7 hours ago, nta16 said:

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

ETA: This was all one-finger typed before varooom posted.

 

As you've found as with other models the Owner's Manual hasn't been clear about the fuse locations and with the possibility of more than one fuse and/or location for the particular system but don't think, but don't know, that there's more than one fuse for the alarm (horn).  ETA: This was one-finger typed before varooom posted.

 

Below is when a local site member helped me by 'coding' the battery on my wife's car with OBDEleven, the start of my fuller understanding of the 'joys' of VW's computer programing.  So far there doesn't seem to be any effects of the word 'BOSCH' instead of the VW three letter code for the battery manufacturer but who knows if it's VW programing requirements or VW statistics requirement.

 

/cdn-cgi/mirage/a4ad7f9b66fde456af67b4fe327136f8129fc70e80cebb5d62cc6bd5919137ef/1280/https://www.briskoda.net/forums/uploads/monthly_2023_01/batterycoding.jpg.dff300def59b702253c70cb7439f6220.jpg

 

Changed the serial... I don't remember doing that. Hmm. It was before dinner time yesterday, so my memory of it is fuzzy at best, but I don't remember changing a serial number.

Edited 29 January, 20233 yr by Tambohamilton

Checked fault codes again today, and the aerial short circuit cleared and didn't return (yet). In fact now that all the door errors have gone away, it's looking decently tidy in there!

7 hours ago, Tambohamilton said:

I think a couple of other fuses might be missing - one for the power socket in the boot, for example. Will have a closer look and think about that when I've got some spare fuses in my hand.

Figured that one out - no power socket in the boot! Hahaha

1 hour ago, Tambohamilton said:

Seems so crazy for me that the manual supplied doesn't match the car, never mind having only the information pertaining to that model (all the duplicate/diesel/auto info which is irrelevant). Thanks for the printout

Well check the above list and see if it matches, I guess the book could be wrong.

1 hour ago, varooom said:

Well check the above list and see if it matches, I guess the book could be wrong.

Like you say, fuse 39 and 35 are a match for the car. I'll need to look at all 3 sometime though. Do you have a list for the panel under the bonnet too, please?

20 minutes ago, Tambohamilton said:

Do you have a list for the panel under the bonnet too, please?

Here these hopefully match...

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

On 27/01/2023 at 13:13, varooom said:

A low battery can cause no end of fault codes that then disappear when the Voltage is healthy again.

This concept can be very hard for some to accept.  Do yourself a favour, just in case, charge the battery FULLY with an appropriate battery charger and maintainer, often just just driving the car to charge it is nowhere near enough.  A battery in a good state of charge will help with diagnosis whereas a battery in low state of charge can hinder and even prevent diagnosis. 

 

 

2 hours ago, Tambohamilton said:

and the aerial short circuit cleared and didn't return (yet). In fact now that all the door errors have gone away,

As the battery gets less demand on it and picks up a little some things caused by the previously too low state of charge can go away, they can return when the battery gets too low for them again.

 

If the battery is too low in state of charge, even if the car starts and the lights seem bright enough, then the computer programs can throw up all sorts of unexpected issues and getting the battery back to a better state of charge will take those issues away.  Obviously if there is any sort of problem with the car or use of the car then the same issues, and perhaps more,  will return when the battery's state of charge gets too low again.

 

For the battery drain, I often think of the users (people) before the consumers (electric items on the car), cos I'm old and know how wasteful some are with electric, even on a car, with "well that doesn't use a lot does it", put a coin slot meter on and they'd often soon find out. :grumpyoldgit:

 

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

If you post up your version of below we can see if there's anything obvious to the naked eye. 

 

10 hours ago, nta16 said:

 

 

Same battery drain with the alarm fuse removed, sadly. Was worth a try!

 

Will check fuses and battery coding later, or tomorrow...

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Meant to ask before, anything plugged into a 12v socket that perhaps turns itself on and off?

 

Nothing left plugged in ever, that I'm aware of.

 

Another thing I meant to ask about; when I switch off the ignition, the wipers twitch. Every time. Is that normal, or something odd going on? May be completely unrelated...

Just now, Tambohamilton said:

Another thing I meant to ask about; when I switch off the ignition, the wipers twitch. Every time. Is that normal, or something odd going on?

 It is normal and is explained in some handbooks. To avoid wear on the wiper blades, it will choose one of three possible park positions. Hence the twitch as it may move the blade to a higher or lower park position.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

31 minutes ago, pikpilot said:

It is normal and is explained in some handbooks.

Do you know if it's in the Owner's Manual for this model?

 

I try to get owners reading the Owner's Manuals but the ones I've seen for the VWSkodas do seem to have a good few flaws, including the one for my wife's car, and the fuse locations as previously mentioned.

 

You can download a pdf of your owners handbook using the link in the first topic of the "sticky" section, above the live posts.

@nta16

Consider losing all the extra waffle and graphics in your posts, it's distracting, repetitive and time consuming.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

@MicMac sorry but it's not the way I am.  If you don't like it don't be distracted by it scroll on by or put me on your 'Ignore list' which I think means you then don't see my posts or you could 'Report' me or my posts or get together with others and get me booted off the site.  I hope this post was succinct enough for you.

Edited 31 January, 20233 yr by nta16
spelling

6 hours ago, MicMac said:

@nta16

Consider losing all the extra waffle and graphics in your posts, it's distracting, repetitive and time consuming.

 

There would be nothing of value remaining.

Well, that went off topic suddenly. What's the point in that? If you don't like someone's posts, add them to your ignore list - problem solved. No need to derail the thread to have a dig at someone.

Had a look at the battery coding this eve. Using obdeleven, I only seem to have the option of putting in a code like "060 vao 1111111111". When I got there it said "060 vao 0000000000". I changed it to "060 vao 1111111112", since that seems to be right for my battery (60Ah Varta, and I believe the 2nd battery to be fitted to the car).

 

However it also said "AGM" on screen. I couldn't find any way to edit that. Am I missing something? The installed battery is EFB.

 

The car doesn't appear to have the battery monitor (name? On BMWs it's "IBS") on the battery terminal. So I'm assuming that the coding doesn't really make a single bit of difference. Is that correct? Voltage when running hovers around 14.3-14.6v, which I think is acceptable for EFB, and AGM would be more like 14.6-15.0?

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

060 vao 1111111112 sounds OK.

 

AGM not so fine as IIRC AGM is AGM Binary(?) for VW who refer to AGM in the 'coding' as "Fleece".  The VW car's computer programs for charging and maintenance I guess would be different so you want EFB.  EFB is nearer to a standard battery than an AGM is.

 

At the risk of waffling, repeating and taking space with graphics, you'd go through the gate at number 19, as in. -

 

varooom and others could tell you routes and names but the battery monitor is there and it does do stuff for the start/stop, to me there seems to be debate and uncertainty about exactly how much it does.  Some disconnect the start/stop at the battery negative connector - yours is still connected? -

 

 

As for alternator voltage that can depend on a number of things and how it might relating to any 'coding' perhaps but also the car running and battery state and electric consumption, temperatures, etc., the various figures would have my head spinning.

 

Literally waiting on my neighbour's BMW to be collected to get my "smart" Ring charger & maintainer back, the battery originally showed 3.4v on my optimistic multimeter, the "smart" Ring wouldn't start the charging so I had to put my 30+ year old standard charger on to get to an indicated 10.6v on the "smart" Ring charger for it to take over.   All is out in the open with bonnet up, easy to the replace the new Ring than the very old standard charger with a very useful needle gauge.

 

At the same time in the shed another neighbour's battery off his "classic" car that he forgot to disconnect, 2.7v originally on the optimistic multimeter, that battery's stewing on my 20+ year old 4-stage 1.8(?) amp charger, that'll take at least 2 days to get the green light.

 

2009 XJ Jag the other week showed 0.45v (?!), I had to test a new 3v button battery I'd just bought to make sure my optimistic multimeter wasn't effected by the cold or was playing up.

 

Edited 1 February, 20233 yr by nta16

You deal with a lot of dead batteries!

 

The car doesn't have a battery monitor, I'm 99% sure. I'll check properly next time the bonnet is open. It certainly doesn't have start/stop. I'm guessing that's why my coding options for the battery are so limited; it literally doesn't need to know what the chemistry of the battery is, because it won't do anything differently.

If you don't have the monitor, you won't need to worry about adapting anything.  You can change serial numbers forever and it won't affect charging.

 

You mentioned 18hrs back it didn't have stop/start, I think @nta16 missed that.  You will easily tell by looking at negative terminal, and you would also have a start/stop disable button next to gearstick.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

1 hour ago, varooom said:

I think @nta16 missed that.

I did, I totally misunderstood  I thought it appeared to be missing on the scan tool read out rather than missing totally from the car.  😄  I almost suggested a photo of the battery.

 

Apologies @Tambohamilton.

 

This what happens when an assumption (EFB - start/stop) is make and not checked - made an ass out myself, again. 🙃

 

Back to what or who stealing the electric then.

 

1 hour ago, Tambohamilton said:

You deal with a lot of dead batteries!

They're not dead (well the Jag one would be I guess, I was literally walking passed and had the multimeter with me but that's another ballsache VW story best left) other two batteries were just coincidence.  One in sick bay now will recover to serve again, if wounded and weakened.  The BMW never got near to fully charged but my neighbour was packing everything away, engine running, auto-headlights on and the stereo ready to drive into rush hour traffic.  I told him the charge wasn't even equivalent to a Chinese meal and the car would soon want more.

 

Edited 1 February, 20233 yr by nta16
spelling

24 minutes ago, varooom said:

If you don't have the monitor, you won't need to worry about adapting anything.  You can change serial numbers forever and it won't affect charging.

 

You mentioned 18hrs back it didn't have stop/start, I think @nta16 missed that.  You will easily tell by looking at negative terminal, and you would also have a start/stop disable button next to gearstick.

Thanks. 100% certain there's no button, and 99% certain there's nothing extra on the neg terminal.

 

So I'm pretty content that I haven't nuked the battery by charging it inappropriately or something like that.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything.

 

Perhaps back on track, have any previous owners taken the car away from how it left the factory, changed or added items.

 

If you're short on time perhaps a battery monitor of another sort might help, something that's reports on the battery consumption when no one is around (like those BM2) in case the drain(s) is something that wakes up when you're not around.

 

Image from John H.