Hi. 

 

I have a 2007, Skoda Fabia MK1, 1.2 petrol, Classic, manual and the front electric windows have stopped working simultaneously.

 

I have replaced all the 25 amp fuses in the fuse board at the side of the dashboard and also replaced the 25 amp fusebox that sits over the negative post of the battery, where there's 4 or 5 different fuses. 

 

But still to no avail. 

 

Does anyone have any idea what the possible cause could be? 

 

Many thanks, John. 

Drivers side window motor unit controls both passenger and drivers side windows. My sons failed and no windows. Nightmare as I had to drive home in -5 with drivers side down on slushy roads. Was frozen soild and even had ice in my hair. Got it fixed/exchanged  by someone on here but can't remember off hand. Its normally a couple of components within the unit that fails. If you order a second hand one a lot of the units sold on ebay are for LHD cars and won't be the same. Think from memory they have the same part number but the RHD ones are 6Q2***** not 6Q1***** It could also be the wiring that comes through the door. The cables have been known to break. I would check continuity of cables first but does sound like the window motor/controler

Just remembered. Breezy_Pete fixed mine. It was about a year ago so not sure if he is still repairing.

Alasdair

Edited 30 December, 20241 yr by Alasdair1

Definitely check the wiring in the gaitor between car body and door, those wires do break and cause this. You can unclip and pull the concertina black gaitor back revealing the cores. I had to change the door loom on my old Roomster for this.

Edited 30 December, 20241 yr by aubrey

I'd be about 99% sure it'll be driver's side motor module needing repair or replacement. 

Wouldn't bother checking wiring at door bellows, it's a better design on mk1 Fabia than on a lot of the later models.

Message me about repair options if you wish @JohnnyG7uk.

@Breezy_Pete   Do Yetis suffer from door loom problems. Not had any issues yet, but just wondering if those are included within them later models ?

Yes, I think so.

Any model where the bellows goes straight across between A-pillar and door is problematic. 

Absence of a vertical dogleg means that the loom has to bend every time the door moves.

In Mk1 Fabia,  9N Polos etc there's a significant vertical dogleg, making it possible for that vertical bit of loom to take the movement by twisting along its length instead.

Hi. 

 

Thanks for your replies.  At least I know what is hopefully wrong with it. I'll leave it just now, but will get it fixed when the weather gets better. The windows are closed just now, so it's not a problem. 

 

Happy New Year to you all. 

 

Many thanks, John. 

Oops, wrong car make.

 

I had an issue with the windows not working on my Roomster. At first, it seemed weather-dependent. After a long dry period or leaving the engine running with the heating at full blast for an hour, the problem disappeared briefly.  The controller boards of the window motors showed no traces of moisture or corrosion. 

The diagnosis of the local Skoda garage showed that I needed a new driver-side window motor. Due to the car's age (2006), it is only available for extortionate prices if at all. Paying 400 Euro for a component in a car that costed me 3500 Euro seemed a bit exaggerated. The motor itself is fine when using an external power supply. Also, the forums gave the impression that the repair could be unstable.  I got the impression, that if there is an issue with the LIN bus, the whole window system stops working. I could not find any usable information on debugging the Skoda LIN bus. 

I decided to make a new controller. First I ordered ElseWin to get the electric schematics. 

It turns out that each window switch is connected to a variable resistor: push: 170 ohm, hard push: 0 ohm, pull: 1800 ohm, hard pull: 540 ohm to ground. This way, 1 wire is sufficient. 

The original controller has a double relay, one section for up and one section for down.  I made a small additional controller that operates the relays directly, depending on the switch's resistance.  The original PCB traces from the controller to the relay and the switch input were cut and the new circuit was connected. Diode D1 ensures that the up and down relays are not operated at the same time. This logic also required the use of 2 electronic relays instead of 2 transistors to drive the original relays. 

The windows work again, with some limitations: you can only operate the window with the switch in the door itself, the auto open/close does not work, and there is no force limiting anymore (we don't have children, so I accept the risk).

 

Edited 13 January, 20251 yr by wimton
Oops, wrong car make.