Shuggyboatsuperb

Ive never understood why testing the water content in the fluid reservoir gives any indication of moisture levels in fluid thats in the important part that gets hot i.e. the calipers ??? Im sure fluid may test ok in the reservoir but the portion thats often first bled out from calipers can be dark , with suspended corrosion microparticles and absorbed moisture. If in any doubt at all- far better just to bleed the fluid-( and extract most of the old fluid thats in the reservoir with a big syringe and replace with fresh at the start of bleeding operation so you dont have to push a few hundred ml old fluid through the pipes first before the new)

i wonder if audi dealers charge even more for service work etc They do: About 6 years ago a workmate bought a nearly new A4 from Audi, after paying a fortune for a service a year later he also got an estimate/ forecast of the following years work required - among it was brake fluid change for something like £370 ! ! Just for the brake fluid change. Total estimate for routine stuff was well over 1k

Nice earner🏴‍☠️ And probably even quicker and easier access to the air filter! (Although you need a highly complex tool in your Skoda specialist workshop to do the air filter LOL, - a splined bit)

Hope it goes well, up to your tactics with the dealer now 🙈

Well I must say I had an open mind - until yr 4 service recently at dealers. Knowing myself that I will be doing my own routine servicing from year 5 once out of warranty, aware of the Skoda UK change to cambelt schedule (ie no need to change every 5 years irrespective of mileage) and also aware that my Superb is used almost excusively for long steady runs ( mostly 160 miles at a time) only about 8k miles a year - I asked the service desk purely out of interest as an option in future what they currently charge for a cambelt/ water pump change on a diesel - The answer was “995 pounds and we still recommend getting it done every 5 years “ - Really ? ?

Agree with Danoid’s experience: Mine will only reset at standstill. Message something like “ function not currently available” if I try to reset while moving.

Apparently ( from another recent- ish post) the battery and electronics system has its own separate coolant system which uses a different coolant to the petrol engine, and its meant to be sealed - at least to keep owners out. EV Trained techs only - as Rooted already said

Like this:

On mine, theres a small ( vertical) gap / where the drivers side windsceen cowling ends towards the wing- near the bonnet hinge, just enough gap to squeeze an extension cable into when the bonnet is open. Then when shut this cable runs back wards under the rear edge of the bonnet a few inches before curving over the rear lip of the bonnet and down to the front tyre.

That voltage is still on the low side at the battery ( see pic) - on its way out. Should ideally be looking for >=12.5 at the battery half an hour to an hour after taking the charger off. Far better replace before too long, suggest Tayna batteries either EFB or AGM- personally I would buy Yuasa. https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/yuasa/ybx7096/ https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/yuasa/ybx9096/

Ah, in that case youve probably woken the local grizzly bear out of hibernation and its a bit angry.

Rear washer jet- from new mine also just drippled / small stream and wiper creaked. Dealer said “ normal” / did nothing at first service! Stupidly bought a new Skoda rear wiper for £25 ish but still squeaky and needing 5-10 seconds wash to try to wet the glass adequately. Second service, not knowing I had already bought from their parts desk and replaced it) recommended a new rear wiper blade- which I somehow managed to politely decline and explain it already had a replacement. So after then driving a different VW group hire car with a good stream out of the rear washer, made me realise mine was definitely faulty, I took a little mini drill bit ( those things you spin and drive by hand like a little pen) and “ cleaned out / opened up” the washer jet. Works perfectly now, one pull of the lever and it gives a nice stream that floods across the blade before it wipes. Think it was probably about 0.8-1 mm. suspect either the nozzle was designed badly or part blocked by plastic moulding swarf since new. Oh, and a cheap e Bay rear wiper for about £6 totally fixed the creak.

Agree on tyres- just put my Michelin primacy front tyres back on after taking nokian winter tyres off and the regular long weekend run was so much quieter especially on the rougher chipped tarmac surfaces. Not just less tyre noise but smoother. No experience of “your” Conti 6 eco tyres though.

Fair run back from SW Scotland to NE England, mostly cruising at the legal A road limits - some spells a bit lower following traffic and for villages/ City bypasses but also some short full throttle overtaking bursts. Screen shot after two and a bit hours in : confirming the potential full tank range of over 1000 miles :2litre diesel, 150 DSRA evo motor.

Probably priming you to be ready to spend some money with them next year or year after. I would be tempted to go elsewhere ( not main dealer) next MOT and I would say odds on it wouldnt even get mentioned?