Flashing coil light 😱

[jaykyu]

Hi

 

I got the flashing coil of doom earlier and the car went into limp mode. 
 

I know I need to get the error codes checked out. Is there any way of cheaply doing this myself to get a feel for what the issue might be?

[Paws4Thot]

1 hour ago, jaykyu said:

 

I know I need to get the error codes checked out. Is there any way of cheaply doing this myself to get a feel for what the issue might be?

With the aid of an assistant, check whether or not the brake lights work. If none of them do, replace the brake light switch.

[J.R.]

Which one? There are two.

 

Badly worded, there are two switch contacts from brake pedal operation, one for the ECU the other for the brake lights, I cant recall if they are two contacts in the same switch housing or seperate switches, if the latter you will need to specify which one.

Edited 26 November, 2023 by J.R.

[jaykyu]

29 minutes ago, Paws4Thot said:

With the aid of an assistant, check whether or not the brake lights work. If none of them do, replace the brake light switch.

All seems to be working. 

[pikpilot]

2 hours ago, jaykyu said:

Hi

 

I got the flashing coil of doom earlier and the car went into limp mode. 
 

I know I need to get the error codes checked out. Is there any way of cheaply doing this myself to get a feel for what the issue might be?

 

A common cause for going into limp mode in a diesel car (you don't tell us your engine code) is the variable vane turbo becoming stuck by a build up of carbon deposits. If you stop the car when in limp mode, turn off the engine then restart it, the limp mode will be reset.

If it happens again when requesting high torque (such when going uphill or when overtaking) then that is a good indication of the turbo problem I mentioned.

 

You can buy an ELM 327 unit to plug into the diagnostic port for a small sum. This connects to your phone or laptop (via bluetooth or WiFi) to read fault codes via suitable apps.

Use google and YouTube to educate yourself if you are new to this.

 

[jaykyu]

39 minutes ago, pikpilot said:

 

A common cause for going into limp mode in a diesel car (you don't tell us your engine code) is the variable vane turbo becoming stuck by a build up of carbon deposits. If you stop the car when in limp mode, turn off the engine then restart it, the limp mode will be reset.

If it happens again when requesting high torque (such when going uphill or when overtaking) then that is a good indication of the turbo problem I mentioned.

 

You can buy an ELM 327 unit to plug into the diagnostic port for a small sum. This connects to your phone or laptop (via bluetooth or WiFi) to read fault codes via suitable apps.

Use google and YouTube to educate yourself if you are new to this.

 

Thanks. It happened attempting an overtake. I stopped the car and switched engine off. Restarted and light was off so drove on. Fairly fast road and it came on again after maybe 5 to 10 miles and quite possibly uphill but I can’t recall the exact spot. 
 

On the way back I took it much easier, driving gently and the light didn’t come on so what you’re describing is consistent with what happened. 
 

And it is a diesel, yes. 

[krisp1]

Brake light switch problems being indicated by the flashing glow plug light symbol is one of the myths that forums keep peddling. I had this on a 2006 2.0tdi. It had a hall effect brake light switch on the brake master cylinder. The root cause was dirty connection to the throttle pedal. I cleaned it and cleared the error and the issue went away.

I found it by investing in VCDS which I have used many times over the past ten years. Guess work and forums do not work unless you are lucky.

 

[pikpilot]

Looks like your due a turbo clean or replacement. On my Mk1 Octavia I was able to send the turbo away to a specialist turbo cleaner company but I have never seen one advertising in recent years.

So, look up Mr Muscle cleaning on this and the Mk1 forums or convince yourself that at the current mileage (you don't say what it is) it is probably worth replacing the turbo now for peace of mind.

 

[T2000]

On 27/11/2023 at 10:39, krisp1 said:

Brake light switch problems being indicated by the flashing glow plug light symbol is one of the myths that forums keep peddling. I had this on a 2006 2.0tdi. It had a hall effect brake light switch on the brake master cylinder. The root cause was dirty connection to the throttle pedal. I cleaned it and cleared the error and the issue went away.

I found it by investing in VCDS which I have used many times over the past ten years. Guess work and forums do not work unless you are lucky.

 

Not really a myth, I've had 2 VAG cars throw a glowplug light and both times it was the brake light switch on the pedal, replacing them cleared the light, they are a one shot fit, although it was a 2003 Passat and a 2004 Golf so maybe they redesigned the brake light switch?

[J.R.]

You do not usually need to stop the vehicle to reset the turbo actuator, just cycling the ignition should do it.

 

100% the case on a MK1 Octavia, I must have done it hundreds if not thousands of times over the years, I cant be so confident on the MK2 as I can't be sure the vanes stuck on mine but I had cycled the ignition several times when it did throw funnies and it always resolved it but it was not a regular thing like on the MK1.

 

Oven cleaner enema recommended if in doubt.

[J.R.]

On 27/11/2023 at 12:25, pikpilot said:

Looks like your due a turbo clean or replacement. On my Mk1 Octavia I was able to send the turbo away to a specialist turbo cleaner company but I have never seen one advertising in recent years.

So, look up Mr Muscle cleaning on this and the Mk1 forums or convince yourself that at the current mileage (you don't say what it is) it is probably worth replacing the turbo now for peace of mind.

 

My turbo was still working like a sewing machine albeit one with an oven cleaner addiction at 325000 miles, the Touran which replaced it (for my chauffeur pal who sold it to me) I lost count of how many turbos he paid out for, it ran to over £10K on a similar mileage, all because he would not cycle the ignition while carrying punters (I get that) and used the main dealer for repairs and servicing, one can of oven cleaner would have saved him £10K +

 

I would not get any piece of mind from a pattern part or reconditioned turbo for a vehicle long out of production, the same goes for most of the factory fitted parts that have not let go or are repairable.

 

All that car ever had was one £8 timing belt at 250000 miles no tensioner pulleys, no water pump, also a set of brushes in the original alternator (came as an assembly with regulator) and a second hand coolant temp sensor.

[J.R.]

On 27/11/2023 at 11:39, krisp1 said:

Brake light switch problems being indicated by the flashing glow plug light symbol is one of the myths that forums keep peddling. I had this on a 2006 2.0tdi. It had a hall effect brake light switch on the brake master cylinder. The root cause was dirty connection to the throttle pedal. I cleaned it and cleared the error and the issue went away.

I found it by investing in VCDS which I have used many times over the past ten years. Guess work and forums do not work unless you are lucky.

 

 

That your car had a different failure does not mean its a myth, VCDS is definitely the way to go, I wish I had done so many years before but the MK1 was just too reliable and did not need it until in hindsight the end.

[pikpilot]

49 minutes ago, J.R. said:

You do not usually need to stop the vehicle to reset the turbo actuator, just cycling the ignition should do it.

But you loose the power steering and potentially power assisted braking unless you are very quick. I found that out the hard way.

 

[krisp1]

From 2005 it is a hall effect switch on the master cylinder, not a pedal switch. So people are unhelpful trotting out pedal switch failure without qualification for cars post 2005 as in this case.

[J.R.]

27 minutes ago, pikpilot said:

But you loose the power steering and potentially power assisted braking unless you are very quick. I found that out the hard way.

Of course you do it quickly and not when you are driving through bends or needing to brake although it sounds like you took the vehicle out of gear and allowed the engine to stall which is unnecessary and creates a risk, all you need to do is release the throttle and flick the ignition on and off, takes a fraction of  a second, the throttle release is not essential but prevents snatching when combustion resumes.

[jaykyu]

On 26/11/2023 at 22:21, pikpilot said:

 

A common cause for going into limp mode in a diesel car (you don't tell us your engine code) is the variable vane turbo becoming stuck by a build up of carbon deposits. If you stop the car when in limp mode, turn off the engine then restart it, the limp mode will be reset.

If it happens again when requesting high torque (such when going uphill or when overtaking) then that is a good indication of the turbo problem I mentioned.

 

You can buy an ELM 327 unit to plug into the diagnostic port for a small sum. This connects to your phone or laptop (via bluetooth or WiFi) to read fault codes via suitable apps.

Use google and YouTube to educate yourself if you are new to this.

 

I’ve got the fault code P046C00. Faulty EGR valve which is apparently a nightmare to replace on the 1.6tdi engine. 
 

I’ve had this car from new. It’s 11 years old and it’s now done 126,000 miles.

[pikpilot]

A

11 hours ago, jaykyu said:

I’ve got the fault code P046C00. Faulty EGR valve which is apparently a nightmare to replace on the 1.6tdi engine. 
 

I’ve had this car from new. It’s 11 years old and it’s now done 126,000 miles.

 

At your mileage if this is first time the EGR has failed then you are doing well. I assume you did not have the dieselgate "update" or you would typically be on your third or fourth by now.

Unfortunately, its location means there is a lot of labour charge to replace the EGR and cooler assembly.

[jaykyu]

11 hours ago, pikpilot said:

A

 

At your mileage if this is first time the EGR has failed then you are doing well. I assume you did not have the dieselgate "update" or you would typically be on your third or fourth by now.

Unfortunately, its location means there is a lot of labour charge to replace the EGR and cooler assembly.

It actually has had the update quite a few years ago now. At least I now know what I’m dealing with!

[jaykyu]

A bit more on this. I called a local VAG specialist and he says that the EGR valves have been redesigned as a result of failures. It is very likely related to the software update and he also says that some people have successfully claimed replacement costs from Skoda. Not sure if anyone else has had experience of this?

If not, I'm looking at a grand to fix it.

[J.R.]

Your chances of them forking out for an 11 year old vehicle are somewhere between No Hope and Bob Hope.

 

I believe they offered some sort of protection for a year or 18 months against consequential failures from the Emissions Fix as an inducement to bring in the pigeons, was yours done recently?

[jaykyu]

4 minutes ago, J.R. said:

Your chances of them forking out for an 11 year old vehicle are somewhere between No Hope and Bob Hope.

 

I believe they offered some sort of protection for a year or 18 months against consequential failures from the Emissions Fix as an inducement to bring in the pigeons, was yours done recently?

Two years protection but it was done in 2017. I think you're right that my chances are slim but I'll ask the question.

[J.R.]

That you are the one owner from new might add some weight.

[jaykyu]

So this is now fixed at a costs of about a grand. 
 

Skoda didn’t cover it. Unsurprising at 11 years and 126k miles!

 

Car driving really well now though.