Hi. I've taken my assembly carrier off to clean the dpf and getting some creaking noises when driving after refitting. Wondering now if should have replaced the screws as advised in the manual but I can't find where to buy them anywhere on the Web - If anyone can point me to a site that sells them please I'd be very grateful. 

 

I need screws 6, o an 10 in the attached image.

 

Car has a CRLB engine, 2016 2.0l diesel.

 

Thanks all.

Worst case, there's a seller on Ebay called VAGBolts. If you know a part number (normally start with N), just Google it and see what appears. 

Thanks @StevesTruck - I can't find a parts # (found an online catalog but not these parts), frustrating eh! Ive tried VAGBolts too but again no joy. Any other tips would be great. Thanks.

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs

Thanks @Breezy_Pete, that's the online catalog i mentioned above (I think i came across it in one of your previous posts actually?!), but for the life of me i cant find the parts, or assembly carrier, in it. 

 

I'm probably doing something wrong but I simply can't find it. Please do try and help me look daft!

 

Thanks.

Do you know what your engine code is?

It looks like these may be the two possible diagrams that will cover them

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/1/199/199010

 

Or

https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/1/199/199011

Must admit though, I have doubts that reusing bolts will have caused a problem,  unless not done up tight enough.

@Breezy_Pete, you're the man, thank you!

 

I'll check torques in the morning.

 

Cheers.

12 hours ago, Breezy_Pete said:

Must admit though, I have doubts that reusing bolts will have caused a problem,  unless not done up tight enough.

These bolts need replacing.

 

they are stretch bolts. If they aren’t replaced you’ll snap them getting the same level of torque they had previously.

 

TTY bolts aren’t some government conspiracy as some may think, they are a legit thing used in safety critical applications to apply a lot of torque and prevent undoing.

 

you could also fit the subframe alignment kit which stops any side to side moment of the entire frame itself.

1 minute ago, ApertureS said:

If they aren’t replaced you’ll snap them getting the same level of torque they had previously

Hmm, I have grave doubts about the complete truth of that. Lots of folk including lots of professionals in non-Skoda garages will have done this many times to many different so-called stretch bolts,, and very few bolts will ever snap.  And if they do, they're by far most likely to do so whilst being tensioned so the spannerer will find out.

11 hours ago, Bensupreme said:

I'll check torques in the morning.

What specs did you use to tighten them? It's not really possible to check afterwards, if they are torque plus angle tightened (which most suspension and engine bolts are specified as these days, and which does not define them as 'torque to yield' types necessarily, it's just a more accurate way of achieving a given pre-tension level).

Edited 11 November, 20241 yr by Breezy_Pete

Thanks @ApertureS, I've ordered them after @Breezy_Pete helped find them last night so i'll switch them over whilst looking for the issue.

 

@Breezy_Pete, I tightened them as per the manual, 70nm torque plus 180 i think it was for the 4 main bolts. 

 

@ApertureS, I looked into the subframe fixing kit but couldn't find one to buy and seemed to simply locate 'fixed' positions on the assembly with 'fixed' positions on the chassis so felt more like it was just for making 'lining up' easier rather than actually preventing movement so I didn't bother. Mistake???

 

Thanks both.

 

The subframe tools allow you to put the thing back exactly where it came from, rather than to some particular fixed position. As each bolt comes out, you replace it with one of the tool 'bolts' which has freedom of movement to 'keep' the relative positions of the holes in the subframe and the chassis. I've got a set somewhere that I bought many years ago, just to see how they worked! 

 

Then, when ready to refit, you slip the subframe over them, and replace one by one with the real bolts, restoring the original position, and therefore any alignment.

Good explanation, I wish I had known of their existence and the need for them before dropping my subframe to replace the clutch.

 

Back then the only thing being promoted was probably the same thing but sold for competition cars and described as "centralising" the subframe "spot on" to "correct the wide factory tolerances" which to an engineer understanding what a tolerance is and what build up of tolerances is and why there was so much clearance on the bolted joints was utter nonsense aimed at extracting money from pigeons.

 

If only I had known what they actually did

 

Yours is the by far the best explanation I have read