Overview:

 

High everyone. A rather lengthy post I’m afraid with many questions so, with that in mind, to make it readable, I’m going to use sub headings with separate paragraphs.

 

Overview:

Bought this car brand new Nov 2017, I had 2 faults within the first year, one the breakdown guy changed a part (J883 exhaust flap control module) the other was the rear brake wasn’t auto releasing intermittently. - now not a problem

Just out of warranty the coolant pump failed (well the thermostatic valve part of it) and had this, and the timing belt, changed at the same time, in Dec. 2019 (67K)

In 2020 I got the engine warning light come on amber – to cut a long story short, this was the heater plug control module which I replaced myself after buying a hook up cable and free diagnostic software (with very minimal options). Retired July 2020 so now don’t do a third of the miles I used to.

 

Recent fault: Rear door

My rear door has started to act up. At first, it just wouldn’t lock fully and so I had to manually give it a push to lock. As time progressed it got worse and, now, no matter if I use the boot open button, the console button or the key fob button it only opens like 1/5th and a second press gets it open another 1/5th but it’s not always the same. I watched a youtube video where the guy had the full working software and could identify open circuit switches in one of the strut motors. Since I was working blind (my software didn’t show any fault with regards to the boot), I acted on his actions guessing it may be a common fault and checked the wiring to each strut. I even removed both struts too and gave them a squirt of WD40 in case water had got in. refitting them made no difference whatsoever.

 

Servicing

 

2018: (20K)

They said, with regards to the handbrake sticking, a software update should sort that out. - it didn’t really and I wondered if it might have been cold weather related? Warranty repair on front side lights, headlights & LED control units

 

Mar. 2019 (39.5K)

rear pads 50% amber

 

Sept 2019 (60K)

rear wiper blade

 

May 2021(79K)

wing mirror replaced

brake fluid replaced

rear brakes and discs

 

Mar 2023(94K)

replace front discs n pads

 

June 2024 (106K)**

Rear brakes 75% worn

rear tyres tread low

Rear dampers slight leak – amber – check in 6mths

rear tailgate internal failure of boot latch.

Fault stored for electrical coolant pump V488 (rear pump Pierburg)

And the usual recommended brake fluid and air con. Refrigerant change.

 

Phew! Sorry for the long post … now comes the related questions:

 

Lets start with:

 

Rear brakes:

 

As already said early on in my ownership I had the rear brakes not releasing and it lasted intermittently for a while but gradually got better over, what felt like, a long time. On 79K I had the rear brake discs and pads changed recommendation at service (very bad they said). I’ve done a quick check on google which says pads should last about 50K and discs 80K which sounds about right. Now, on 106K they have recommended new discs and pads again. That’s just 40K down the line. Coupled with the fact that my rear tyres have worn faster than the front (all 4 were new together) AND the weeping of oil from the rear suspension struts could all this be related and causing the brake components to fail prematurely? Brakes binding perhaps?

 

Second up:

 

Interval for timing belt change.

 

As far as I know this is 5 years or 100K miles?? that would mean I’m due one this Dec. When I told them it was due a belt/pump change on booking this recent service the guy said “oh, they’ve changed the interval now and mine doesn’t need doing??

 

Is this correct?

 

Rear door fault:

 

Their recent report says “Rear tailgate not working. Car has internal failure of the boot latch. Requires new boot latch and tailgate motors calibration.”

 

Q1) Will this be the part that fits on the door itself or the part that fits to the boot base? (could it be a wiring fault as its intermittent?)

Q2) what would the process of calibrating the tail gate motors?

 

Thing is, they quoted me £244 but the part, if I’ve looked at the right one on line. Is less than £50!

 

and finally …

 

Electric water pump fault:

“Fault stored for electrical coolant pump V488 (rear pump Pierburg)”

 

I haven’t had a dashboard light come up for this so I can’t see it being that serious of a thing?

What’s the job of this pump? As I recall in the past there was only one coolant pump but apparently I’ve got 3?

 

What’s the likely cause?

I saw this post on another forum responding to someone with a similar problem who spoke about having a relay replaced to cure a fault but it didn’t. The fault was a coolant pump running while the engine was cold…

 

“You have two additional electric water pumps, the V188 at the front of the engine for the intercooler and the V488 at the rear of the engine which is the heater support pump. These are both controlled by the ECU but unhelpfully both use the same fuse 27 in the engine bay fuse board, separate fuses would help with diagnosis. You need to identify which one is running on and also whether it is Bosch 5G0 965 567 but now 2Q0 965 567 A or Pierburg 5Q0 965 561 B, thankfully the V188 and V488 are the same part numbers. I have seen a lot of these pumps fail and on your version failure of the V188 can give a cavitation fault code for the V488.”

 

 

Now I had, and still do, an intermittent fault where I hear, what I always thought was, a cooling fan running. This has happened even when the engine has been cold and no ignition on?? I’m now thinking it could be this pump but why the fault has never been picked up before now is anyones guess?? I never did lift the bonnet to check. I mentioned it to a mechanic once and he said it’s a know fault and its down to a relay??

Any ideas anyone?

 

Thanks for your patients.

 

Dave

 

As for the brakes, yes they might last the original 50k but after time corrosion sets in and they wear out faster. Not forgetting aftermarket parts or poorer quality that won't last as long.

3 hours ago, Davet30 said:

As far as I know this is 5 years or 100K miles?? that would mean I’m due one this Dec. When I told them it was due a belt/pump change on booking this recent service the guy said “oh, they’ve changed the interval now and mine doesn’t need doing??

Maybe I missed it, but you didn't tell us what engine you have.

If a TDI engine VAG recommends a timing belt replacement at 210000km without time limit.

18 hours ago, Bap33 said:

Maybe I missed it, but you didn't tell us what engine you have.

If a TDI engine VAG recommends a timing belt replacement at 210000km without time limit.

sorry - its a TDI - I'll update my profile akin to yours.   Thanks ... looks like I have a few more years left. 

Edited 1 July, 20241 yr by Davet30

I've posted in another post about a fault code P26F6 , turns out that this was the additional 'rear' water cooler pump or V488 that you quoted that was at fault.

 

Yesterday TPS sent the wrong one to the garage and didn't have a clue how to get find out the correct one so the garage removed the pump ( it takes 2 mins ) and quoted the part number, think it works out at 170 odd quid plus vat which is absolutely scandalous, however I had to put it back on and arranged to go back to get it done but the mil late has stayed off since taking it off and on, was it just a connection issue? Might wait to see now...but apparently a very common fault on these .

This has done nearly 290k with very little issues.

 

Re Cambelt: different for me as this car is a workhourse but I change mine every 60k regardless of what anyone says, if you ever have a cambelt snap on you you will know why !! 

On 30/06/2024 at 23:37, Davet30 said:

 

 

Second up:

 

Interval for timing belt change.

 

As far as I know this is 5 years or 100K miles?? that would mean I’m due one this Dec. When I told them it was due a belt/pump change on booking this recent service the guy said “oh, they’ve changed the interval now and mine doesn’t need doing??

 

Is this correct?

That Comment which the service guy made does look to be correct, according to the Cam Belt Guidance change which I picked up from a member on these Forums... So much conflicting information about this - it's mind boggling...Worth a read though.. HTH

Cam Belt Guidance change (1).pdf

On 03/07/2024 at 14:50, GordoGT said:

That Comment which the service guy made does look to be correct, according to the Cam Belt Guidance change which I picked up from a member on these Forums... So much conflicting information about this - it's mind boggling...Worth a read though.. HTH

Cam Belt Guidance change (1).pdf 893.71 kB · 4 downloads

180k mile intervals ? 😆 seriously did I read that correctly? 

There is absolutely no way I'd risk going that length of milage and not change a cambelt.

I change mine every 60/70k