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ECU removal


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2 hours ago, TonyNew said:

@Crasher the RAC bloke said most of his calls are down to faulty ECU's said its a common issue for them to packup all the time???

 

He is a muppet, I can quite believe that he tells that to everybody whose car he cannot get going or diagnose the fault, I can believe that he even believes it his-self but how would he ever know how the problems were eventually resolved?

 

I can not know either but I would bet every centime that I have to my name that he is talking sh1te.

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I think they only use a dolly for short trips?? But I think I'm gonna go for the new battery 

could be a quick fix if not should be able to take it back. 

If it doesn't start get it neutral get get it recovered back home then I know an auto technician and take it from there

Thanks for all your help everyone I now have a plan thanks to your comments.

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Out of interest why is it bad to tow a DSG in Neutral ?  I'd of thought that in neutral neither of the dual clutch input shafts would be turning, so I'm interested why it would matter ?

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On 12/04/2024 at 16:42, TonyNew said:

@Crasher what battery do you recommend - I have search on google but a range of batteries are coming up for my reg from 50amps to 70 amps I assume the 70 is best

ALL modern batteries are ****, Varta has gone to the dogs as has Bosch, I have no idea what to recommend, as for the size, I need the VIN.

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2 minutes ago, Crasher said:

ALL modern batteries are ****

Are there any you would suggest as perhaps "least worst"?

 

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Halfords battery, 4 year warranty, can't argue with that and "if" they do fail which is very rare, they swap them no questions asked.

 

Halfords also supply Yuasa, those have a 5 year warranty.

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So I got a Yuasa 3000 which is 71ah 680A EN 3 years warranty from GFS Parts in East Grinstead £87.00 (10%off) this was the nearest battery I could get yesterday that matched the spec of the battery I have which is a Varta 70ah 680A EN.

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So I went to the car - I wish I had tried to start it before I did anything but I didn't.

 

So tried to get the car out of Park as per the instructions in the owners book

image.png.5c4fdec34b57872701b652960ff3b23d.png

but I couldn't find this yellow plastic part?? all I could see was a light blue button at the top of the gearbox housing which I managed to push down (went forward) but couldn't get it out of park but I did feel the shifter move slightly.

AP1GczOVafBQpj5rYB6c_aWYOA4vxWgdPuz9JRfxDCE3Dcwbilj6m_VRHT3_NVEqKU5AYUz1FAK2i2X4WTk7jATP8d_oXE453r22_Ef0GMyLh_mAYlriTPAeK1AuFY-4Gu1-VaJmtDpImFaWXZmZcq-P7TPAFHSdcF0x7_x8ewrfa4_pPxvTtxHMHPTDRq5Hl2r93B8jV9i0-Yx-HJFdZJh64UHaL5VqQiRb4-6SA4TJD138mw42EuOLeqE6egybc0zlJ9mSlQNOJzrgU398UnsLeIlW6cjN52dOKpa0nDywPxB3H_Iik-VWpm_z4SohtfuAH5j6niM4E6EueAmPXtcEtN0n2jNhPWczeDMvKogffQOpvkXK889iSlkS_OBVeBdD_Oxuia5Rxffwe0Himexka6r0xuKmES0w6sr2k9clucPU4j1BnVDU4a5Rr28C8wZ7_9yvPENaxeO5KgbCC6dridam8icw2I2H2RiEknoxlZEh35AF3eRFkGXCXpNE_sGrFf0BohZJWUYx5B6sxKfHQ3CVeKXiphadM9RptLKdoH_n5WMqWvVshSdRDHNBr9IVKm1akoEiO58EvFNb1lDwZKzfTCcHtIbGE7DnIypQH_8Gm3SfmYjRbyZAMVXnznmBxO-BPKmHibEjRY8LgsqNatXW5KCUT8AsZhaCJgv1hik15yjU_-vsVX7K-3_BlASN47BPWkFvC5tg_NYJ0NpK26lmT7A7mIx4R31QbZvBNJX-S3XghlPj_PDNJD0KvkVofkCZrSAIeqtvpl6iTHoggxkgxQaKx-7sQAbM8-tarYaT8vQ6aY6LLVzUPkGmm13c6NMRdK-GeVtfN2lgd8mjqPk7Esf_aJj7a8PFfnN4G21NKcvDY4LOK8X2t2H2BRzMPVijyeBvgNC7oQnv9xwpqCkU7yUih1LR7hCW_NHQvZzs6PhgT9-PMWS_gaUl=w754-h769-s-no-gm?authuser=0

 

So I then though perhaps the ignition should be on as well? So turned the ignition on didn't get the fault EPS up as I was on Friday when switching on the ignition. 

So I tried and it started on the button no lights or faults reported on the dash drove home fine no issues. I wander if it could be an issue with the shifter, so when I stopped and put it in park it didn't hit park properly and still thought it was in gear??  If anyone has any thoughts on this.

 

Scanned it with VCDS when I got back loads of codes on first scan cleared them and just I the one fault which I have had since owning the car i have uploaded if you want to take a look.

Log-LL10XYB-TMBFP65J8B3050768-1st scan.txt Log-LL10XYB-TMBFP65J8B3050768-2nd scan after clearing codes.txt

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The Yuasa 3000 is OK, the 5000 and 9000 are absolutely dire, the 5000 is THE most unreliable battery we have ever fitted, every single one we sold failed. @TonyNew the genuine number for yours is 000 915 105 DE and using TecDoc this cross references to a Yuasa YBX 3027 therefore using the old British Battery Manufactures Association system it is a 027

 

 

87c54196677e1d2c645a457ef9ca9eeab4f12848

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Well luckily didn't have to use the battery so we return it during the week. But will bear in mind when I need to replace it cheers. 

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