If you have dsg as well, I wouldn't even think about doing what you are planning without 4 post carlift or a scissor lift...I have my own scissor lift in home garage, so for me it is easy. Remember the dsg gearbox with transferbox weighs in about 100-125kg if not more. Not a pleasent one to handle on the floor with jackstands... Taking it dow is ok, but assemble it back in...its a pITA lying on the floor trying to maneuvre it with a garagejack...keep that in mind if you have dsg. Manual i lighter and one can disassemble the transfer box from the gearbox to save weight. Makes it easier. I have a gearbix jack that makes life much better, but it is still a bit struggle to get it on due to the weight.

25 minutes ago, rbhelle said:

Because on mine with 221 000km it is going to fail sooner or later. It is a very common fail on skodas. Since mine is a 4x4 DSG you have to take down the gearbox to access the egr cooler. The part itself is maybe 100 GBP, but the labor....puh, 6-7 hours. So, I replace it just to be sure when the gearbox is down for other reasons 😀

Ahhhh so mine being the same 4x4 DSG too...I'm only 38,000 miles behind you...This is another worthy mention, and like you say 6-7 hours labour to replace it after everything is coming out like you I'd already thought of the driveshaft seal on gearbox side...However I'd never thought of this, so I better add that onto the list now to price up again 🙃🙃🙃🙃 This £130, seal failure is really starting to ramp up the budget especially as I'm deciding to replace the Flywheel as that is coated in oil from the leak and that is flinging it around the engine bay at present!

 

The indy is going to love me asking to change the quote again 🙄🙄🙄 Especially as I'm trying to do a lot of preventative maintenance at the same time which I'm sure they think I'm mad but it's more efficient to do all these bits while the engine and associated parts are lying about the floor before it goes back together again.

 

I'm now wondering what else I have forgotten which I should replace now before it goes taken apart and put back together again!

 

Thanks for that advice though! 😃😃😃

Edited 21 August, 20241 yr by G1980

18 minutes ago, rbhelle said:

If you have dsg as well, I wouldn't even think about doing what you are planning without 4 post carlift or a scissor lift...I have my own scissor lift in home garage, so for me it is easy. Remember the dsg gearbox with transferbox weighs in about 100-125kg if not more. Not a pleasent one to handle on the floor with jackstands... Taking it dow is ok, but assemble it back in...its a pITA lying on the floor trying to maneuvre it with a garagejack...keep that in mind if you have dsg. Manual i lighter and one can disassemble the transfer box from the gearbox to save weight. Makes it easier. I have a gearbix jack that makes life much better, but it is still a bit struggle to get it on due to the weight.

That's great advice as i didn't know I'd be facing that as a hurdle to be honest I never truly appreciated that weight 🫢🫢🫢

 

Looks like my decision maybe completely swayed...I supply all the parts and order them now in case of delays and book it into independent to do in October when I'm less busy at home and work and can afford to lose it for 2 days+...Plus they can have all the heart ache and tears trying to reposition 125kg gearboxes around with the proper equipment rather than me killing myself.

 

The budget has now got a lot larger.

 

When we move I'm hoping to get a bigger garage, Mrs already wants one anyway for her 2 cars and look into some sort of proprietary lifting system so we can work on all 4 easier and eliminate the external contractors as much as possible...

 

Be oversight by me there on the weight side of it! 🙄🙄🙄😬😬😬😳😳😳

Well, I wouldn't disagree with you on that one. I checked the repair manual now, and it is quite a job just to replace the oil seal. Engine must be at top dead center, so you will have to use some special tool there as well. Even in my home garage thats has a scissor lift and engine jack, there will be a full days job++ on this one. I just bought the T10134 special tool now from autodoc. Just under 87GBP for it and a new seal from Febi Bilstein I paid 43GBP. Again, your EGR cooler could last another 60-100 000 miles... I guess your engine had only 100 000 miles in it (160000km)? So, it may not be necessary to replace egr cooler just to be sure/preventive. On the other and, when all "****" is down on the floor, at least replace the dual mass flywheel that is almost a certainty that will fail within the next 25-50 000 miles (40-80 000km).

To sum up what I pay to do all we have discussed is only premium parts:

LuK dual mass flywheel: 252GBP

EGR cooler: 130GBP

Oil seal: 43GBP

Febi Bilstein DSG service kit with 7ltr oil, bolts/gasket rings and filter for dsg: 80GBP

Landing a total of approx 500GBP in parts.

Planning to use a weekend on the job. Have done this 2 times before, so luckily I know what to do. I am using the electronic Elsawin repairmanual.

 

So, there are a lot of money saved if you do it yourself. Actually, it is not that hard if you have some guidance from a friend or colleague. But, you really do have to have access to a proper carlifter and gearbox jack when we talk about diesel 4x4 dsg. Actually, haven't seen anyone on youtube doing this operation only with floorstands. Think it is a reason for that....

I did replace flywheel on my daughters' VW Golf only with jackstands. No need to take down the subframe either. But again, that manual 2wd 5sp gearbox doesn't weigh that much. So on the floor using my knee as support, it went on and off quite easily. Couldn't have been more than 50-60kg.

 

 

18 hours ago, rbhelle said:

I just bought......now from autodoc.

 

I guess your engine had only 100 000 miles in it (160000km)

LuK dual mass flywheel: 252GBP

 

Hey @rbhelle,

 

How you doing!

 

Yeah you're right she celebrating her 10th birthday passing 100,000 miles (160,000 km).

 

I just commented on your servicing ease post agreeing with you...accept my skill to pay the bills on this rear oil seal are way beyond my pay grade after doing research on Erwin Wednesday afternoon and your comments on weights was the final straw, so I've bit the bullet!!!

 

I've committed to £800 labour alone (14 hours work for everything specced) Inc VAT to have everything done we spoke about (including replacing the lifetime (in both of the final drives) differential oil) bar the EGR Valve cooler...

 

It's a gamble that may not pay off looking into how frequently they get done on this forum and the fact that the Indy actually said we hold quite a few in our actually stock at any time.  As there's no record of mine ever changing including on electronic main dealer service records, as the Indy place did the search for me again to double check...I can't believe that it has lasted 6 figures in terms of mileage and double figures in years...That has definitely been "deleted" in my opinion, though I can find no evidence of emulators fitted!

 

I cannot realistically believe mine has lasted this long and my EGR Valve Cooler was the "bell curve" statistical anomaly at the other end of the scale and was built perfectly for the job 🤣🤣🤣

 

Out of interest for AutoDoc how do you find them as I've read very mixed reviews on them and some of my friends have had mixed experiences dealing with them too, some good, some very bad...so I've never done business with them in the end to be honest, just interested in your findings too!

 

I have brought the LUK Fly wheel from skoda-parts.com and have used them lots of times for genuine parts with great delivery times and price.

 

The LUK Flywheel for this CFGB engine from them comes in at €329 or roughly £278 at the current exchange rate at time of purchase.

 

I'm very pleased this is very close to your price, which means they're still very competitive and I know their service levels/parts quality from previously.  I'd always gladly spend more to not deal with shysters as my time is not worth the hassle!

 

You'll hear from me sooner if my EGR Valve Cooler does fail though...😬😬😬

 

One thing I did notice my EGR Valve Cooler is a lot more expensive online than your quoted priced...but again that may be an age/engine code specification difference.  That's why I wasn't prepared to gamble on replacing a "deleted" one to just be on the safe side...🤔🤔🤔

 

Thanks for all your advice and help.

 

Dan

 

4 hours ago, G1980 said:

 

I use and pay for subscription to www.partslink24.com.

This is in fact original deales parts database as long as you have the VIN number of your car. Especially VW, Audi, Skoda cars is very easy for me to find the exact original oe partnumber to use as a search in autodoc. Always get the correct part from them. Often people just trust what autodoc says based on car model, year and make. But that can actually vary a bit and the only viable search is to use oe number in autodoc. I pay approx 25 euro each month for my 1 year subscription and it has saved me a lot of PITA from returning or look at a wrong received part from them when under the car. But, I must also say, I do have 3-4 VW, Audi, Skoda cars that I do own repairs and maintenance on. So, for me, this subscription is not only optional for me, it is a "must have". Autodoc is by far the most affordable parts supplier in Norway, even if I have to wait 1-2 working weeks from order to delivery. Also in autodoc when using oe partnumber, I can choose what brand and quality I want. Often I end up with oe parts like Sachs, Lemförder, LuK, Bosch, Magneti Marelli, Valeo, Pierburg, Zimmermann, ATE/TRW, Mannfilters. But also Febi, Mahle, Meyle, SKF, Monroe, HEPU.

You are lucky to not living in Norway, because up here the retail price for only changing the dual mass flywheel/clutchset on a manual 2011 4x4 skoda is 3072 GBP labour and parts included. And this is at a non brand workshop (but a recommended one).

That is why so many of cars that have done 125 000miles (200 000km) or more are sold at pretty cheap pricing up here.

 

The complete clutch packet and also timing/waterpump replacement is due when cars up here in norway reach that mileage. Timing belt/waterpump replacement at a wellknown non-brand workshop that uses premium parts is priced at approx 1153 GBP (labour/parts incl).

So add that to the clutch and any person that doesn't do their own repairs, and there are many out of those here, you are looking to pay approx 4200 GBP+ when diesel cars from VAG/Skoda reaches those mileage numbers.

 

People more than often chooses to sell the cars for less than 1900GBP on the used cars sales market. Dunno how it is in UK, but that is a fact in Norway due to high repair costs (it all went straight up noticably after corona pandemic and the war in Ucraine)

I found the specs for the DQ250 when it comes to weight. 109kg empty, add 8kg oil and then the transfercase (appr. 15kg) altogether I guess you are looking at 135kg++ 

So not for everyone to handle lying on the floor with jackstands when it comes to mounting it back on I guess.

 

So when I am doing my flywheel, I will disassemble the transfercase in-situ and empty all oils in both the dsg and front diff to save weight. My "gearboxjack" is actually a hydraulic MC lifter that max's out at 135kg.

 

Removing the combined gearbox and transfer box (78kg in my case) is a peace of pi55 if you think it through before proceeding.

 

You will already have fitted an engine support beam to support the engine and transmission when the mounts are removed, a pair of ratchet straps around that will support and lower the gearbox and transfer box slowly and in complete safety by one person but its easier with two, one watching and directing the other lowering.

 

I was in a pit and lowered the assembly onto a couple of timbers laid across it, if you want to slide it out sideways then you may need to lift one side of the car up higher, there is no need for a transmission jack.

 

Regarding the EGR cooler I opted to fit a £99 emulator/simulator so that it no longer passes gases, this also means I no longer have to periodically clean the throttle valve and intake tract, no blanking plates fitted at present as the EGR is in the closed position, if the heat exchanger does eventually leak water, unlikely now there are no corrosive gases passing, then I will blank off the cooling pipes using the bits from the kit.

 

That flywheel sound expensive, I paid €308 for a 3 way clutch kit with DMF and concentric slave cylinder including delivery from Spain, it was a LUK kit.

Edited 23 August, 20241 yr by J.R.

Why does engine need to be at TDC to replace rear main oil seal and what does the special tool look like/do? Is it for removing the seal? - I have handmade winkling tools for that or a shim sleeve to protect the inner lip being damaged during fitting?

43 minutes ago, rbhelle said:

People more than often chooses to sell the cars for less than 1900GBP on the used cars sales market. Dunno how it is in UK, but that is a fact in Norway due to high repair costs (it all went straight up noticably after corona pandemic and the war in Ucraine)

 

That is interesting!

 

How much are they going for these days after Covid etc? Used prices have gone silly in the UK since Covid, they always were in France and remain so!

On 22/08/2024 at 13:44, rbhelle said:

But, you really do have to have access to a proper carlifter and gearbox jack when we talk about diesel 4x4 dsg. Actually, haven't seen anyone on youtube doing this operation only with floorstands. Think it is a reason for that....

 

I see no reason why a DSG should not be done in the same manner that I did mine, its safe in that you are not under the vehicle like you would under a lift and the gearbox does not have far to fall should things go wrong, better than lowering on a trolley jack because that is very unstable even if strapped on and it lifts the tall transmission a further 100mm + off the floor making it harder to extricate although there may be no need, it can just sit there while the clutch and flywheel are replaced.

 

One esential tool or precaution to take is make sure the cross-member is refitted in precisely the same alignment otherwise the vehicle can crab alarmingly, don't ask me how I know!!!!

2 minutes ago, J.R. said:

 

That is interesting!

 

How much are they going for these days after Covid etc? Used prices have gone silly in the UK since Covid, they always were in France and remain so!

2010 ish Octavia diesel 2wd from 1500-2500 gbp depending on rustmarks etc. And for that price more than often clutch and timing is not done. 4wd is more expensive. But I just bought and repaired a 2010 4wd octavia 125 000miles with timingbelt/waterpump, clutch issues. Did full service brake pads, haldex, oil filters, manifold issues, a/c issues and sold it for 4000 gbp. It was bought for 384gbp. Yes you heard it correct 384gbp 😀 It has to be said that the previous owner really wanted to get rid of it to the scrapyard. My expences on that one was 846gbp in parts. It went straight through norwegian MOT test.

35 minutes ago, J.R. said:

 

I see no reason why a DSG should not be done in the same manner that I did mine, its safe in that you are not under the vehicle like you would under a lift and the gearbox does not have far to fall should things go wrong, better than lowering on a trolley jack because that is very unstable even if strapped on and it lifts the tall transmission a further 100mm + off the floor making it harder to extricate although there may be no need, it can just sit there while the clutch and flywheel are replaced.

 

One esential tool or precaution to take is make sure the cross-member is refitted in precisely the same alignment otherwise the vehicle can crab alarmingly, don't ask me how I know!!!!

I use locating pins/bolts, so no need for alignment. But yes no difference between dsg or manual when the equipment is right. G1980 and I discussed the difference if on does not have the tools you refer to. Aka lying on the floor wriggling the gearbox in place from chest as one can see many do on youtube. G1980 doesnt have all tools except jackstands and a garagejack I guess. It is a difference with manual 2wd box at 79kg and a dsg 4x4 at 135kg... I did a manual 04A 2wd box myself lying on the floor and lifted it up with the help of my knee to manouvre and support it in place. Easy peasy, but 135kg with transferbox....not som much 😉

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

Why does engine need to be at TDC to replace rear main oil seal and what does the special tool look like/do? Is it for removing the seal? - I have handmade winkling tools for that or a shim sleeve to protect the inner lip being damaged during fitting?

It is for mounting it without risk of damaging it. Look at this link: 

 

 

Tdc is also to avoid timing issues with crankshaft position sensor since the seal needs to be mounted in a special way. All that is secured with the us of T10134.

3 hours ago, rbhelle said:

It is for mounting it without risk of damaging it. Look at this link: 

 

 

Tdc is also to avoid timing issues with crankshaft position sensor since the seal needs to be mounted in a special way. All that is secured with the us of T10134.

 

I could easily knock up something for the correct alignment of the reluctor ringbut it looks like the issue is getting the correct depth of the oil seal and reluctor ring and them being at 90° to the crankshaft axis because VAG did not fit a stepped counterbore.

 

Good to know, thanks for the info.

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

I could easily knock up something for the correct alignment of the reluctor ringbut it looks like the issue is getting the correct depth of the oil seal and reluctor ring and them being at 90° to the crankshaft axis because VAG did not fit a stepped counterbore.

 

Good to know, thanks for the info.

Well, if u ask any eastern european from low cost counties, they would argue that special tools are overly overrated and TOTALLY unnessecary, heheh. Eyemeasure and hammers do the trick 😆 Lots of videos on youtube 😉 Anyway, correct distance is up till 0,5mm from seal to plate according to vag specs.

11 hours ago, rbhelle said:

You are lucky to not living in Norway, because up here the retail price for only changing the dual mass flywheel/clutchset on a manual 2011 4x4 skoda is 3072 GBP labour and parts included. And this is at a non brand workshop (but a recommended one).

That is why so many of cars that have done 125 000miles (200 000km) or more are sold at pretty cheap pricing up here.

 

The complete clutch packet and also timing/waterpump replacement is due when cars up here in norway reach that mileage. Timing belt/waterpump replacement at a wellknown non-brand workshop that uses premium parts is priced at approx 1153 GBP (labour/parts incl).

So add that to the clutch and any person that doesn't do their own repairs, and there are many out of those here, you are looking to pay approx 4200 GBP+ when diesel cars from VAG/Skoda reaches those mileage numbers.

 

People more than often chooses to sell the cars for less than 1900GBP on the used cars sales market. Dunno how it is in UK, but that is a fact in Norway due to high repair costs (it all went straight up noticably after corona pandemic and the war in Ucraine)

I see what you are saying now about that for you...That would be very worthwhile doing them points...Luckily we haven't reached them prices in UK for used Skodas so they hold their values for a lot longer and I think The Indy's round my way are very well priced...bar the oil and oil filter changes 🤣🤣🤣🤣

 

Of which I'm thinking of setting up and oil and oil filter change shop close by and do it for £20 less as a part time job whilst I'm off shift 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️🤦🏻‍♂️

11 hours ago, J.R. said:

Removing the combined gearbox and transfer box (78kg in my case) is a peace of pi55 if you think it through before proceeding.

 

You will already have fitted an engine support beam to support the engine and transmission when the mounts are removed, a pair of ratchet straps around that will support and lower the gearbox and transfer box slowly and in complete safety by one person but its easier with two, one watching and directing the other lowering.

 

I was in a pit and lowered the assembly onto a couple of timbers laid across it, if you want to slide it out sideways then you may need to lift one side of the car up higher, there is no need for a transmission jack.

 

Regarding the EGR cooler I opted to fit a £99 emulator/simulator so that it no longer passes gases, this also means I no longer have to periodically clean the throttle valve and intake tract, no blanking plates fitted at present as the EGR is in the closed position, if the heat exchanger does eventually leak water, unlikely now there are no corrosive gases passing, then I will blank off the cooling pipes using the bits from the kit.

 

That flywheel sound expensive, I paid €308 for a 3 way clutch kit with DMF and concentric slave cylinder including delivery from Spain, it was a LUK kit.

I would say €329 (definitely Euros) for a LUK DMF from UK I'd expensive at all...Considering most want four figures for one be that LLLParts/Skoda parts websites/TPS etc...

 

It's a very similar price I'd get from Autodocs and from a parts supplier that I trust and know and not have the potential F. Around factor that really isn't worth being inconvenienced by for an extra €21 (Euros) as my time is worth a lot more than that.

 

Autodocs seems to struggle in my part of UK more often than not hence they're on my concerned/wary to do business with.  However it others get €10/£20 I'll glady pay more to not be messed around.  😃😃😃 I'm not that broke, just yet, but working to it with Scáthach at the moment 😈😈😈

 

I still think that my DPF has been blanked, I can't find an emulator in any of the usual places and I really don't believe the part has last nearly 110k miles from factory either...However I have no way of proving yet, if it was to go wrong I'd go down the most sensible way of blanking off/emulating that I could find and my friend Fish does this for his business, so I'd consult with him if the time came. 😃😃😃

Edited 23 August, 20241 yr by G1980
Page closed before I finished

10 hours ago, J.R. said:

 

I see no reason why a DSG should not be done in the same manner that I did mine, its safe in that you are not under the vehicle like you would under a lift and the gearbox does not have far to fall should things go wrong, better than lowering on a trolley jack because that is very unstable even if strapped on and it lifts the tall transmission a further 100mm + off the floor making it harder to extricate although there may be no need, it can just sit there while the clutch and flywheel are replaced.

 

One esential tool or precaution to take is make sure the cross-member is refitted in precisely the same alignment otherwise the vehicle can crab alarmingly, don't ask me how I know!!!!

I've already been told as soon as the job is done I'm to take it straight away to my usual Hunter 4 wheel alignment place that always do all of my 4x4s and have it checked...And adjust and my Indy will pay them over the phone, as they haven't got the gear to do it!

 

Which I thought was very fair...so I'm already well aware I may be taking a crab for a 20 minute drive once works is complete! 🤣🤣🤣🤣

Edited 23 August, 20241 yr by G1980

5 hours ago, rbhelle said:

Well, if u ask any eastern european from low cost counties, they would argue that special tools are overly overrated and TOTALLY unnessecary, heheh. Eyemeasure and hammers do the trick 😆 Lots of videos on youtube 😉 Anyway, correct distance is up till 0,5mm from seal to plate according to vag specs.

You can only work with what you have and then it's improvise/adapt/overcome which them old EE guys love to attempt...I'm half Polish by birth, however I don't have such a gung ho attitude, if we can do it properly for a reasonable price when I don't always have all the special tools...However rbhelle is completely right, when we move my missus has said she wants a garage upgrade for her minis and if Scáthach still is with me on the road then I will look into more specialist tools to do these jobs, especially as the lift installation will be one of my wife's first garage upgrades request...which is fine for the minis but it will have to be something else for Scáthach to sit on 🤪🤪🤪

10 hours ago, rbhelle said:

2010 ish Octavia diesel 2wd from 1500-2500 gbp depending on rustmarks etc. And for that price more than often clutch and timing is not done. 4wd is more expensive. But I just bought and repaired a 2010 4wd octavia 125 000miles with timingbelt/waterpump, clutch issues. Did full service brake pads, haldex, oil filters, manifold issues, a/c issues and sold it for 4000 gbp. It was bought for 384gbp. Yes you heard it correct 384gbp 😀 It has to be said that the previous owner really wanted to get rid of it to the scrapyard. My expences on that one was 846gbp in parts. It went straight through norwegian MOT test.

I'm pleased you're doing your part to save them!!! 😍😍😍

20 minutes ago, G1980 said:

I would say €329 (definitely Euros) for a LUK DMF from UK I'd expensive at all...Considering most want four figures for one be that LLLParts/Skoda parts websites/TPS etc...

 

It's a very similar price I'd get from Autodocs and from a parts supplier that I trust and know and not have the potential F. Around factor that really isn't worth being inconvenienced by for an extra €21 (Euros) as my time is worth a lot more than that.

 

Autodocs seems to struggle in my part of UK more often than not hence they're on my concerned/wary to do business with.  However it others get €10/£20 I'll glady pay more to not be messed around.  😃😃😃 I'm not that broke, just yet, but working to it with Scáthach at the moment 😈😈😈

 

I still think that my DPF has been blanked, I can't find an emulator in any of the usual places and I really don't believe the part has last nearly 110k miles from factory either...However I have no way of proving yet, if it was to go wrong I'd go down the most sensible way of blanking off/emulating that I could find and my friend Fish does this for his business, so I'd consult with him if the time came. 😃😃😃

Should say *isn't expensive at all!