feedback signal telling the ECU how hard it's having to work.

 yep that makes sense but by tacking the alternator out of the loop (not conetited ) i still have the problem 

sorry if i am missing some think just been on it for 2days and have run out of things to do will get a new alternator or voltage regulator module tomorrow and see what happens 

 put a new alternator (the belt tensioner is a pig ) and all good no dash lights (ars light off ) all codes are gone apart from one climate control module but its running with no problems for the first time in about 3 years other have tried and give up or did not now how to but with your help we won 

thankyou for all the help DSM 

hi back again still having a problem the only code is 01596 open circuit /short circuit to b+ 

but the problem is i do about 200/300 miles and the braces seem to go on nsf gets hot and the osr hot had new blacks front 

will the 01596 code have any thing to do with this ? the only other thing is the oil light comes on the dose off before you start the car any help thanks David

Already answered your identical post, no need to spam us to death, we can read.

sorry not spamming you just added this only one thing i don't think thats call spamming 

sorry 

 

David, don't worry, the unofficial Thread Police are very fast here but not particularly diplomatic.  This one his bark is worse than his bite and is very often helpful and correct (except for rare mistakes).

 

It will help if you change your logo(?) info to show your car year is a 2005 (if I've got that right) and perhaps help in the future if you also add more detail on the model, engine size, type, etc..

 

The brakes always want to be your number one concern - probably better to start a new thread and thread tittle for them, spamming or not. 😄

 

The oil light sounds like it's doing what it should, wants it say about this in your Driver's Handbook / Owner's Manual.  Again a separate thread would be best if required.

 

On thread topic and possibly relevant, if you've had charging problems and the car battery is low this can cause all sorts of problems with systems so do check your car battery is well charge and in good condition and the connections are good, just driving doesn't always help so do check.

 

Edited 7 July, 20223 yr by nta16

thank you battery is ok at 12.7 v and cranking at 11 .5 v charging 13-14.3 v all connections are clean will clean  all the grounds just to see if thats helps

but will put a new battery (as i have one ) on to see if that dose something also

let you now what happens 

thanks for the help David

54 minutes ago, dsm said:

will clean  all the grounds just to see if thats helps

Always worth at least checking.

 

I don't think it's worth changing the battery unless your other one is a new and fully charged battery, they're not always particularly either, so the other battery might not be as good as the one already fitted but if yours is new and fully charged and you want to check for yourself.

 

Bear in mind Breezy_Pete is the electric expert here certainly not me, and sepulchrave knows his oily onions (hope he checks them regularly) though they make him cry a lot (which ones I don't know).