paulski

very odd problem this, I have the Wingbar with two 591 bike racks, but I will add that I do find that the two bolts on the carrier won't clamp down fully, unless I find the sweet spot on the threads by winding them up or down which you have clearly tried already. I usually have to be up over them to clamp them down, they do take some force for sure. Its certainly worth measuring the distances between the bars on both sides to ensure they are parallel, I got well fussy with at tape measure then I put my bars on. @DJBlobbyJust to add without being too patronizing, you are trying to clamp them down without the rubber insert in the bar aren't you, as you need to cut the rubbers from around the clamping points, you can then slide some bits back in around them to prevent wind noise.

My Thule roof bar set comprises a 757 foot pack with a 969 Wing bar

In my experience the regens take care of themselves in normal driving conditions. I get one per tank of mixed driving every tank full since owning the car and having put 55k miles on it since purchase at 46k miles. Even if I interrupt a regen it still completes on the next journey fine. Your oil ash mass looks very similar to mine at around 60k miles as have logged it regularly. I own VCDS and I understand it's tempting to understand how to carry out functions with software to hand "if the need arises", but as long as you notice regens occuring, and don't interrupt too often, DPF should be good for a good while yet. Of course, checking values with diagnostics will give you peace of mind it's doing what's supposed to.

@Nexus21 First step, Run a full "auto scan" and save this. Go to applications Controller Maps. You have to do each one, one at a time. Can take a while for some, so ensure battery is in good state of charge. Now from your auto scan, it will list each module number e.g 01 is engine, 03 ABS etc In the controller map "address" input the module number you want 03 will be ABS and 5F should be infotainment) suggest you also do 09 (central electrics) and 19 (CAN Gateway). Makes sure Adaptations and CSV are "selected". Hit "Go" they are stored in VCDS "LOGS" logs folder on your computer. Assuming you have excel they can be opened in that as CSV.

@Nexus21 have you downloaded and backed up your Admaps (or controller maps) for your car using VCDS? these show all adaptions for each module and may shed some light on if the coding is right or wrong. If not let me know and I can guide on how to.

If sensor at the wheel faulted, VCDS would have error in ABS module as well. That's where I'd be looking next. But given your knowledge of VCDS, I expect the autoscan has already been checked. Hope you find the culprit soon, sorry not to be able to offer any more clues.

@Nexus21 Can you access via the infotainment: "Menu" "Settings" "tyres" ? IMO, such a setting in the infotainment system, would be unusual to "disappear" unless coding has been messed with. Sorry missed you'd tried tyres menu option.

As mentioned greasing/lubricating these sorts of points on your car would prevent a repeat expense. White lithium grease is recommended as it does not drip and repels water. £5-7 depending where you buy. I do my cars twice a year or so, all the door hinges, locks and bonnet catch.

My car went to main dealer a few times after purchase, they couldn't even manage to reset the service/inspection interval properly both times. Inspections/service intervals don't really require codes to be checked /cleared unless someone comes in with fault light or real fault. And even then if it's fixed, that's the only one that might get cleared not the whole system. To add, I've lost count the number of VCDS scans I've run for people and not one car has ever been fully clear of at least one "fault" code being logged. Often just merely caused by low battery as mentioned. Nothing to be concerned about for sure.

@ApertureS can we have a time lapse video of you doing the dash strip down in a day😆

Dealer will be likely to take the dashboard out as per workshop manual to access the heater matrix. However it's possible to do without removing the whole dash, hence the massively difference in price!

I'm sure that @langers2k will be up to responding to this some time soon, sounds right up his street being one of the VCDS data communication platform guru's on here

I had the coolant expansion tank replaced and its no longer coming with the bag in it nor a double walled version with silica in a section of it. it does not have Mit Silikat printed on the outside either. Part number for the expansion tank was 5Q0121407M.

Not had matrix replaced as yet and have lived with it for over two years now, I leave the driver vents shut😃, and then allow the warmer passenger side to warm the cabin, it's tolerable as I'm on the south coast and its not really cold for very long periods generally. The garage flushed the coolant twice, but alas it made little difference. Yes part isn't high cost, labour as you say varies where you are, so difficult to determine that cost.

Hi all, I usually have my mirrors folding on lock/unlock but have disabled this in the menu for now as it's been below zero for the last few mornings. But, could the folding mirror mechanism be damaged if the gap between lower and upper part freezes and the motor cannot then move it?, I wondered the motor would have a current overload protection circuit, to know if it's using more energy to stop it trying further?

@Moribund My coolant was that colour sort of rusty, but I never saw silica granules in it, it's odd for sure that it discolours. I had the coolant flushed out twice but alas, the matrix is still cold on drivers side, once blocked with silica beads, it ain't going to come out as the pipes are very thin and cannot be unblocked. I reckon a good indy garage would do the matrix for 3-4 hours labour plus parts. Coolant drained, remove glove box remove heater blower remove matrix. install new matrix reinstall removed parts refill with new coolant and bleed.

Side panel removes easily enough, its just clipped in, not much force required. https://youtu.be/ZD2rOX7xx4A?si=PK2UANdO2m-PFCkk Damper reinstallation can test the patience of a saint😆

DSG oil change dq250 wet clutch requires the oil temperature to be measured via diagnostics to check the refill level properly. Not beyond most garages these days they all have to have diagnostic tools TBF else they'd be out of business.

Chipping the paint off will undoubtedly make the car faster. 😄

Looks smart that battery cover, now do bonnet gas strut mod. It's bliss having it lift up effortlessly.

Heated water enters the matrix and exits from the passenger side. Hence you get heat on one side only as the blockages seem stop water flowing to the driver's side of the matrix. I've not seen issues with only hot air at farthest vents on the forum. There are certainly temperature sensors to control cabin split temperatures and these will modulate the flap valves I think.

It is very probable that your heater matrix is blocked, as these are very typical symptoms. I myself have suffered this, my car is still cooler on drivers side (I get cold hands in winter driving unless I close the vents down,) as not had matrix replaced as yet. it occurred after routine cambelt and water pump drain down. silica in the expansion tank depositing in the matrix (or the bag leaked before this)

Fyi. 80 grams is reputably the maximum "ash" "unburnt bit" that the dpf will hold before replacement is required. This is What vcds reports on screen. What I believe your specialist mentioned, 23g is roughly the trigger at which the car enable a regen. I know this as I have witnessed this trigger point with my own VCDS software. After a regen the values drop to around 13g and then gradually rise again with driving.

Locking Chirp enable disable is in the menu "locking and unlocking" on the infotainment. It does not require coding. Fogs as coming home requires VCDS changes. Adaptions in VCDs are here. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/299424-octavia-iii-vcds-adaptations-tried-and-tested/#comment-3569163 I'm in Brighton with full VCDS should you not find users closer by.

@PetrolDave just because car has front assist does not mean ACC is installed. I have front assist and dumb CC😭 and mine is SEL spec. Thx. @Springbok99 full adaptive cruise can be retrofitted by a few companies around the UK. I've considered it but cost and distance to nearest company was not worth it for my usual driving habits.