The Skoda Octavia mk2 Vrs tdi pd 170 these engines reliable, easy to fix and service?

 

What sort of mpg people getting with there cars?

 

What things do you need to look out for on these cars problems wise?

 

I still have my skoda fabia 1.4 tdi and peugeot 306 hdi. I'm looking for anther 3rd car something to maybe join these more refined sports upgrade diesel.

 

Thanks

Edited 1 January, 20233 yr by Kelly_Heroes

Depending on its age I assume it will have a DPF so I would stay away from the PD engines as they are not designed to work well with a DPF, spend a bit more and get a CR.

48 minutes ago, SuperbTWM said:

Depending on its age I assume it will have a DPF so I would stay away from the PD engines as they are not designed to work well with a DPF, spend a bit more and get a CR.

 

The CR that engine a common rail diesel engine?

 

Do the CR engines have dpf or add blue?

 

I didn't know there was a CR common rail diesel rail version that's a big bonus to know that for sure.

 

Thanks

Edited 1 January, 20233 yr by Kelly_Heroes

14 minutes ago, Kelly_Heroes said:

 

I didn't know there was a CR common rail diesel rail version that's a big bonus to know that for sure.

 

 

I'm not 100% sure there is, from doing a quick search I think the facelift VRS models were CR so that would be a much better buy.

 

All the CR engines have a DPF but they work well and rarely give any issues. Usually the bigger cars that couldn't get under the nox limit with just the EGR also have adblue but usually on cars 2015+ that are 2.0 +

Edited 1 January, 20233 yr by SuperbTWM

The octavia vrs cr do they all have the dsg gear boxes or some without?

 

The dsg gearboxes are these better then the standard gearboxes and is there much difference?

 

Thanks

I currently own a ppd170 in a 2007 vrs fully standard with dpf and egr, it's done 158000 and still going with no real issues.  I changed duel mass and clutch recently but that's just normal wear and tear. Engine still pulls well, will return 50 to 55 mpg on long hawl, 45 mpg on 30 min drive if you are conservative, 35 mpg if you aren't. I've had no issues with my dpf in since I've owned it for 3 years but it gets driven 60 miles for work.  It doesn't sound as refined as a CR but what 4 pot diesel sounds amazing?  If you get one for a good price in good nick it should last, but they are more complicated than a CR and more costly if they go wrong. If I had a choice I would choose a CR, but I'm not selling my PPD yet, the thing just keeps on going! 

Having owned a PPD170 for years I can say it’s been mighty. Every car has its issues. If you get a PPD170 made in very late 2007/2008 should not have any issues. I have the 2008 model.

 

What to look for:

- Revised C coded cylinder head. No problems pourous heads so make sure it’s got a C at the end of the head code. A and B heads were used in 2006/07 PD140s and PD170s and were known for going bad requiring head jobs.

 

- DPF/EGR To be honest I’d say there’s more PD engined cars without these devices still in place than there is with them. Every car has issues with these including the CR it down to how it’s driven and servicing. The PDs can be a bit more temperamental than most as they were not designed for DPFs. There is a handy fix tho🫣😏

 

- Intake Manifolds are made from crappy plastic which can crack with swirl flaps and need to be removed immediately as they’ll go into the engine. It’s a cheap fix. Get an aluminium one from a BKD PD140 in a scrapyard or buy a refurbished one from DarkSide for 120. No mapping required.

 

- Injector issues was another thing that plagued 170s. They used Siemens systems that tended to fail. A good few were recalled for it and had them replaced as they very expensive to replace. I have a May 2008 model with 180k miles which never had any injector issues and I know plenty with the late 07/08 models that also had no issues which would lead you to believe these models were fitted with the newer revision Siemens units. If they did fail there is a cheap fix also for this by fitting a BKD PD140 fuel system, including the Bosch ECU, Injector loom, and injectors.

 

Other than these bits which if I’m honest can all be sorted cheaply enough there’s not much else to go wrong. Just normal wear and tare. The CR170 has been known to suffer similar issues as those mentioned with exemption of the cylinder head issue. I’ve seen many CR170s suffer injector failure and there is no cheap fix for them as well as turbo failures. The PD170 is more raw than the CR170 where the CR170 is more refined. PD170s also have better tuning potential if ya wanted more than a Stage 1 later down the line. Things get expensive after Stage 1 on a CR170.

 

Finally, I know this will offend some CR170 owners but the Prefacelift (PPD170) is a much better built car than the CR170 (Facelift). Having worked and detailed with both the CR170 and owning the PPD170 this is my experience in them. The metals on the facelift CR170 rust quicker around the sills and wings. The interior plastics on the CR170 are a much cheaper quality and this can be seen noticeably in the rear door cards even the two tone seats feel of a cheaper quality on the facelift. Generally I got into a few CR170s with an open mind but the quality just felt a notch below the PD170. Also in relation to metals, I’ve seen a 2010 and 2013 CR170 where the sills were almost rusted through with half the miles of mine ! (We lived in the same area). The parts can be got cheaper for PD170s than the CR170s also. Fixing wise both are pretty much not too bad.
 

That’s just my experience with them. Fuel economy will be roughly the same if I’m honest probably slightly better on the CR model. For a verdict, if you’re not into cars but want something refined and smooth, get the CR170 but in Blackline Trim with full leather as these are nicest ones. If your like me and into details, tuning, and like PDs but also like a more raw driving experience, then a PD170 is the way to go. If it was a CR170 vs CR184, then definitely CR170 as the CR184s are worse than the CR170s.

 

Hope this helps you man. I’m a bit of a PD enthusiast.
Jack

 

Edit: Just noticed you mentioned gearboxes. Would advise to stay away from Automatics as it’s more than likely they won’t have been serviced every 35,000 miles and DSG boxes don’t take kindly to poor servicing. Could end up costing a full gearbox rebuild or gearbox. Manual is the only way anyways ! 😁

Edited 7 January, 20233 yr by JacksVRS