Hi,

I have a 2017 1.4l 110 kW / 150 hp

About to change the front wheel bearings an came across three different torque specs for the same bolt.
Two are on autodoc's guides
Guide on how to change the wheel bearings to front, says to tighten the axel bolt to
70 Nm + 90°

 

Same site but a different guide this time how to change the front shock absorbers,

in which you need to take out the axel bolt. Here its says to tighten it to
200 Nm nothing about degrees

 

And here some of the topics suggest that it its 200 Nm + 180°

 

One manual referred in this older post  here says

Drive shaft to wheel hub with wheel bearing „hexagon screw“
t     Use new screw
t     Vehicle must not be standing on its wheels for tightening the screw 200 Nm + 180°

Drive shaft to wheel hub with wheel bearing „twelve-sided bolt“
t Use new screw
t     Vehicle must not be standing on its wheels for tightening the screw 70 Nm + 90°

Also commented on the same post
12 sided bolt with serration: 70 Nm + 90°
12 sided bolt without serration: 200 Nm + 180°

 

Been googling around and so far none of the bolts I've seen pictures of genuine or aftermarket has "serration" on the backside,
my guess there is no such thing?

Think this is the bolt referred in the manual as "hexagonal screw"


An this the twelve-sided bolt (genuine bolt other pic on the site shows no serrations)

 

Edited 12 September, 20241 yr by WD4000

They are different bolts, the serrations are on the underside of the built in "washer"

Yes I get that they are different bolt, just have not found any pics or listing for a bolt that has them.

Gennuine VAG bolts seem to be flat too (so my guess it that it's 200 Nm + 180° is the correct spec then)

but are there serrated versions anymore if the originals are flat too.

200 Nm + 180° sounds so overkill id rather find some of those serrated ones if I can.

The serrated ones are usually on the higher end/power cars. I'd just put in what came out.

I’ve recently changed a rear hub and the spec was 90nm plus 180 - there was no way I could confidently take it to +180 - I quit at 90nm + a quarter turn.

36 inch x 3/4 inch breaker bar and 3/4 inch x24mm 12 point socket on hand should I ever need to do these bolts- then I need to find a stronger or heavier person or two ! 

15 hours ago, Shuggyboatsuperb said:

36 inch x 3/4 inch breaker bar and 3/4 inch x24mm 12 point socket on hand should I ever need to do these bolts- then I need to find a stronger or heavier person or two ! 

I was on a 24” 3/4 bar and socket with a 36” extension slider over the top giving more than enough humph but 90nm plus a quarter turn was my comfort limit - based on almost 60 years of ‘gut feeling’…….😳

The autodoc guide also has a tip that says "Make sure that the drive axle is under load (when the car has been jacked up)" any idea what this means in practice?

Could mean something as simple as “brakes on”. Or held / locked in some way ?

Both front bearings changed.

Did torgue the axle bolts to the spec in the service manual

200 Nm + 180°

200nm was easy, the +180 on top was bit harder but with long enough

extension doable.

On 15/09/2024 at 15:11, WD4000 said:

Both front bearings changed.

Did torgue the axle bolts to the spec in the service manual

200 Nm + 180°

200nm was easy, the +180 on top was bit harder but with long enough

extension doable.

I hope you had a black bolt then if you did 200+180 degrees.

Silver bolts only need to be done to 200+90 degrees 

 

Part/unit	Tightening torque
Screw -WHT.005.437-	200 Nm and turn 180°
Screw -WHT.005.437.A-	200 Nm and turn 90° further

 

 

Taken from OE skoda manual.

On 16/09/2024 at 18:58, ApertureS said:

I hope you had a black bolt then if you did 200+180 degrees.

Silver bolts only need to be done to 200+90 degrees 

 

Part/unit	Tightening torque
Screw -WHT.005.437-	200 Nm and turn 180°
Screw -WHT.005.437.A-	200 Nm and turn 90° further

 

 

Taken from OE skoda manual.

Yeah it was black.