Hello, 

 

I have a Skoda fabia mk2 1.2 HTP 2009 petrol car. 

 

I have a little problem with my electric windows when i unlock the car.

 

I have the manual keys since owning the car, no buttons on the keys to open the car.

 

When i insert the key in the lock in the door and unlock the car, both passenger and drivers windows go down.

I do know that the windows are suppost to go down if you hold the key in unlock position for several seconds, although as you can see in the video, i unlock the car rapidly and the windows still go down. 

This does not happen on the passenger side. 

 

Here is what I have done so far :

-Replaced the drivers side door lock

-Repaired 5 wires in the door loom (drivers & passenger side)

-Used contact cleaner on both door loom contacts

- Removed and cleaned the key cylinder with contact cleaner

 

Originally the central locking did not work on the drivers side, since replacing the lock it now works, but i still have the problem with the windows.

 

Any advice is appreciated !

 

Cheers,

 

Matthew

Do they go back up again when you lock it? (with no sustained holding of the turned key).

They don't, they only go up again if I hold the key in locked position. 

When i unlock the car on the passengers side, the windows do not go down, strange

Hi I’m knew to Skoda life love my new Skoda roomster 2015 tsi petrol but had a shock road tax 180! I exchanged with fiesta 1.4 diesel 2011 and only 20 a year tax 😒

Examine the connector that goes onto the driver's side window motor, looking for corrosion of (any of) the contact surfaces. 

 

The lock and unlock signals from the key being turned (and held turned) go via the window motor module.

 

Unlocking is signalled by a microswitch in the lock connecting the yellow/blue wire at pin 3 of the window motor connector to 0V via a 180 Ohm resistor.

Locking connects the same wire directly to 0V, via another microswitch. 

 

I suspect that a poor/corroded connection may be affecting the window motor's 'view' of these actions. 

Thats interesting to know, first thing I will do tomorrow morning. 

Thanks a lot !

OK so I removed the window motor plug and there was a bit of green rust on a couple of the contacts. I cleaned that upwith contact cleaner. I put it back together with a big smile thinking the problem had been solved. 

 

Unfortunatley nothing changed. 

I then decided to take apart the new and old lock, and take the microswitch out of the new lock and put it in the old one. 

 

As i didn't have the window problem with the old lock, just central locking not working. 

 

So i reinstalled the old lock, now the door would not lock at all. I put the microswitch back in the new lock and put it back in the door.

 

Now the door dosent lock at all, and i still have the window problem 😂

 

I think i'm going to go to a garage to get a diagnostics done ! 

Oh dear, the lock work may have been a mistake. I don't think the door open microswitch is relevant.

 

I think you have probably found the reason for the window problem. If there is green copper corrosion evident on those contacts, there will also be on the mating part on the circuit board, and probably also corrosion of the circuit board itself, under the connector.

I will try to find an example photo of this.

 

Yes i guess it was a mistake ! I thought it was worth a go. 

 

Do you think the problem could be the window motor that has corroded the circuit board ? 

 

Here's an example with moderate corrosion of the circuit board (the blackened areas amongst the connector pin holes); I've seen much worse. 

Not really sure why moisture gets in, but it does seem to.

 

Edited 19 May, 20242 yr by Breezy_Pete

Thanks for the photo. I guess its likely the same with mine. 

I'll source a replacement motor altogether. I could take the circuit board out and have a look but i don't really want to make things worse.

Edited 19 May, 20242 yr by Matt44

A good idea I think.

Note that there will be items on ebay etc from other brands and models, with the same main VW-group part number (6Q2959802H ?). 

 

For full correct functionality in your car, it will be best to obtain one that also matches the part number line that begins SK250.. exactly. 

Anything that begins VW240..., or VW750... will probably make the window move in opposite direction to your switch commands.

 

 

Thanks for the tips, i'll keep you updated as soon as i get the parts

Hello again !

Sorry for the late reply, I had trouble getting my hands on the right motor.

I ended up ordering the wrong one !

I finally got the motor today, the windows still go down when I unlock the car, gutted ! 

 

Its not the motor then, could it be a weak earth ? 

 

thanks for any advice

An idea would be to turn off the convenience opening of the windows. Trying to figure out how to do it in a mk2 fabia.

 

There is no way to do that, unfortunately.  It's controlled locally by the motor modules, no central connection or involvement. 

Key tuned signal goes to module, module talks to its opposite number on the other door as required. 

Window motors are invisible to diagnostics and CAN systems.

Up until March 2010 anyway.

 

So, for reasons unknown,  the 'key turned to unlock position' info is getting corrupted on its way to window motor.

Bad earth is a possibility,  for sure.

 

Thanks for the imput, i'll check the earths today, i suppose they are the brown wires.

If its not that i'll try check all the wires that go through the A pillar just in case I missed a damadged one

Couple of annotated screenshots that show relevant circuit info.

J386 is driver's window motor module. F220 is driver's door lock module. J393 is central convenience control unit.

Orange boxes are lock/key position related stuff, brown boxes earths, green arrow is the microswitch that closes when key is turned to unlock, and earths that yellow/blue wire via the resistor shown above and to the right of it. I believe that's 180 Ohms.

Circles with 205 inside are a splice/join of multiple wires in the door loom. Circle with 372 similarly a splice/connection in the cabin loom.

T28a is the connector at A-pillar.

The key position signal goes from lock connector pin 4, into window motor pin 3, then comes out again (not a direct connection between the two pins) on pin 10, heading for the central convenience control unit where it does central locking functions.

 

I've known problems on these motor types be solved by hard-linking the thin brown wire going into pin 7 at the window motor to the thick brown one on pin 8. No harm in trying this I don't think, it's linked in copper on the circuit board anyway, just a few metal to metal contact connections between which may be corroded or loose.

 

Ok so now its stopped raining i've tested all the earths they are ok, atleast i get a reading on the multimeter. 

 

I unplugged the wire that comes from pin 10 of the window motor plus that goes to the central convenience unit. Same as before, everything works but the windows still go down when i unlock the car, weird

5 minutes ago, Matt44 said:

I unplugged the wire that comes from pin 10 of the window motor plus that goes to the central convenience unit

The only thing I'd expect that to do is to stop the central locking from opening the other doors when driver's door is opened with key.

 

Where's that red connector from in first pic?

My bad, it wasn't the same blue and black wire going into that red plug. 

The red plug came out of the central convenience unit under the fuse box. 

I've put it back together now. 

I did try to hard link the earth on pin 7 of the window motor plug to the bigger earth on pin 8. That didn't do the trick. 

 

I didn't put the earth on pin 7 back in to the plug, and everything worked as before , strange ?

Edited 19 June, 20241 yr by Matt44

7 minutes ago, Matt44 said:

central convenience unit under the fuse box

Wrong unit. The one that does locking stuff is above clutch pedal on RHD cars, above accelerator pedal on LHD.

Not worth trying to access, as it has nothing to do with windows in this case.

Windows are only controlled by driver's and passenger window motor modules, and the inputs they get from lock modules and switches.

 

There may be redundancy in the earth connections, so that observation may not be a problem. 

 

I would try to measure from pin 3 - yellow/blue wire - of WM connector to (known good) chassis/earth while key is in various positions in the lock. What I'd expect to see is that when key isn't in lock, or is in central/neutral position, that pin will not be connected to earth at all. 

When key is in lock position (for as long as it's held there) that wire should have direct connection to earth, zero Ohms.

When key is in unlock position, it should have 180 Ohms to earth. But only while key is held there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Looks like i've found the problem by accident, when i unlock the car with key in the barrel, and turn the key all the way back, the windows don't go down. 

 

Its only when i unlock the car and let go of the key, letting it turn all the way back up to vertical position that the windows go down. 

I've just taken the barrel out, going to see if i can tighten it some how. 

 

I guess that the barrel has lots of wear on it and has come slightly loose. 

I would of never of thought that it was that tiny movement in the barrel that set of the windows

Edited 19 June, 20241 yr by Matt44