Is the outer CV free from the wheel bearing yet? 

It's not clear to me from that description.

Photo?

32 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Is the outer CV free from the wheel bearing yet? 

It's not clear to me from that description.

Photo?

The outer CV joint is out of the hub and so the drive shaft if free at the outer end. The inner end has five flange bolts removed but one has had the head drilled out. i have knocked the inner flange with a hammer and tried to get wd 40 into the flange.

All I can suggest is pull harder. Maybe wrap/tie a rope around the driveshaft and pull from a way away so you can get a better body position?

 

32 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

All I can suggest is pull harder. Maybe wrap/tie a rope around the driveshaft and pull from a way away so you can get a better body position?

 

I pulled harder and the inner cv boot came away and surly I might pull the inner cv joint out. One of the bolts have been drilled out but i don't think its that. Can they rust together?

Thanks.

Give it a good tap all the way round with a soft faced hammer.

47 minutes ago, sepulchrave said:

Give it a good tap all the way round with a soft faced hammer.

I have done that. First a light tap and then harder. I put a drift between the two faces and tried to tap them apart but here is no movement at all. I applied some toilet lime-scale remover along the gap so the acid breaks up any rust but realised this could cause damage to the components. It's hard to see. Is WD40 the best thing to use? It doesn't seam to break up hard rust.

thanks 

Has the head of the bolt you drilled completely gone?

The head is completely gone and i drilled it a bit more to get rid of any blur. There would be a small amount of play that

stub was the only problem but i might have to remove it with a bolt extractor. I think rust is in that joint.

If you pull on the shaft and there is the stub of one bolt in the flange then it will jam, they are fitted bolts in close tolerance reamed holes.

 

Refit the bolt opposite or better still all the other bolts but leave them loose, then pull away and/or give it the good news with your hammer of choice, that way it will withdraw in alignment without jamming, once it has moved a little it will come off easily with the bolts removed.

Edited 12 August, 20232 yr by J.R.

I have got the cv drive out but in doing so broke the bearings and cage they sit in. Do I need a complete inner cv joint or 

just the cage and bearings?

thanks.

Complete joint. Don't think you can get just the bearings/cage.

On 11/08/2023 at 21:35, J.R. said:

give it the good news with your hammer of choice,

 

2 hours ago, richardmac12345 said:

I have got the cv drive out but in doing so broke the bearings and cage they sit in.

 

You chose too big a hammer!

I'm also putting in a new lower control arm or wishbone it is unbolted and needs to be pulled out. I'm using a crowbar to leaver it out 

but it won't move. Part of the reason is i have the car jacked up. any suggestions please?

Use another jack to lift the hub and take the tension off the lower arm.

It's unbolted and out of the hub and free but one end needs to be pulled out from the bush.

2 hours ago, richardmac12345 said:

It's unbolted and out of the hub and free but one end needs to be pulled out from the bush.

 

Use a ratchet strap attached to something big, like another car or van.

I decided to put it back and found I had moved it a few mm so it moves but needs a lot of force. I have done one on Fabia and it wasn't as hard as this car.

Is there a guide about wheel alignment on a skoda fabisa? I think I can go to a local workshop that has a wheel alignment tool.

You can only realistically set the toe using the track rods, IIRC it needs to be zero degrees plus or minus a few seconds.