Front caliper nut rubber covers

[LesCM19]

Having trouble with the 7zap website, not accepting my Vin this time 😒, are these the right ones for FSII calipers?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281216735752?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda|Cars+Type%3A1.2|Plat_Gen%3AMK+I|Cars+Year%3A2007|Model%3AFabia|Variant%3APetrol+Hatch|Engine%3A1198cc+47KW+64HP+AZQ%3BBME|BodyStyle%3AFWD+I+6Y2&hash=item4179d2da08:g:ebgAAOSwqglhl7a~&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAO%2Fh%2BkKaiqBxny%2Fsg4pgsFZfHTX2o%2B%2F2xRmPiHyazjWdBxLCbuTaEp7N2sWMPcbCVLPbRukBkCZDmwJvThkt1FhbvCDI6OrdXIW9CKTB3hxlMkZk80H4EY%2Bc6fr7%2FZvQ3IJdWGYykbfZFhj2lrdoxddp126n2YMSaNdWwNEoamFXW%2FCwVa8zo6BGQDAzg3jItPECX8agT3O93p6mvLBmQSVgMUMgGI2KyC9yw%2Bg1sXa6BW0eOp%2BIqIAQHTb2cN4uxSrM5inCx5HXsy1NZgwJtE7d9DQdheJOOqtM8pgB7UzKQYmZxIF05Y6TqP7Qmh0Fd1n%2BELL9lzpTEV9AQKfWYJM%3D|tkp%3ABFBMrtKVrLJj

Ideally if someone can give me the part number that would be awesome.

 

And is there a trick to getting them off without ripping? They go down the bolt shaft a way?

Edited 10 February by LesCM19

[Breezy_Pete]

FS II calipers don't have caps over the ends of the slide pin tubes.

[Breezy_Pete]

LLL is handy for catalogue info, to look up the correct part numbers of any mk1 bits

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/

[Breezy_Pete]

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/453/6/615/615015

 

[LesCM19]

5 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

FS II calipers don't have caps over the ends of the slide pin tubes.

Well, precisely. Haynes manual says remove protective rubber things, they're like a sleeve over the bolt head that goes right inside, hence my difficulty in getting them off. Sleeve over bolt head means can't get a socket on 🤔

 

2nd photo shows one partly out bit it ripped in the process 😎

[Breezy_Pete]

It's a 6mm female socket in the end of the guide pin bolts you need 6mm Allen key to undo.

Rubber stays where it is.

Look at Google images of the bolt part numbers (different lengths, upper and lower).

 

Edited 10 February by Breezy_Pete
Correction

[Breezy_Pete]

Haynes isn't helping you here! 

[Breezy_Pete]

Make sure your hex bit/Allen key engages full depth before applying force to minimise risk of rounding them out.

[LesCM19]

8 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Make sure your hex bit/Allen key engages full depth before applying force to minimise risk of rounding them out

Had look with a mirror beforehand and true enough, it's not an Allen key hex head it's a normal bolt 🙄 which is what was puzzling me. 

Edited 10 February by LesCM19

[Breezy_Pete]

Oh, previous bodger.

[LesCM19]

7 minutes ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Oh, previous bodger.

Bottom bolt is 12mm head. Oh well, it's off now 🤣

[Breezy_Pete]

Did well. 

[xman]

Sure did well to get those out.

 

(Removed rest of post as not relevant for FSII caliper being discussed here)

Edited 10 February by xman

[LesCM19]

5 hours ago, xman said:

Sure did well to get those out. What an idiotic thing the previous bodger did! The short bolt may not even had more than a turn or two of engagement, the long one looks too long. The sliding surface are wider so the caliper was not properly  secure and could flop around  on the bracket under braking. Or were there seperate metal sleeves?

Didn't have any problems getting the "custom" bolts out but had to trim the rubber sleeve off the offside too.

 

This was the top bolt on the offside as I found it. Obviously too much effort was required to nip it up.

 

I suppose he might have been a bit wary of it contacting the pad, it does come right through the caliper if done up 'properly'.

 

By the way, does that inner pad look right to you guys? There's about 5mm clearance between both 'ears' and caliper body, top & bottom. It's the same on the nearside and the outer pad in the photo wouldn't fit in the inner position anyway. 

 

...and then when I refitted the nearside I noticed he'd helpfully added his own plastic sleeving to the top bolt bush. Literally carved from a Fairy liquid bottle or something.

 

Brakes are actually great as always.

Knocking noise I wanted to investigate while replacing discs (I suspected a rattling caliper after reading this post, especially as it seemed to stop under braking) seems to be worse, more like a duff shock now. Maybe shock is under different forces as I'v done the droplink on that side, too.

 

But will invest in a caliper bolt/bush kit first obviously 

Edited 10 February by LesCM19

[Breezy_Pete]

5 hours ago, xman said:

IIRC every front caliper (all FSIII) I've removed on Fabia I and II cars needed a 7mm allen tool. Might be different for FSII calipers.

For FSIII calipers that's true.

But...

It is an M8 allen head bolt (6mm key reqd) through parallel stainless tubes on FSII. Tubes and bolts (and rubber sleeves) different lengths between upper and lower positions. 

 

Edited 10 February by Breezy_Pete

[xman]

You might already know, but if you don't that your brake pads (as many others) have an inner pad and an outer pad that is different.
 

Edited to remove misleading info. See following posts for updated info

Edited 10 February by xman

[Breezy_Pete]

@LesCM19 difficult to see what's going on from your pictures, but if I were doing the job I'd make sure to get some correct bits on there and remove a whole lot of rust before fitting any new bits. Especially where pad ears touch stuff.

[xman]

Lllparts confirms the elongated pad goes on the outside.

 

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/FAB/225/6/615/615015

Edited 10 February by xman

[Breezy_Pete]

FSII pads are very different in shape between inner and outer, part numbers from LLL diagram/table.

[LesCM19]

3 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

@LesCM19 difficult to see what's going on from your pictures, but if I were doing the job I'd make sure to get some correct bits on there and remove a whole lot of rust before fitting any new bits. Especially where pad ears touch stuff.

Will do.

 

Just to reiterate about the gap with the pads, in that picture of the top of the nearside brake unit, the top ear of the outer pad on the left in the pic is snugly sandwiched between hub & caliper whereas the inner pad is only touching the hub. Just seems odd how it's not touching the caliper too.

Seems to work ok.

Edited 10 February by LesCM19

[Breezy_Pete]

I will be doing a pre-MOT inspection on ours tomorrow,  will take a few pics for comparison.  

[Breezy_Pete]

I can confirm that the gap labelled here on the inner pads is normal, having checked ours today.   

[Breezy_Pete]

Handy that I did get round to checking before MOT; an inner pad on left side and outer pad on right were both 'vanishingly thin'. 

[LesCM19]

2 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

I can confirm that the gap labelled here on the inner pads is normal, having checked ours today.   

Brilliant news, at least I know I've got the correct pads.

[LesCM19]

Well, after popping a new drop link on the n/s and putting the calipers temporarily back together with the old "bolts" I wasn't surprised during a test drive when a new metal on metal knocking developed after a mile or so, more noticeable at slower speeds and hardly at all when cornering. A bit like when the exhaust was contacting the subframe but more tinny and not through the floor, more like top of the wing from inside. "That'll be the rubber sleeve I damaged letting the metal bush touch the caliper" or so I thought, with the noise coming up through the strut however it's still there after fitting the new pin kit.

Sounds like a floppy shock and there does seem to be more movement in the spring on that side when I grope around with the car being bounced but could it be the drop link? Not being able to get my bloody great torque wrench in there I just did it up as tight as I could. And can a ropy shock fail just coz the car's been jacked up and the suspensions been dropped down a bit?