Hi,

 

I wondered if anyone could help with a specific error code. I have a 1.6 TDI Greenline II with nearly 100K on the clock. It started displaying a Glow plug error last week and going into limp mode. Despite the warm weather.

 

I took it to a garage to get serviced and checked out. The mechanic said the diagnostic picked up an error two code, but nothing else, and suggested keeping an eye on it for now.

 

Does anybody know what an error two is? I'm presuming it's minor?

 

It's intermittent, and goes on a few minutes after stating the engine from cold, then a reboot switches it off and it runs perfectly. Although the start/stop function hasn't worked properly for years. It only kicks in when the car is red hot from the motorway. It annoyed me anyway, so I would switch it off.

 

However, the engine warning light came on yesterday as well. As did a message about the start/stop error on the dash when switching off. Making me think it might be the ERG valve or DPF. A common fault on older Yetis. Nightmare.

 

Can anybody advise before I take it back, or will a long-trip with my foot to the floor help?

 

I love this car, it's like a tank. I don't want to replace it just yet.

 

P.S. It's the notorious VAG dieselgate engine, I didn't get it sorted.

 

Thanks in advance,

Will

 

 

To add, I've been making a lot more short journeys recently.

22 minutes ago, Monoboy said:

Although the start/stop function hasn't worked properly for years. It only kicks in when the car is red hot from the motorway.

That'll be because of low battery voltage.
When I had a glow plug fail it brought up the engine light not the glow plug light.
 

 

25 minutes ago, Monoboy said:

The mechanic said the diagnostic picked up an error two code, but nothing else

I have never heard of that, error codes are usually 2 letters and 4 numbers.

42 minutes ago, Monoboy said:

The mechanic said the diagnostic picked up an error two code, but nothing else, and suggested keeping an eye on it for now.

Sorry to say but something is either lost in translation or he doesnt know what hes doing. Unless hes saying glow plug 2 is faulty?

 

an error code is not a single number - its between 5-8 characters with a description also. And suggesting you keep an eye on a fault is an odd one? If a glowplug has failed its relatively easy to diagnose with a ohmmeter and still fairly easy to change. So I dont get a word of what hes said or why he has said to leave it?

He must've have meant the glow plug two?

 

Although the issue with the battery intrigues me, it hasn't been replaced since new.

 

That could be a simple one.

 

Thanks for the replies.

Hi

 

Some modern diesels use glow plugs for emissions reduction as well as cold starting.  The current drawn by each of the 4 glow plugs will be individually monitored each time you start, and if out of spec (too high or low) an error code will be flagged.  Even in cold weather the engine may appear to start up fine with one plug not functioning.

 

The glow plug warning light may also be used to indicate other errors, but I have no more detail of this

 

"error two code" means nothing to me

 

Some error codes will be specific to VAG, and only a dealer's code reader or a sophisticated non-VAG reader may be able to interpret what they mean.

Thanks Austin, it looks like a trip to Skoda specialist is needed.

 

1 hour ago, Monoboy said:

He must've have meant the glow plug two?

 

Although the issue with the battery intrigues me, it hasn't been replaced since new.

So did he replace glow plug 2?
The issue with the battery is age, a battery that age is doing well to keep going.
Have you checked the voltage in the morning before starting it?
The stop/start will not operate if battery below about 12.5v.

35 minutes ago, Urrell said:

So did he replace glow plug 2?
The issue with the battery is age, a battery that age is doing well to keep going.
Have you checked the voltage in the morning before starting it?
The stop/start will not operate if battery below about 12.5v.

 

He didn't, we left it. Mainly because of cost and he didn't seem too bothered by it.

 

I've just checked the battery, 12.8v, 0.85 amps. Is that in good operable order?

 

Thanks again.

 

 

2 hours ago, ApertureS said:

Sorry to say but something is either lost in translation or he doesnt know what hes doing. Unless hes saying glow plug 2 is faulty?

 

an error code is not a single number - its between 5-8 characters with a description also. And suggesting you keep an eye on a fault is an odd one? If a glowplug has failed its relatively easy to diagnose with a ohmmeter and still fairly easy to change. So I dont get a word of what hes said or why he has said to leave it?

 

24 minutes ago, Monoboy said:

He didn't, we left it. Mainly because of cost and he didn't seem too bothered by it.

Cost!!! The original Bosch glow plugs are about £10 and as easy to change as a spark plug.
 

27 minutes ago, Monoboy said:

I've just checked the battery, 12.8v, 0.85 amps. Is that in good operable order?

What the hell is that 0.85 amps, was that connected to a charger?
You do not measure battery voltage whilst being charged.
Was that after being left overnight without starting the car?

1 minute ago, Urrell said:

Cost!!! The original Bosch glow plugs are about £10 and are as easy to change as a spark plug.
 

What the hell are that 0.85 amps? Was that connected to a charger?
You do not measure battery voltage whilst being charged.
Was that after being left overnight without starting the car?

 

I used my bike multimeter; it's used for maintaining a charge for prolonged periods of inaction.

 

The reading is an overnight, from cold. So 12.8v should be reasonably accurate.

 

As for cost, it was the risk of one snapping off, not so much the parts it labour.

51 minutes ago, Urrell said:

Cost!!! The original Bosch glow plugs are about £10 and as easy to change as a spark plug.

All depends which glow plug. Most are around £10-15 yes, but if its the single glow plug with built in pressure sensor, well thats near enough £200.

2 hours ago, ApertureS said:

All depends which glow plug. Most are around £10-15 yes, but if its the single glow plug with built in pressure sensor, well thats near enough £200.

The CAYC engine in the 1.6 TDI has the cheaper Bosch glow plugs,

3 hours ago, Monoboy said:

The reading is an overnight, from cold. So 12.8v should be reasonably accurate.

I take it the charger was not on overnight, but if not I cannot believe even a new battery would hold 12.8 volts after standing overnight without a charge.

30 minutes ago, Urrell said:

The CAYC engine in the 1.6 TDI has the cheaper Bosch glow plugs,

My bad I thought i was in the newer octavia forum! You are correct, only 4 cheap glowplugs - nice and easy to change if you know how not to snap them lol

1 hour ago, ApertureS said:

ice and easy to change if you know how not to snap them lo

I soaked my first in release fluid but it came out so easy I did not bother with the next 3 and they came out with no problem.
They are very deep and need a socket with rubber insert that grabs them.
If not sure about using too much pressure to get them out use a torque wrench.

17 hours ago, Urrell said:

I take it the charger was not on overnight, but if not I cannot believe even a new battery would hold 12.8 volts after standing overnight without a charge.

 

No, I just tested it in the morning, and that was the reading I got.

 

It's for keeping bike Bike batteries maintained but it should be accurate.

 

I took it for a run and both warning lights didn't come back on. For the first time in a week. It's a bit odd.

 

Possibly a clog or some sort of computer malfunction?

 

I runs like it always has, pulls like a train.

 

I might try another garage.

Is that image with it plugged into mains?
Strange it has an AMPS reading.

 

Edit: To save going round in circles I know that was plugged in, that is the charging voltage that will say very little about the state of the battery.
It has to be in the morning after standing all night with NO CHARGE to give a voltage that pertains to battery health. On a volt meter NOT on a charger.

Edited 19 June, 20223 yr by Urrell

Quick update on this. I had the battery properly tested and its working well within the optimum. It isn't that.

 

I had a pal run a diagnostic with his machine and it registered an emissions error, no specific code.

 

I reset it and went for a high rev spin to force a regen.

 

It ran without issue all week until yesterday. First I got a glow plug error; now, I get the engine warning.

 

So it looks like it might be a DPF problem.

 

I'll have to get it looked at it.

 

Deep sigh.

 

 

1 hour ago, Monoboy said:

I reset it and went for a high rev spin to force a regen.

Did it do a regen?
I find that it's nearly impossible to get it to do one when you want to?
Do you know when it's doing a regen?

10 minutes ago, Urrell said:

Did it do a regen?
I find that it's nearly impossible to get it to do one when you want to?
Do you know when it's doing a regen?

Yeah, I don't know. I ran it in third gear above 3000 for a few miles then took it for a 30-minute blast in the motorway.

 

The oil temperature was in the 90s.

 

That should trigger a regen, but I can't tell for sure.

It may burn off soot as a passive regen but it will not trigger an active regen, these only happen when the soot loading exceeds the threshold and the regen parameters are met, rpm, oil temp, fuel level etc.

 

Stop wasting your time with a generic code reader, get someone on here to do a VCDS scan or find a garage with a Snap On or similar multi-marque dealer level tester to find the code of what is actually going wrong.

5 hours ago, Monoboy said:

Yeah, I don't know. I ran it in third gear above 3000 for a few miles then took it for a 30-minute blast in the motorway.

 

The oil temperature was in the 90s.

 

That should trigger a regen, but I can't tell for sure.

If you knew about regens you would know that oil temperature goes above 100 degrees and the tickover goes from about 850 rpm to about 1000 rpm with a very gruff engine note.
How about saving yourself and everybody else time and doing as JR sugests
"""Stop wasting your time with a generic code reader, get someone on here to do a VCDS scan or find a garage with a Snap On or similar multi-marque dealer level tester to find the code of what is actually going wrong. """

My Greenline still runs rough during regen, however before the EGR delete it would trigger codes and limp mode even at 2k rpm.

 

If you can't afford VCDS then get Carista, together with VAGDPF you'll get a good idea of what's going on AND Carista can activate a regen on command. 

^  Even when using the 'free' app?  ie carista