1 hour ago, nta16 said:

Great news.

 

Just to clarify, this 1.1kw heater with built in pump (cost equivalent to £130 including P&P)

 

is powered by electric from where?

the heater part is what Kw?

coupe heater is the other heater you previously put inside the car to defrost inside before you use the car?

 

 

The electric heater is connected to the same electrical system as the coupe heater, which in turn has a connector mounted in the lower front grille in which a plug a cable from the power outlet on our house. 

 

I can't really tell how much of the power goes to the heater coil and the built in pump, but a small circulation pump doesn't draw much power, so I would estimate that almost all of those 1100w goes to the heater coil. 

 

Correct, I installed the coupe heater to defrost the car, but as I didn't want to buy the heater DEFA offer (300w heating element screwed to the outside of the engine block)  I settled for only the coupe heater. 

I wasn't happy with only coupe heater as we can get as cold as -25⁰c here, and it will defrost enough of the car but as soon as I set off cold air will be blown in by the climatronicnand it took ages for it to get hot.  That's why I started to search for a engine heater again. 

 

So now I have the 1.1kw engine heater heating the coolant and the engine while the 1.1-1.3kw coupe heater defrost the car and minimize the need to use most of the heat in the water to get the coupe up to temp when driving off. 

On 06/11/2024 at 10:58, 51MM3 said:

The manual says it should stop at 55⁰c and start again below 40⁰c, but it seems like it goes higher as the car indicated higher temp. 

 

 

This is because the temp gauge on the dash is programmed to read 'Fast' before it hits operating temp. It will also stay solid at 90 between 70/75 and around 100/110 (I forget the actual values but its basically so the driver doesn't see the real life swings in temperature with engine load, thermostat operating etc.)

 

You will need a scan tool and view the live data of the CTS to get a better idea of the actual temperatures but it looks like its doing a good job regardless

Always go by the oil temperature for when the engine is fully warmed, 90+ C for oil temperature.  As stated the coolant will show 90 C and stay solidly there even though the actual coolant reading could be below, and above and swing between but not shown, only rock steady 90 c to save drivers being concerned about the varying temperature.

 

17 hours ago, SuperbTWM said:

This is because the temp gauge on the dash is programmed to read 'Fast' before it hits operating temp. It will also stay solid at 90 between 70/75 and around 100/110 (I forget the actual values but its basically so the driver doesn't see the real life swings in temperature with engine load, thermostat operating etc.)

 

You will need a scan tool and view the live data of the CTS to get a better idea of the actual temperatures but it looks like its doing a good job regardless

I think I might have read it somewhere now that you mention it. 

Did a quick temp check when I was about to pick the kids up from school. Was around 6⁰c out and the heater thermostat hadn't shut it off. 

 

Temp gauge showed 55⁰c when I turned the car on, if one would assume it's linear scale 

 

On 11/11/2024 at 17:56, nta16 said:

Always go by the oil temperature for when the engine is fully warmed, 90+ C for oil temperature.  As stated the coolant will show 90 C and stay solidly there even though the actual coolant reading could be below, and above and swing between but not shown, only rock steady 90 c to save drivers being concerned about the varying temperature.

 

Yes, I'm fully aware that water temp and engine temp is two different things. 

The reason I'm referring most to water temp is because I primarily did this to get hot air from the acc quicker. Savings in wear and fuel is a bonus. 

Sorry I didn't mean to imply you wouldn't know,  Savings in wear and fuel make sense and a good bonus.  A 50c uplift in temperature  is a good difference.