Hi, I have a very perculier problem with the front passenger side window,this is how it works at the moment. I take the door card off then unplug the window motor plug from the right angle socket,them plug it back in,the window works fine. Then put the door card back on,them after about five minutes the window won’t move at all,so I unplug it again,plug it back in,it works for a short time,then after the short time,it won’t work again. I’ve taken the door card off so many times now I could probably do it blindfolded 

can any one help me,it’s driving me absolutely mad!!!!!

You may well find that it has lost comms with the master unit on the drivers side door. There's a 1-wire data link between the two motor modules (and nothing else) that is vulnerable to wire breakage at either A-pillar connector.

It's a grey/white wire from pin 3 of each 8-way connector at the motors, via pin 5 at the 28-way A-pillar connections.

 

Hi,Breezy Pete, thank you very much for that information,does that mean I have to replace that particular wire? Just out of interest the drivers side switch for passenger window does not work at all.

Can you just confirm which motor type you have, 6Y....part number, or 6Q...?

The right angle connector mentioned above suggests the latter, I think, in which case my reference to 8-way connectors at the motors is wrong.

 

The code on the motor is 6q1.959.802.E  the only possible thing is ,I think someone has put a second hand motor on at some point as it has orange Dotson it. Thanks

Same applies with the grey/white wire, just comes from the 16-way connector at each motor.

Look in the boots at the A-pillars for broken wires, both sides.

Does that mean the wire from the drivers side to the passenger side has a break  somewhere, how does that relate to the 5-10 mins that you can use it? Then after a short time- nothing, till you replug it out then in again,I’m lost with this one. Thanks Paul.

Yes, that's what I'm trying to guide you towards looking for. Just look for such a break,  you won't find it online.

 

If the passenger side unit doesn't get communication within those 10 mins from being powered up, it shuts down again.

If it does get chatting to the driver's side one, it stays awake for as long as the driver's side one is awake. Which is whenever ignition is on (and for 10 mins after it is turned off, or until a door is opened, whichever comes first).

 

Thank you for that,I will start looking today it may take some time. I will of course let you know if I find it,until then ,Thank you for taking your time to explain it. Paul.

Can someone please assist, the passenger window stopped working, I replaced to motor, exact part, the window now opens and closes using drivers button on door, opens with key but fitted new button on passenger door and it does not operate, could this be a fault in wiring between door and body, any help would be appreciated please, Skoda roomster 2 1.9d on a 2008 (57 plate) thank you 

@Stevediggo does the switch on the passenger door light up (backlighting) when vehicle lights are switched on?

Is it a 6Y... or 6Q... part number motor? 

Edited 8 June, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete

Hi thank you for replying the backlight on the switch does light up yes and the part is 6Q.959.802.E, it is totally baffling me 

In that case it's most likely to be corrosion in the 16-way connector, specifically of the wire/contact coming from the passenger window switch. 

Unplug and look carefully for green residue on any contacts of the loom plug.

Ok thanks will look but all looked clean, I have noticed that the motor has different Nos the new part I have put in says HW001 SW0164, the old one that has been replaced says HW001 SW0140 would this matter, it’s real baffling as the windows work well from the drivers double switch and turning key in door lets them up and down without any problems, thanks very much for taking time to post for me 

Let's just rewind a bit. 

What was happening before the motor swap, no passenger side window action from any input?

The hardware/software numbers won't matter, I believe. 

Do you still have the original passenger side switch?

 

Whereabouts are you?

So, the passenger window stopped working, so I bought a new switch, broke the original switch getting it out of the housing but still never worked, when I pressed the button I could hear a click but no motor, I replaced the motor as stated and the passenger window opened from the drivers double switch, when the key is turned in drivers door it goes up and down no problem, even bought another switch and still nothing not even a click, there does not appear to be any corrosion on pins so I’m guessing that there is obviously a break somewhere but apart from the wiring in the door gap/pillar I have no idea, totally dumbfounded 

Next time I'm inside at the 'big internet' I'll dig out a circuit diagram of the passenger side motor/switch wiring for you.

 

If you have a multimeter we should soon be able to find the problem.

Thank you, that’s what I am planning to do, spent too long on it today so as they say, tomorrow is another day.

really appreciate your input 

 

thanks 

Two crucial wires and connections for passenger switch (E107) function are the brown earth from pin 1 of switchpack, and the black/green signal wire from pin 4.

The fact that the  backlight (L53) works suggests earth is intact, as it's shared.

 

Edited 8 June, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete

Thank you for this

So, done a multimeter test, all electric connections worked fine, undid the main multi plug from the door pillar, nothing broken, plugged it back in and low and behold the windows started to work again, all sorted now, just a quick question should I be able to activate the windows from the key fob ? it all works with key in the door etc, just a thought, no issues if you are too busy to explain as you have helped enough.

 

best regards

 

Just now, Stevediggo said:

So, done a multimeter test, all electric connections worked fine, undid the main multi plug from the door pillar, nothing broken, plugged it back in and low and behold the windows started to work again, all sorted now, just a quick question should I be able to activate the windows from the key fob ? it all works with key in the door etc, just a thought, no issues if you are too busy to explain as you have helped enough.

 

best regards

 

Listen to them who know, better results will follow

No, you shouldn't be able to operate from keyfob.

On these LIN-based variants of motor modules there is no data connection to anything central, so only local action at one or other door can provide inputs to the windows.

 

 

Thank you again 

 

Steve 

I had an issue with the windows not working on my Roomster. At first, it seemed weather-dependent. After a long dry period or leaving the engine running with the heating at full blast for an hour, the problem disappeared briefly.  The controller boards of the window motors showed no traces of moisture or corrosion. 

The diagnosis of the local Skoda garage showed that I needed a new driver-side window motor. Due to the car's age (2006), it is only available for extortionate prices if at all. Paying 400 Euro for a component in a car that costed me 3500 Euro seemed a bit exaggerated. The motor itself is fine when using an external power supply. Also, the forums gave the impression that the repair could be unstable.  I got the impression, that if there is an issue with the LIN bus, the whole window system stops working. I could not find any usable information on debugging the Skoda LIN bus. 

I decided to make a new controller. First I ordered ElseWin to get the electric schematics. 

It turns out that each window switch is connected to a variable resistor: push: 170 ohm, hard push: 0 ohm, pull: 1800 ohm, hard pull: 540 ohm to ground. This way, 1 wire is sufficient. 

The original controller has a double relay, one section for up and one section for down.  I made a small additional controller that operates the relays directly, depending on the switch's resistance.  The original PCB traces from the controller to the relay and the switch input were cut and the new circuit was connected. Diode D1 ensures that the up and down relays are not operated at the same time. This logic also required the use of 2 electronic relays instead of 2 transistors to drive the original relays. 

The windows work again, with some limitations: you can only operate the window with the switch in the door itself, the auto open/close does not work, and there is no force limiting anymore (we don't have children, so I accept the risk).