Hello everybody, i have a Skoda Fabia 2014 1.6 diesel elegance, both front passenger and driver windows keep stop working no fuses blown, when they do work there is a clicking sound on the drivers window when it is fully up, can anyone shed any light on this problem ?, i would be much appreciated if anyone can and i can fix it myself, thanks in advance,

    Jamie

 

 

If you haven't already looked for broken wires between door and body, that's where I would start.

32 minutes ago, dimple said:

Hello everybody, i have a Skoda Fabia 2014 1.6 diesel elegance, both front passenger and driver windows keep stop working no fuses blown, when they do work there is a clicking sound on the drivers window when it is fully up, can anyone shed any light on this problem ?, i would be much appreciated if anyone can and i can fix it myself, thanks in advance,

    Jamie

Take a look at Breezy_pete's post it will help you a lot, I to suffered the same issue as you mentioned and it was a combination of the door / car connection and also the felt type guide  runners in the window frame, I used a silicone spray in the runners don't use WD40 which is good but will swell these guides, after spraying both sides of the runner on both doors the window up and down improved but as was mentioned the real problem was the connection I removed the plug used a degreaser then WD40 dried it off then used a commercial type vaseline on the connections this seemed to sort this out... forgot to say I found it easier to remove the door open stay to allow the door to open right up it was esier to get at the plug connection but be careful it's not windy as door can fold into your wing without this stay attatched I used an old cushion taped to the door as I was on my own doing this job but well worth it as the windows never played up again 

Thank you for your advice, i will look at the car / door electrical connections to see if this will fix it

Problem sorted, broken wires between door and body but all working again now, much thanks for your advice on this matter,  Jamie

On 18/08/2023 at 16:14, dimple said:

Problem sorted, broken wires between door and body but all working again now, much thanks for your advice on this matter,  Jamie

Did you buy a loom? If you did, did you go OEM or ebay? Or did your mechanic just solder the wires? 

 

About to fix mine, and obviously want to do a decent fix for the lowest price. 

Hi, no i didn't buy a loom, i used a 5 amp connector block and insulation tape, it was a little tight for space but pulling out the door rubber grommet helped with access

9 hours ago, Robdataff said:

About to fix mine, and obviously want to do a decent fix for the lowest price. 

 

Then whatever you do do not follow the bodge that Dimple has done as it will bite you back in the future.

 

No form of joining should be done within the door loop bellows aside from a get you home bodge, soldering especially as any soldered cable subject to repeated flexing will fail.

 

You can buy kits of the connectors and pre-terminated wires so that the joins can be made within the protected area of the door, any joins there should still be of a good standard, soldered or crimped and well insulated, certainly not chocolate block connectors or Dominoes as they are known in France.

Yeah, that's true. I'm probably gonna take the door off, lay it on my table and just fit a new loom from fleabay. Maybe a febi, maybe a generic. The original looms are around £130 each, from a post from breezy Pete. And they'll still require door card removal I believe. 

 

 

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

Then whatever you do do not follow the bodge that Dimple has done as it will bite you back in the future

This may be a tad overdramatic in this context JR. The wire failing again is unlikely to cause any catastrophe, and many other things may have caused the car to be off the road before then.

Agreed, the fault will most likely to be the same as before but it is a very unsatisfactory repair (other than in an emergency) for wiring anywhere in the vehicle let alone inside the door loop. Come back and bite you meant to convey that it would fail again probably at a very inconvenient time.

 

When I built my first Westfield I fell in with some younger enthusiastic kit builders in my area, one needed to shorten the handbrake cable so simply cut it and clamped the pieces together with the brass inner of a chocolate block 😒

 

I wont even use them on house wiring now, I only use Wagos despite being the tightest guy on earth and my pal giving me a huge boxload of Dominoes when he switched to Wagos, the crafty blighter also gave me some mixed samples of Wagos to try out, like him there was no going back.

Edited 21 September, 20232 yr by J.R.

1 hour ago, Robdataff said:

Yeah, that's true. I'm probably gonna take the door off, lay it on my table and just fit a new loom from fleabay. Maybe a febi, maybe a generic.

 

I bought a kit of the connector and loose pre-terminated wires as a precaution for the day when my drivers door cables start failing, of course it might be the tailgate.

For the sake of one more connector on the door and a seperate door loop made of flexible wire cores VAG vehicles would never have suffered any of these problems, I understand the cost implications for not doing so but a different design of the loop and bellows could have removed the strain from the cables, how do other manufacturers do it?

Hi all

 

I have a 2010 Fabia 1.2 HTP

 

My central locking started behaving strangely, then later the electric windows stopped working. This happened in the queue to a Macdonalds drive through!. I couldn't open the window to pay,  then I found the door wouldn't open even using the unlock button, fortunately I have manual rear windows so had to climb in the back and wind down the window to pay. Then I had to climb out of the back window to get out and use key to open door.

I searched the net found this website and discovered the common door wiring loom problem. I had a look at the loom and sure enough there were a couple of broken wires, I soldered them back together just to see if that fixed the problem. It did fix the windows but the central locking was still being weird. That turned out to be two faults, the first was bad contacts in the door lock mechanism, the second was green corrosion on the pins on the connector to the window motor. This last one made everything go back to normal and it's been working fine for the last 6 months.

I was surprised to find the furry greenness on that connector as its not inside of the door but is behind the door card!