Could you tell me please, what happened here?

 

- Rear right wheel is bouncing on bumps like a basketball, accompanied with a rattling noise.

- When I press down the back of the car, the shock shaft pictured above is moving up and down freely.

- I can easily rotate the shock shaft. The shock shaft seems to be completely displaced.

44 minutes ago, R_Blue said:

Could you tell me please, what happened here?

Not certain, but it looks like the top mount rubber has split. You need new rear dampers.

Thanks for the quick reply. That means, I'll also need a spring compressor tool. Right?

Only if the springs are coaxial; with separate acting lines I've changed both springs and dampers without the use of spring compressors (on an Opel Ascona RWD).

6 hours ago, R_Blue said:

 I'll also need a spring compressor tool. Right?

 

https://www.drive2.ru/l/465522504035730405/

 

(has photos step by step) and here is the video:

 

On 18/08/2022 at 18:33, D.FYLAKTOS said:

(has photos step by step) and here is the video:

Thanks! Good find. That really saved the day.

I decided to buy a spring compressor tool after seeing your post.

 

Later, I've found out that, a spring compressor might not be needed BUT not everything goes smooth when working with old cars. Right?

 

 

I removed both suspension assembly. On the other side they put washers here. They corroded so badly, I couldn't make them released. They were literally welded here with rust.

I had to cut the damper's shaft to be able release the spring. If I hadn't bought it, the work would be interrupted at this point.

 

 

Some of the parts after disassembly.

 

Condition of the springs.

 

Re-assembled.

 

7 hours ago, R_Blue said:

I decided to buy a spring compressor tool after seeing your post

After seeing your photos yes you needed spring compressors. That said, this only applies when working with co-axial springs and dampers.

1 hour ago, KenONeill said:

After seeing your photos yes you needed spring compressors. That said, this only applies when working with co-axial springs and dampers.

To clarify for future readers, you don't need a spring compressor tool for this job under normal circumstances. When installing new dampers, I didn't need compressors. Threaded end of the shaft is long enough to use its own nut to compress the spring.

 

Here are some more explicit pictures to expose the nature of the concluded work.

Just after pulling it out.

 

I couldn't cut this without a spring compressor.

 

Also,

 

Bottom mounting nut (no:20) on one side has stripped. It also took the socket of the wrench along with it. I had to cut it too.

No:11 was missing one one side.

No:4 was missing on both sides. This is a tube shaped spacer to fit inside the rubber bushing. I had to find a metal pipe to cut pieces like that.

 

Just a reminder for future readers; spring compressors are dangerous. There are horror stories everywhere on the net. Beware.

46 minutes ago, R_Blue said:

spring compressors are dangerous.

Those ones you've got are proper double hooked ones though; aren't they? Keep the pressure on each side fairly even and you're sound (do up one side by a turn, then do the other side the same, and only do them enough to release pressure on the 2 spring perches)

On 20/08/2022 at 12:27, KenONeill said:

Those ones you've got are proper double hooked ones though; aren't they? Keep the pressure on each side fairly even and you're sound (do up one side by a turn, then do the other side the same, and only do them enough to release pressure on the 2 spring perches)

Yes. They are double hooked. I did just like your description. Equal pressure. Turn each bolt one by one.

 

On 20/08/2022 at 12:27, KenONeill said:

and only do them enough to release pressure on the 2 spring perches

Do you mean just enough to have no pressure on the spring plates at both ends?

 

I also explored DIY route and made calculations on required materials. Conclusion is; if you don't have thick and long bolts (something like M16x250-300mm) scavenged from somewhere, laying around etc. DIY is not logical way. Not big gains compared to a ready to use set. Also, fabricating the hooks require careful workmanship. Your life depends on it.

35 minutes ago, R_Blue said:

Do you mean just enough to have no pressure on the spring plates at both ends?

Yes; spring perch and spring plate are synonymous terms in this context. Also, use the compressors over as many turns of the spring as possible. From your photo upthread, that looks to be about 9 turns of this particular spring.

@KenONeill

 

Thanks for your time and valuable input.

 

 

Also, for the record.

I used a set of  (2x) new

No: 2, 4 (fabricated), 5, 7, 8, 10, 11 (fashioned from standard washers), 13, 14, 18, 20, 21

 

No:15 is missing. It's near impossible to find. I even searched VW shops for Golf2 substitutes and had no chance.

No:12 on both sides were in an unbelievably good shape after 30yrs. of use. Seems available on the market but not common. I used old ones.

 

Also a good seller recommended to use old and original springs unless there is an utmost need. He told me that, aftermarket copies had a tendency to lose their stiffness and form in a short time.

On 18/08/2022 at 10:54, R_Blue said:

ould you tell me please, what happened here?

Top rubber mounting has deteriorated to the point of not being existant hahaha

you need 2 of these sets

https://www.autodoc.gr/optimal/7575428

2 hours ago, Thefeliciahacker said:

Top rubber mounting has deteriorated to the point of not being existant hahaha

Your reasoning is well. 

I also think that was the cause. There were more parts that have been needed to be changed, like dampers. I added a list on my previous post.