Greenline 1.6 or 4x4 2.0?

[Gwilo]

Could someone please provide a real world assessment of a yeti with these two different engine/drivetrain?

I had the 1.6 in a a Golf with the DSG box. Perfectly adequate. Good on fuel.

I'm assuming the Greenline would be comparable to that.

I'm trying to avoid complications in the next car purchase, so a although the toys on the higher spec 4x4 are nice, that and the 4x4 is just now to go wrong. Coming from 3.5 V6 RWD Funbus with more toys than Hamlyns will take some getting used to though.

Thoughts welcomed.

1.6 TDI Greenline 2014, 80k

2.0 TDI 4x4 SE L 2015 but with 132k....makes me nervous...😁

[Urrell]

I think that is only a choice you can make yourself with your needs.
I have a Greenline II in Elegance/SE L trim and am very happy with it and the £30 road tax.
Do you NEED 4x4?

[Gwilo]

32 minutes ago, Urrell said:

I think that is only a choice you can make yourself with your needs.
I have a Greenline II in Elegance/SE L trim and am very happy with it and the £30 road tax.
Do you NEED 4x4?

I don't NEED it, and I guess there's a small degree of additional transmission loss with the 4x4 when it gets going (doesn't the Hakdex usually drive just 2wd? It's not a full blown permanent system)

Some have remarked on here about the Greenline being a touch "crashy" on its ride.... And given the state of roads aren't going to improve anytime soon.... 

I accept it won't be damped like a BMW 5 series....my experience of cars the last seven years has been Volvo XC70, XC90 and a Nissan Elgrand, so not exactly mid size European hatchbacks.....🤨

[J.R.]

The transmission losses are consequent but not as much as a permanent 4wd.

 

If you have ever watched a rolling road run with a coast down to measure transmission losses you will see that they are 15% even on a FWD vehicle.

 

When the Haldex is not engaged the engine has to drive the bevel gear and propshaft against the bearing and windage losses in addition to the aforementioned losses.

 

The rear wheels instead of rotating on a double row ball bearing are rotating a driveshaft and a crown wheel and pinion, the power to overcome those losses is produced by the engine and transmitted via the front wheels.

 

Arguably at a constant speed on a dead straight road the transmission losses would be no greater with the Haldex 100% engaged than with it disengaged, in fact probably less due the the inefficiencies of driving a pinion from the crownwheel.

 

For me the 4x4 is worth the extra fuel consumption and essential when I am towing loaded trailers across my bomb site like terrain.

 

I think the Greenline was compromised in many ways to achieve the CO2 rating, the one most people complain about is the lack of suspension compliance with the wheel and tyre size and that the other (better) wheel and tyre sizes were not homologated, it could be that in the future available tyres for the Greenline will cost more.

[Gwilo]

Without getting too involved at this stage, assuming the correct bolt and offset, and not altering the rolling circumference massively, I could look at a change of wheel/tyre down the line. Prett sure it wouldn't be the last vehicle I buy...😁

[Ootohere]

@Gwilodid your 1.6TDI Golf get the 'emissions fix' carried out and with no adverse affect?

You will have to be pretty sure that a 9 year old Greenline is ok as far as that goes. 

As far as tyre circumference / diameter, that is what you would be increasing if you were going to change things.  Maybe just with tyres and not changing the wheels. 

[Urrell]

4 hours ago, J.R. said:

it could be that in the future available tyres for the Greenline will cost more.

I think the 205x55 R16 tyres on my Greenline are the best size for ride and handling and are about half the price of any of the 17" wheel sizes as so many cars have them fitted so why do you think they will cost more in the future?

[Gwilo]

15 minutes ago, toot said:

@Gwilodid your 1.6TDI Golf get the 'emissions fix' carried out and with no adverse affect?

You will have to be pretty sure that a 9 year old Greenline is ok as far as that goes. 

As far as tyre circumference / diameter, that is what you would be increasing if you were going to change things.  Maybe just with tyres and not changing the wheels. 

Nope, it didn't. Got rid before that.

I hear what you're saying, but had to be an improvement on an 18 year old jap import that takes a week to get parts for😂

[Urrell]

4 hours ago, Gwilo said:

I guess there's a small degree of additional transmission loss with the 4x4 when it gets going (doesn't the Hakdex usually drive just 2wd? It's not a full blown permanent system)

There is also the extra weight of a transfer box, propshaft, Haldex unit, half shafts, larger fuel tank etc.

 

4 hours ago, Gwilo said:

Some have remarked on here about the Greenline being a touch "crashy" on its ride

I think with the 205x55 R16 tyres its a better ride than the 17" wheels, also borne out by those that run 16" wheels and winter or all season tyres in the winter.

[J.R.]

6 minutes ago, Urrell said:

I think the 205x55 R16 tyres on my Greenline are the best size for ride and handling and are about half the price of any of the 17" wheel sizes as so many cars have them fitted so why do you think they will cost more in the future?

From mainly your comments on the thread about the French regsitered car and the lack of homologated tyres, mine has 215/60 R16 tyres which I thought you said were better, given the deeper sidewall it makes sense to me that they would be.

 

I was probably mistaken thinking the Greenline size was not a common one, my speculation (were that the case) would be that they may become difficult to find and hence more expensive in the future.

 

The more wheel/tyre sizes homologated the more choice an owner will have in the future, I look to keep my cars for 10-20 years which means a lifetime for this one, future tyre and parts availability is important to me, not so for someone changing their car every few years.

[J.R.]

44 minutes ago, Gwilo said:

Without getting too involved at this stage, assuming the correct bolt and offset, and not altering the rolling circumference massively, I could look at a change of wheel/tyre down the line. Prett sure it wouldn't be the last vehicle I buy...😁

Understood, thankfully the homologation restrictions are not really an issue in the UK (but a major one in France).

 

Plenty of choices out there.

[Gwilo]

2 hours ago, J.R. said:

Understood, thankfully the homologation restrictions are not really an issue in the UK (but a major one in France).

 

Plenty of choices out there.

 

2 hours ago, J.R. said:

Understood, thankfully the homologation restrictions are not really an issue in the UK (but a major one in France).

 

Plenty of choices out there.

This.

Had a look at a 2014 Greenline.

Nice car.

Shame about the recurring advisories of rear suspension arms being corroded and shocks misted with oil.

Shame, as it was a good price for an 80k motor.

Next up..2015 2.0 TDI with 130k for 8k...🤔

[Ootohere]

@Gwiloyou lost me with the 18 year old jap import that takes weeks to get parts for, have you got one of those?

http://milneroffroad.com

 

As to MOT advisories & rear suspension arms / rust and recurring, that is lime 'misting' of dampers.   Advisories, and recurring.  Not fails.

 

If a car is bought taking in mind those 'Not major MOT fail's'  it can be worth having that parts replaced on a 9 year old Czech import,

 

As it is a 8 year old one might need the same doing in a year or 3. 

Edited 23 May, 2023 by toot

[Gwilo]

@toot not a JDM 4x4. Nissan Elgrand.

Got a good supplier, but have to text to request parts, wait for a price, then down to postage, so usually a 3-4 day turnaround. Fine for service parts, but if something major goes and it's off-road, things snowball...2nd car needed elsewhere, so I can't get to work and it goes on. 

So something where parts are quite a bit easier to come by looks pretty attractive.

[Schtum]

As someone who likes to make good progress, I'm inclined to think that tall FWD cars are a bit daft.  I see so many posts by people complaining about the amount of wheel spin from their FWD Karoqs when they're pulling out of junctions. 

 

Now, I appreciate that a 1.6 TDI wouldn't pull the skin off a ride pudding but even so...  

 

Life's too short, if you want a Yeti, buy a high-spec 150 TDI, have it remapped and drive it quickly on twisty bumpy roads.  They're surprisingly good at that, if a little firmly sprung for really bumpy stuff. 

[b1ackb1rd]

Get the 1.6tdi checked on VCDS for EGR, DPF and injector faults. 

 

And then reject it anyway because those faults will appear pretty soon anyway. 

[Gwilo]

I would prefer the 2.0, but the two I've looked at today were somewhat leggy and big red flags...131k, never had the cambelt and pump changed, rust blemishes bubbling under lower door paintwork and odd roof dents.

 

[Schtum]

Have you set a budget?  

[Gwilo]

Those were in budget...7-8k, the proceeds from sale of the Nissan.

I know it won't be perfect, but the level of neglect was shocking.

[Schtum]

29 minutes ago, Gwilo said:

Those were in budget...7-8k, the proceeds from sale of the Nissan.

I know it won't be perfect, but the level of neglect was shocking.

 

I suspect that's related to the inflated prices that people are asking for good ones and that tendency is trickling down to the poorer specimens.

 

I bought my 2106, SE L Drive 150 TDI in early 2020 with 32k miles on it and paid £11,750 in a private sale.  About 18 months ago WBAC offered me £14,500 for it. Recently Auto Trader quoted me a value of £12K at 50k miles. 

 

Finding anything very good for that kind of money might prove to be tough.  There's a Yeti sales page on Facebook which might be worth a look.   https://www.facebook.com/groups/134163440694299

[J.R.]

6 hours ago, Schtum said:

buy a high-spec 150 TDI, have it remapped and drive it quickly on twisty bumpy roads.

 

Whilst heel and toeing with a glass of water on the bonnet!

[Schtum]

Just now, J.R. said:

 

Whilst heel and toeing with a glass of water on the bonnet!

 

Quelle bonne idée mon brave. 👍 

[b1ackb1rd]

I bought my 2010 2.0tdi S in 2020 with 120k in shocking condition for £2700, it now has about 155k has just passed it's MOT with no advisories and runs like a swiss watch, fuel economy is excellent and we never notice regens. 

 

I bought my 2012 1.6tdi S in 2021 with 105k in shocking condition for £3000, it now has 135k has just passed it's MOT with no advisories, it has horrible diesel knock off idle, but otherwise runs ok, regens every 350 odd miles miles with an associated horrible stink and horrible fuel economy at all times. 

 

 

 

[J.R.]

I bought my accident damaged 2015 2.0 TDi Outdoor in 2020 for £3200 with 79K on the clock.

 

It cost £800 to repair to an acceptable condition, it will never be a class 1 car and it takes a lot of abuse, minor bodywork damage mostly just touched up and compounded, 3 x dashboard & steering wheel airbags deployed plus seatbelt pretensioners, reconditioned dashboard fitted which has invisible repair where ruptured by airbag.

 

It has now done 125K miles, has never let me down and gives excellent fuel economy for a flat fronted brick with 4wd, I no longer hear or notice any regens after having the emissions fix rolled back.

 

At the time it did not seem a great deal after I had finished the work, the 2 Yetis that Blackbird bought bear that out but it was a fraction of the cost of one in France. I cannot believe how much they have gone up in price since then, its academic to me but I dont feel so bad now about how much I spent.

 

Also if I was not bored and surfing for a project I would never have owned a Yeti and not realised what a great vehicle they are.