37 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

 

Nope. that would be because they aren't connected to any central databuses (CAN), only to each other with 1-wire LIN bus. Invisible to diagnostics.

Ahh this leads me immediately back to them being locked out by the alarm then, as specified elsewhere!

 

I do agree, the key is the most likely cause for the issue here. 

 

To code a new immobiliser pin I will have to pay skoda for the skc won't I? Or pay them to code it for me which I really don't want to do either haha

The immobiliser chip is in the physical key end of the fob, not the RF electronics bit, swap in a new electronics bit, keeping the rest.

 

(From memory, of VW/Polo style fob, can't remember what Fabia one is like offhand)

Edited 7 July, 20223 yr by Breezy_Pete

Good point. Ill claim on my insurance at some point to get a second key 

 

19 hours ago, Xhuy10nx said:

To code a new immobiliser pin I will have to pay skoda for the skc won't I? Or pay them to code it for me which I really don't want to do either haha

 Skoda dealer for code, Skoda to supply/programme a key, local independent locksmith to supply/programme or buy something such as the following to retrieve the skc. I have used this tool on 3 different clusters in my Mk2 (original in car and 2 second hand units to fit in that car). Never done keys on a Mk.1 but believe the following applies, assuming the Immobiliser 3 applicable. You can buy keys cut to a photo, which I did when I had a Mk1 but this was never coded as I only intended to use as a get into car if remote locked in boot or similar. Worth then checking if you can buy a virgin RF chip and code it in.

Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: Immobilizer 3 Key Matching

 

For Vag Pin Code Reader Auto Key Programmer Obd2 For Key Login Car Diagnostic Tools Code Reader Program Remote And Transponders - Diagnostic Tools - AliExpress   Feedback from a buyer - "A little bit expensive just for showing something essy to find. On the VAG autos this code can be finded is on the back on the cluster case (tacho). It worth's if you don't want to dismantel the place where is the tacho/cluster gauge." - do not believe that is correct, anyone know if correct.

Edited 8 July, 20223 yr by KeithCheetham
New RF chip suggestion

Funnily enough @Breezy_PeteI checked the wiring again quickly on Tuesday before I left to work in Hereford for the week and haven't found anything... BUT i think you might well be correct. 

 

i noticed on momday night my electric mirrors dont work on the switch anymore so strongly suspect there's a broken cable somewhere. After reading some other posts on here it would look to be a blue-black cable which would stand more suspect than the others, although it's hard to tell right here.

 

I've got a brand new bottom half of key delivered yesterday, when I get home tomorrow night I'll have a go at programming it again via VCDS, which might tell me something about that fault. Perhaps these two issues aren't related afterall, as was initially suggested by myself and some others online.

 

I'll report back with my findings, sure wish I had a bloody wiring diagram about now to assist in fault finding 🤣

Check cabin fuse 11, it may well be blown.

1 hour ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Check cabin fuse 11, it may well be blown.

Had checked that a few times but I'll stick a replacement in to be certain 👍

Check for 12V at the black/blue wire going into the 6-way connector at the window motor when ignition is on. 

If present, that confirms fuse and wire.

Mirror switch shares same feed from fuse.

Well the new key womt program either so I suspect it is a fault in the car somewhere... I'm now going to be looking into the reciever unit

Does the programming you've been trying involve turning a key in the door lock?

Edited 15 July, 20223 yr by Breezy_Pete
Sp

1 minute ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Does the programming you've been trying involve turning a key in the door lock?

No. Using adaptation on VCDS

I thought there was a step where you did have to do that but it's all hazy memories from when I did the OEM radio remote upgrade on my spare Polo.

 

 

That's the other method but I don't have a second key blade, only remote

Screwdriver like you did upthread?

On 15/07/2022 at 18:20, Breezy_Pete said:

Screwdriver like you did upthread?

Yeah I tried that also with no luck. It's like the car cannot see any keys at this point...

 

I'm at a loose end now... 

@Breezy_Pete do you have any info on the door wires?

 

I have checked a third time and none of the cables are externally damaged (although they could be internally I guess)

 

But when the brown plug isn't connected I can use the drivers window (only) it drops automatically but then you have to inch it up.

 

The minute the brown cable is plugged in neither work...

 

Is that helpful in any way?

Out and about til later, will see what I can dig out when I get home and have eaten. 9'ish.

No rush, thank you! 

Tomorrow morning then, footie is getting all my attention just now!

16 hours ago, Xhuy10nx said:

@Breezy_Pete do you have any info on the door wires?

 

I have checked a third time and none of the cables are externally damaged (although they could be internally I guess)

 

But when the brown plug isn't connected I can use the drivers window (only) it drops automatically but then you have to inch it up.

 

The minute the brown cable is plugged in neither work...

 

Is that helpful in any way?

 

One connection that this brown plug carries is the LIN data bus between driver's and passenger side window motor modules, it's the grey/white wire on pin 6.

It also carries the door open signal on the brown/yellow wire at pin 2, and one of the earth connections (brown) on pin 5.

Grey blue wire on pin 1 is the switch illumination supply.

 

Not really sure what to make of it, but suggest you find a bit of time (Saturday?) to pop over my way, ideally with door card removed in advance and we could test what happens with a known good window motor module. PM me if you like.

 

On 21/07/2022 at 09:31, Breezy_Pete said:

 

One connection that this brown plug carries is the LIN data bus between driver's and passenger side window motor modules, it's the grey/white wire on pin 6.

It also carries the door open signal on the brown/yellow wire at pin 2, and one of the earth connections (brown) on pin 5.

Grey blue wire on pin 1 is the switch illumination supply.

 

Yeah so I've checked for the 15th time today and found a broken black/yellow cable

 

Any ideas the function of this?

Scrap that, I re-soldered it together, heat shrunk around it, switched ignition on and boom, full use of windows and mirrors again. Just got to work out the remote locking fault now and then on to fitting a pas pump I "acquired" 

1 hour ago, Xhuy10nx said:

 

 

Any ideas the function of this?

 

Which of the connectors at the a-pillar and what pin number? Photo?

Sounds like good progress though, well done.

 

It was the blue connector Black/Yellow

27 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

 

Which of the connectors at the a-pillar and what pin number? Photo?

Sounds like good progress though, well done.

 

 

Black/Yellow is normally an ignition switched 12v