Hi all

 

Could someone point me in the direction of torque settings for Skoda Superb MkIII please? I need to change the front shocks.

 

Will I need to buy a couple of wrenches? Halfords do 2 that covers 12-60 and 60-300nM. Don't want to buy both unless I need to.

 

TIA

Hi there,

 

There many different torque settings on this car. Front shocks are tough job and I suggest you to download the workshop manual and follow it - it also contains the exact torque settings and the required tools.

 

You can download it from https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do which costs like 8 euro for 1 hour. That's enough time to download whatever you need for the job.

 

Good luck!

Thanks!

 

I watched a YouTube video here 

What do you think the toughest part of the job is please? 

 

Doing both sides too 😬😬😬

 

 

I haven't changed the front shocks myself, but I would definetely think of it once the warranty expires  The stock suspension is very bouncy(I don't have DCC).

 

Do you have a spring press?

 

Make sure you have all the tools before dissembling mate

 

What are you going to put? Bilstein B6 or some regular brand/model due to leak?

Edited 17 May, 20242 yr by fr1nklyn

Yeah warranty long expired on my 2017 L&K . It has DCC.

 

I just went with the Monroe like for like replacement.

 

I just need the torque wrenches, I have ball joint splitter, window wiper lifter, shock strut splitter, spring compressor. I think that's the lot from the video at least.

 

I'll take my time but not too long as I don't have a spare car and I need it for work, so maybe start it over the may bank holiday and take some extra time off just in case I run into issues.

 

Plus I will have a good read from the service guide you sent the link for.

 

Thanks!

 

 

Sure, no worries at all! Take someone with you for help and maybe print the guide on a paper.

 

Definitely do some pictures if possible and tell us how it went  

 

It looks like a whole day job for me, as someone who hasn't done it before.

23 hours ago, Arseneknows said:

What do you think the toughest part of the job is please? 

 

Certainly not torque wrench settings, there seems to be an irrational fixation with torque settings these days together with changing wheels and tyres for winter.

 

The 2nd hardest part of the jib is getting the strut out of the steering knuckle, the hardest is getting it back in, it helps if you disconnect the driveshaft and that brings problems of its own and also the need for a 'kin big torque wrench.

 

I suggest that you buy a steering knuckle spreader tool and a socket drive extended allen key for preventing the piston rod from rotating when undoing the strut nut, if not then special 3 lobed Vise Grips for round objects.

 

Buy some foam bump stops as yours are probably decomposed.

Do you have a description or part number for the Allen key? I have the spreader tool to get the shock out of the strut ( unless you mean something else)?

 

I got this list from my local dealer but sourced the parts from elsewhere for obvious reasons. Actually not everything, I got top strut mount with bearing, springs, shocks,  dust covers, and stabilising bars, think about £600 so far , plus about £200 worth of new tools.

 

I assume the buffer is the foam stop you mentioned 

pages 2,3,5, and particularly half way down page 6 - removing the front suspension- and near start of page7 in this extensive thread will give some idea of the issues you may have- (although some of these issues on this car appeared to be caused due to corrosion)

Yeah, mine definitely had worse case scenarios!

As long as you have a decent strut spreader tool (sounds like you do!), I reckon it's par for the course for MacPherson struts. Ditto an appropriately sized ball joint tool, mine was a tiny bit too small, so ended up attacking it with a hammer, if you're going down the route of separating the ball joint from the hub/knuckle

 

The internet has lots of hacks such as using a bottle jack and bits of solid wood to compress the strut in order to not need to separate the hub/knuckle from the driveshaft and ball joint, which would save time and a bit on replacement bolts, but I didn't really have either on hand at the time. These were always done on shiny clean cars though.

2 hours ago, Arseneknows said:

Do you have a description or part number for the Allen key?

 

Look at the top of your suspension struts at the nut you have to undo and the threaded piston shaft with female hexagon recess that you will have to prevent from turning to do so and you will work out one of three things.

 

1 - What special tool will make the job possible.

 

2 - You dont need a special tool, you know exactly how you will do it bodging with the basic tools you already have.

 

3 - If 1 and 2 don't help then the job is possibly beyond your capability.

 

I presume you have already got or bought spring compressors?

 

Dealer prices were always stupid but your £600 made me fall of my chair, I did mine 2 years ago, new struts were £30, maybe £34 each from an Ebay seller in Ireland, pair of new  top bearings and mounts IIRC £20 from a private Ebay seller who didn't use them, springs I have only ever paid around £17 each from Lesjofors, the foam bump stops were less than €2 from Autodoc.

 

I can see how things have changed now, I was looking at rear brake discs last night, mine I replaced 4 years ago and the inner face of one is scored prematurely after 55K miles, I noticed last night while changing the prematurely worn pads, now I know why!

 

I paid around €15 per disc last time, most are 3 or 4 times that price now and I had to look really really hard to get down to €25 each.

Monroe DCC Shocks were £130 each from GSF, (£260 total)

 

Springs, top mount, bearings, dust covers, came to about £330 from Eurocar parts.

 

I couldn't see how I could do it much cheaper tbh, I think it must be inflation since you did yours last.

 

 

I forgot to mention the stabilising rods that were recommended to change , that was part of the Eurocar part bill