Hello from Portugal i’m doing an diy on my friend Skoda changing the HG, i have all clear and ready to install the new gasket but i im quite afraid of the valve adjust, i have seen in other topic that i need to have the 4 pistons at the same height and mine isn’t and also i dont remove the Rocker arm. I was trying to install the head but doesnt sit flat because its already touching the rocker arm

Any help on the install and adjustment?  
I need to remove the rocker arm first right? And then install the head gasket and all bolts by hand and then the rocker arm and the adjustment

 

old gasket in the photo 

I presume that you mean the rocker shaft?

 

With a pushrod engine you do not have to concern yourself with the cam timing which is a bonus.

 

Normally the rocker shaft would have had to be removed to undo the cylinder head bolts, from what you say this is not the case with your engine.

 

You could remove the shaft, torque down the head and then refit the shaft but this needs to be done very progressively to avoid bending it and also making sure that all the rocker arms are correctly seated on the pushrods. I would probably leave it on place and progressively tighten all the head bolts before then torquing them down following the correct sequence, once again making absolutely sure that all the pushrods are correctly engaged, that is the thing most likely to go wrong and cause you problems.

 

The valve clearances should be readjusted after torquing down the cylinder head.

47 minutes ago, J.R. said:

I presume that you mean the rocker shaft?

 

With a pushrod engine you do not have to concern yourself with the cam timing which is a bonus.

 

Normally the rocker shaft would have had to be removed to undo the cylinder head bolts, from what you say this is not the case with your engine.

 

You could remove the shaft, torque down the head and then refit the shaft but this needs to be done very progressively to avoid bending it and also making sure that all the rocker arms are correctly seated on the pushrods. I would probably leave it on place and progressively tighten all the head bolts before then torquing them down following the correct sequence, once again making absolutely sure that all the pushrods are correctly engaged, that is the thing most likely to go wrong and cause you problems.

 

The valve clearances should be readjusted after torquing down the cylinder head.

Will remove the shaft by these 4 bolts in picture, torque the head and then refit the shaft and adjust the valve clearences. 
do you have the valve clearences? They are not new and the head wasnt skimmed but i assume that i always need to adjust them after the HG change

3 hours ago, rubentmi17 said:

i have seen in other topic that i need to have the 4 pistons at the same height

I have no idea where you saw that, but it means that you adjust valves with the pistons in mid-stroke. This is not, repeat not, the case. You adjust valves one cylinder at a time, when that cylinder is at Top Dead Centre between the compression and firing strokes. If you didn't understand that, do yourself and your friend both a favour, and go and watch videos of the theory of 4 cylinder engines, and how to adjust valve clearances, until you do.

He did not mean that, what he was told was reasonable advice, having all pistons at mid stroke will reduce the valve lift on the cylinders reducing any forces on the rocker shaft or cylinder head but due to the duration and overlap and multiple cylinders some will always be partially open.

 

1 hour ago, rubentmi17 said:

do you have the valve clearences? They are not new and the head wasnt skimmed but i assume that i always need to adjust them after the HG change

 

No I don't know them on that engine, I have had OHC's with hydraulic lifters (self adjusting) for 30 years now, I could still recall most of them for preceeding engines together with the points gap though!

 

Any difference in the head gasket compressed thickness will be reflected in the valve clearances, as you kept the pushrods in position and if you do not remove the rocker shaft I very much doubt you will find any needing adjustment unless they needed it before the gasket replacement.

 

1 hour ago, J.R. said:

He did not mean that, what he was told was reasonable advice, having all pistons at mid stroke will reduce the valve lift on the cylinders reducing any forces on the rocker shaft or cylinder head but due to the duration and overlap and multiple cylinders some will always be partially open.

 

 

No I don't know them on that engine, I have had OHC's with hydraulic lifters (self adjusting) for 30 years now, I could still recall most of them for preceeding engines together with the points gap though!

 

Any difference in the head gasket compressed thickness will be reflected in the valve clearances, as you kept the pushrods in position and if you do not remove the rocker shaft I very much doubt you will find any needing adjustment unless they needed it before the gasket replacement.

 

Thanks m8 it was a TEMAC gasket