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6 speed DSG Clutch Jumpy


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Years since I have been here. Appreciate some help if possible. About 2 years ago my 14 plate VRS petrol started to develop a shunt or a delay on engaging first or reverse from start. This is only occasional and seems worse in reverse, particularly when reversing from a standstill, up hill or over a slight bump. Just after lockdown I took it to Huddersfield Transmissions, DSG Specialist. I was expecting the worst outcome, but the guy there told me it was fine, and they tend to behave like this after the miles roll by. The clutches were all OK and I think he might have re set it. My local garage also said they pretty much behave in this way, the older they get.

 

I am 10K further down the line at 60K, the problem seems to be maybe only very slightly worse, maybe not at all, in gear shifts are as smooth as ever. I kind of thought I would ignore it and buy a new one in time. No chance now, I just don't have the money. I still live in fear of a stupid bill for a new Mechatronic unit looming or worse clutch pack as well! I want to keep the car and run it til 100k if possible, it is in fantastic condition apart from knackered leaky alloys

 

I wondered if anyone else has had similar problems? Would a gearbox re map fix this ?? Feedback welcomed.

 

Edited by harrysprout
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  • harrysprout changed the title to 6 speed DSG Clutch Jumpy

?

Petrol or Diesel?

 

No matter really it should not behave like that.   The miles have not rolled on. 60,000 miles is nothing.

Was the last DSG Service @ 40,000 miles.   Was that done at a Main Dealership?

 

Try another Automatic Specialist, or maybe someone with a car like yours can try yours ot you theirs.

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59 minutes ago, toot said:

?

Petrol or Diesel?

 

No matter really it should not behave like that.   The miles have not rolled on. 60,000 miles is nothing.

Was the last DSG Service @ 40,000 miles.   Was that done at a Main Dealership?

 

Try another Automatic Specialist, or maybe someone with a car like yours can try yours ot you theirs.

 As posted Petrol. Box serviced at 40k. Not a main dealer. The miles have rolled on from 50 to 60. I know it's nothing. I rang another specialist and they say they are problematic. In fact on researching, they seem to be a bit of a nightmare.

I re set it though and seems to have resolved it. But that was only after a short drive, so the gremlins might return

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@harrysprout 

 

Seems normal to me , my 2016 2.0tdi is on 88k miles, sometimes it will give a little shunt / jerk to start in forward or reverse when moving off from standstill, up or down a slight incline. its had two oil changes in those miles at 40k as per the requirements of the DQ250. 

 

 

Edited by paulski
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I've had 3 x dq250s. 2 I have had until 70k. The third I still have and is 72k rising. 

 

I don't think problems are the norm with this box. They're very proven in a lot of vehicles and can do a lot more than 60k. They've been around for what 18 years and with only software changes really being upgraded along the way.  

 

Yes, they are complicated in terms of the mechatronic set up.  Yes, mechatronics can fail. But for the numbers out there it doesn't seem a huge vulnerability.

 

Clutch packs should do double 80k miles - if not abused. 

 

Back to your fault, the shunt. A slight delay taking up drive in 1st or R. I'd say - do a gearbox clutch adaption.  Is that what you mean by reset? 

 

On top of that, it took me until the 2nd dsg to get my driving style right starting on inclines. What works better is say hand brake applied when car parked up, foot off brake, allow a second or so for the clutches to take up drive, release hand brake, accelerate. If you go straight from foot on brake the clutches are disengaged and applying power before they are engaged could be slip or free spin before they clamp. Give it a try. 

 

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3 hours ago, TheClient said:

I've had 3 x dq250s. 2 I have had until 70k. The third I still have and is 72k rising. 

 

I don't think problems are the norm with this box. They're very proven in a lot of vehicles and can do a lot more than 60k. They've been around for what 18 years and with only software changes really being upgraded along the way.  

 

Yes, they are complicated in terms of the mechatronic set up.  Yes, mechatronics can fail. But for the numbers out there it doesn't seem a huge vulnerability.

 

Clutch packs should do double 80k miles - if not abused. 

 

Back to your fault, the shunt. A slight delay taking up drive in 1st or R. I'd say - do a gearbox clutch adaption.  Is that what you mean by reset? 

 

On top of that, it took me until the 2nd dsg to get my driving style right starting on inclines. What works better is say hand brake applied when car parked up, foot off brake, allow a second or so for the clutches to take up drive, release hand brake, accelerate. If you go straight from foot on brake the clutches are disengaged and applying power before they are engaged could be slip or free spin before they clamp. Give it a try. 

 

Thanks👍l turned ignition on and depressed accelerator pedal for 20 seconds. What is gearbox clutch adaption?

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4 hours ago, TheClient said:

I've had 3 x dq250s. 2 I have had until 70k. The third I still have and is 72k rising. 

 

I don't think problems are the norm with this box. They're very proven in a lot of vehicles and can do a lot more than 60k. They've been around for what 18 years and with only software changes really being upgraded along the way.  

 

Yes, they are complicated in terms of the mechatronic set up.  Yes, mechatronics can fail. But for the numbers out there it doesn't seem a huge vulnerability.

 

Clutch packs should do double 80k miles - if not abused. 

 

Back to your fault, the shunt. A slight delay taking up drive in 1st or R. I'd say - do a gearbox clutch adaption.  Is that what you mean by reset? 

 

On top of that, it took me until the 2nd dsg to get my driving style right starting on inclines. What works better is say hand brake applied when car parked up, foot off brake, allow a second or so for the clutches to take up drive, release hand brake, accelerate. If you go straight from foot on brake the clutches are disengaged and applying power before they are engaged could be slip or free spin before they clamp. Give it a try. 

 

Just had a look regarding gearbox, clutch adaption. Garage job for me. I don't have the kit. Or find someone with VCDS?

 

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6 minutes ago, harrysprout said:

Just had a look regarding gearbox, clutch adaption. Garage job for me. I don't have the kit. Or find someone with VCDS?

There is a list of forum members with VCDS, I might be close to you and willing to try and assist.

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6 minutes ago, harrysprout said:

Thank you. I'm in Harrogate

There is a map you can view in the first line on this thread, and you can then PM people that might be local to you (most likely Leeds)

 

I will send you a PM, so you can decide.

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I've had my 2013 petrol vrs with the DQ250 for 8 years now, it's got 155k miles on it, and does occasionally do the little jump/shunt thing since I first got it. It only ever happens if I'm in a bit of a hurry, and don't let it get into gear properly first before setting off. 

It was serviced at around 40k, and at 90k, but haven't had chance to book it in again yet. 

Never had any issues with it, just treated it carefully, even with the engine stage 1 revo mapped at 85k.

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2 hours ago, jimbojames said:

 occasionally do the little jump/shunt thing since I first got it. It only ever happens if I'm in a bit of a hurry, and don't let it get into gear properly first before setting off. 

 

Yes, that more or less what I was saying if you go straight from foot on brake to pressing accelerator that will emphasise any delay in taking up drive by clutches. A pause, even half a second to a second BEFORE pressing accelerator helps prevent this. If you're on a hill and don't have hill hold. The handbrake being applied whilst you take foot off brake helps. 

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When you say a little shunt, do you mean a little jump like maybe its selected the wrong gear to pull away? Im anal and if Im going to be sat at the lights for more than a few seconds I will pop it into neutral. If I havent pulled up slowly and seen 1st engage on the dash and crawl up to the lights in 1st, itll jerk when it pulls away. I put this down to the box not being clever enough/not having enough time to engage 1st after being put into neutral. You'd think as a default it would automatically choose 1st after being in neutral but my box doesnt seem to do that.

 

Gear changes and reverse are smooth though.

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