In the last couple of weeks before I get in my car or wen i get out I have noticed that one of the exhaust valves is making a buzzing sound. It repeats this every 2-3 mins. Due to weather I haven't spent anytime on the ground watching the position of the valve. Has anyone experienced similar issues , what should I look out for? Should the valve be open or closed on cold start up and does its position change in sport mode when warm. 

I had the same problem. The spring inside the valve box had snapped. The buzz comes from the motor trying to spin the spring, which in turn shuts/opens the flap.

In my case, the motor timed out after 4 minutes of unsuccessful operation. I couldn't find anywhere selling the springs on their own. Make sure you're sat down when looking at the price of a replacement unit.

“Waits with baited breath….” 😖 C’mon, let’s be having it Bigeater! 

11 hours ago, numskull said:

“Waits with baited breath….” 😖 C’mon, let’s be having it Bigeater! 

4H0133246J is the part, but i couldn't find the part number for the spring most annoyingly.

Oh, and the backbox has to be dropped to get at the bolts to undo the the part.

It's a right faff. In the end I changed backboxes altogether and did away with valves as they're pointless imo.

Edited 21 December, 20223 yr by Bigeater

This post has a source for replacement exhaust valve actuator springs:

 

23 minutes ago, D402 said:

This post has a source for replacement exhaust valve actuator springs:

 

Nice, will take a look. Thanks. 

 

2 hours ago, Bigeater said:

In the end I changed backboxes altogether and did away with valves as they're pointless imo.

 

How dare you! 🤨

 

😆

5 hours ago, Bigeater said:

4H0133246J is the part, but i couldn't find the part number for the spring most annoyingly.

Oh, and the backbox has to be dropped to get at the bolts to undo the the part.

It's a right faff. In the end I changed backboxes altogether and did away with valves as they're pointless imo.

😮Ruined my Christmas ..

Edited 21 December, 20223 yr by Nick_H

So it's been a while. I managed to get a spring from the US, in that time the other side started making the same buzzing sound. Tonight I decided to take one off and have a look. I had to drop the rear exhaust off the hangers. The actuator is held on with 3 nylok nuts on welded studs that are part of the back box. All but one were badly corroded. 8mm socket got one off. Vice grips gots a another had to dremel the last one. Unplugged and took off. Sure enough spring is snapped inside. Checked the other side and one of the studs snapped. Had to drill it out. Same again, snapped. I'm in touch with someone who might be able to supply the spring so haven't fitted the  new one yet. At least I know it definetly is the issue and how to do it. Problem I have now is trying to get the exhaust back on the rubber mounts. Any tips???????? , maybe a little tired now but cant get the bloody things in. 

I’d imagine without it being on a lift, it’d be almost impossible to get enough heft to get it back on the hanger. It maybe possible if you get it on a set of wheel ramps?  I wonder if penetrating oil put on overnight might’ve helped in the removal of the Nylok nuts? Its so typical of manufacturers not to protect components like these which are subjected to constant poor weather conditions and extremes of heat; 6 rubber caps would’ve stopped them corroding. Ahhh well. 

Just for ease of members, would it be possible for you post the details of the company which supplied the spring in the US? Also the springs they advertise seem to be a different shape to those on the 280, so is there any specific info one needs to provide to them so they supply the correct ones and finally, an approximate cost? 

1 hour ago, numskull said:

I’d imagine without it being on a lift, it’d be almost impossible to get enough heft to get it back on the hanger. It maybe possible if you get it on a set of wheel ramps?  I wonder if penetrating oil put on overnight might’ve helped in the removal of the Nylok nuts? Its so typical of manufacturers not to protect components like these which are subjected to constant poor weather conditions and extremes of heat; 6 rubber caps would’ve stopped them corroding. Ahhh well. 

Just for ease of members, would it be possible for you post the details of the company which supplied the spring in the US? Also the springs they advertise seem to be a different shape to those on the 280, so is there any specific info one needs to provide to them so they supply the correct ones and finally, an approximate cost? 

I used some pengaurd on them before dinner but think they were past that point. I'm going to need to find a way today or my car is off the road lol. I have one side up on a ramp of sorts 

The link for the springs is in this thread, posted by another user. Cost me approx £45 which is a fraction compared to a new unit or exhaust. For sure it's a job you want to tackle yourself or your local garage. Labour cost would be high or they would just tell you it's damaged and needs a whole new rear silencer. Will hopefully have some other options for the spring which I will post up when I get them. 

1 hour ago, Macsamillion said:

Cost me approx £45

Thanks @Macsamillion. £45 is excellent. Did that include duty and tax? Either way I’ll be getting a set given the failure rate.
Weird that the Dodge Hellcat uses an identical system, given Dodge is a brand owned by a major competitor, Stellantis. 

54 minutes ago, numskull said:

Thanks @Macsamillion. £45 is excellent. Did that include duty and tax? Either way I’ll be getting a set given the failure rate.
Weird that the Dodge Hellcat uses an identical system, given Dodge is a brand owned by a major competitor, Stellantis. 

Actually all in with tax and international delivery it was £69. That is one for only! Come with 3 new nylok nuts. 

18 minutes ago, Macsamillion said:

Actually all in with tax and international delivery it was £69. That is one for only! Come with 3 new nylok nuts. 

For ONE?! Bloody heck! 

I know I was shocked when it arrived, then I checked ad and it was for one. Should get them cheaper next time though if this supplier can help. 

 

Good news is the exhaust is back on, went on no problem today after emery cloth the hanger and then fairy liquid on the both them and rubbers. Fresh muscle this morning. 

2 hours ago, Macsamillion said:

Good news is the exhaust is back on…

Goodho. How did you sort the broken stud for the actuator?

50 minutes ago, numskull said:

Goodho. How did you sort the broken stud for the actuator?

Used a Centre punch, drilled it out. Will replace with M4 or M5 bolt. Going to get some of those plastic dome covers. 

So I have been exploring the options of getting the replacements springs thinking that the source in US is quite expensive. Had a couple of quotes and the reality is that to get them made, even in reasonable numbers its just about as cheap to buy them. I`m not sure how much interest there would be or demand for that matter if I was to stump up for the fabrication of a batch.  Its not clear exactly which other cars use the same one and if they could be sold on to cover costs. 

 

 

Great info here.  Thanks to all that have paved the way and mad my job easier to work out what the issue is.

 

Have found the springs, actually, someone did on one of the Superb FB groups and shared it with me.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005006813654325.html 
Hope this helps.

Just reading this back - this is interesting. My exhaust is...slightly boomier...for the first couple of minutes of driving. I actually really like it and wondered if that was a symptom of something to do with the flaps. Maybe not. On my old E36 328i it was done by a vacuum pipe running the length of the car - you took it off the inlet manifold and plugged it (I used a golf tee which was actually the perfect bodge!) and got a tiny bit more volume. Until the Supersprint went on anyway

4 hours ago, travs said:

Just reading this back - this is interesting. My exhaust is...slightly boomier...for the first couple of minutes of driving. I actually really like it and wondered if that was a symptom of something to do with the flaps. Maybe not. On my old E36 328i it was done by a vacuum pipe running the length of the car - you took it off the inlet manifold and plugged it (I used a golf tee which was actually the perfect bodge!) and got a tiny bit more volume. Until the Supersprint went on anyway

I dont have valves on my remus boxes, and like you, it goes quieter after a minute of warming up. So no, it's not valve related.

Supersprint eh. So your the one keeping them in business  

5 hours ago, Bigeater said:

I dont have valves on my remus boxes, and like you, it goes quieter after a minute of warming up. So no, it's not valve related.

Supersprint eh. So your the one keeping them in business  

It was the one to have in the E36 world - I hasten to add this was in 2005 before Milltek came along and decided to add a nought onto every price...Scorpion if you wanted everyone in the postcode to know you'd just started the car, Supersprint if you wanted subtle.

 

I had a Magnex backbox on my Saxo VTR (I know - all the stereotypes) and that was great; no sound difference when cold, sounded a little deeper when warmed through. Would happily have that on the Superb.

 

Back on topic - ok good to know its consistent and normal then at least!

It can be long coded to stay open, I assume the system stays open, not closed if broken?

On 02/12/2024 at 21:08, travs said:

I had a Magnex backbox on my Saxo VTR

Now THAT would be worth something today, Lee! 

OK, so stuff the £69 for the single US one, I just ordered 8 of the springs from Ali. Of course they maybe crap but it’s worth a punt. I don’t have the issue at present, but seems it’s likely one will break.