12 minutes ago, spen686 said:

.. but, I really like the sound of this one. So they're saying clamping pressure is dynamically adjusted by engine torque so it should cope with torque loads as you add performance to the car..  anyone have this gearbox map? Any idea how much it is?

Yep it’s exactly what I’ve got as needed it for my ECU remap. 
The main thing that all the DSG remaps will do is increase clamping pressure to stand higher torque generated. TVS build a number of other factors into their maps, I think the remaining ones probably tend to do less (certainly don’t say as much) but may change shift points and shift speed too.

 

The TVS deal might be with lower stage ECU combo perhaps?

I bought my RL ECU and DSG remap with the flash at home module. Its basically a one-price includes everything - so I have Stage 1 High Torque on there at the moment; if I fitted an intercooler I could just plug in and remap to Stage 1+ for free. That’s plugged into the laptop or I can do it via Bluetooth to the iPad or iPhone too. 
And it includes resetting the stop-start to off by default. And it also includes the ability to Flash to Zero. As an anti-theft measure you can map it to nothing so the car would never start. 

I can put it back to standard, flash to account for 95RON, flash to low torque versions. The only thing you don’t get is a RR session at the time but I can take it somewhere and get it tested whenever.

 

That was £966 for everything (ECU map, TCU map, flash module). I think that was a Black Friday deal. It’s currently 480 for the TCU, 900 with remap and 198 on top for the module if you don’t want to take it somewhere. If you do, replace the 198 for whatever they charge. 

20 hours ago, travs said:

That was £966 for everything (ECU map, TCU map, flash module). I think that was a Black Friday deal. It’s currently 480 for the TCU, 900 with remap and 198 on top for the module if you don’t want to take it somewhere. If you do, replace the 198 for whatever they charge. 

Can't see the pricing on their website.. I'll have another look on my pc at work or call them I guess. Quick check.. the DSG remap sounds ideal.. what's the ecu remap like? Not too aggressive?

25 minutes ago, spen686 said:

Can't see the pricing on their website.. I'll have another look on my pc at work or call them I guess. Quick check.. the DSG remap sounds ideal.. what's the ecu remap like? Not too aggressive?

RacingLine don’t sell direct. I went through AwesomeGTI as I think they have a pretty good relationship I think and seem to peddle quite a few RL products. 

There is a RacingLine shop but they only do hardware and don’t sell maps. 

The map is really smooth as far as I’m concerned. The most notable difference in the real world is top end where the standard output starts to run out of puff. This thing just keeps pulling into 3 figures on private roads without breaking a sweat.

Just had my first conversation with a local Tuner.. they sell APR and EcoTune. They prefer EcoTune.. not so good on the headline power figures but I nice torquey power delivery. Anyone got any experience of this tune? 

 

Interesting I asked about the TCU map and apparently all the good ones dynamically adjust clutch clamping pressure dynamically based on engine demand so not just RacingLine. Helps simplify the choice a bit.

No experience - I've always thought they were more associated with Fords - Focus RS and all that. Torque is probably better for real-world driving - larger area under the torque curve etc. High bhp only makes a difference at higher speeds and then you're look at losing your licence

For once they actually do acknowledge the ea888.4 engine and give 400bhp (same as RL) but 565NM of torque (mine is 520ish I think). Sounds like they know their stuff.

5 hours ago, travs said:

For once they actually do acknowledge the ea888.4 engine and give 400bhp (same as RL) but 565NM of torque (mine is 520ish I think). Sounds like they know their stuff.

 

For some reason they don't come up much in Google searches.. their own pages do, but not much chatter about them in the forums. 🤷 Are they late to the party?

 

Anyway, this lot (check out Retro Resus website) do EcoTune and APR. Not much in it prise wise (£12 to £1300 Ish for stage 1 or 2 with a TCU tune) He was keen on the EcoTune. He also recommended a supply and fit Garret turbo upgrade but that was a bit rich for me.. four grand I think? 

 

I've yet to have a ring around some of the Turbo rebuild companies.. see if I can find a moderate upgrade/refurb to my now spare stock turbo.. £500 might do it surely? I wonder how much it would cost to get a tubbo swapped out? Then get a map that takes advantage of a mild upgrade to your turbo. 400 brake would be nice. I'd stop there 😎

 

Then on to the brakes. Cheapest / most bang for your buck way to improve the stopping power. I'm hoping a wise choice in pads, maybe discs can make enough difference 🤞

Edited 17 February17 Feb by spen686

Yeah ok that looks like it's more on a par with TVS cost-wise; although not sure how much of that is rolling-road/labour. I went with a flash-at-home module out of simplicity if anything else. Had to buy the module (£198) but means I can reflash or change the map if needed.

 

For the supply and fit turbo - £4k depends on the parts/labour split I guess to know whether its a costly part; I don't think its an engine pull on our engine as the turbo is at the top of the engine at the back, next to the bulkhead; if you were going to do that, you might want to look at silicon/reinforced boost hoses too and the intercooler will be the next weak point not being able to flow or, after a little while, effectively cool the charge - again, less so on real roads but any repeated throttling up and you'll end up with engine bay heatsoak. Hybrid may well be a decent offering for the price - just the headache of not having the car while they do the work. Rent a car for a week and you're still comfortably quids-in compared to a swap.

 

Brakes I'd look at Mtec discs; competitively priced but good enough for a few on here, including ApertureS who wouldn't put cheese on his car (check out his project thread). They do a variety of options (basically for the same price) and then you can have them coated so the non-contact parts stay black rather than turning a lovely shade of "oxidisation orange". Mine are grooved & cross-drilled; you get a little bit of moaning from the grooves on heavier braking but in general you don't hear them.

I was looking at EBC Redstuff or Yellowstuff pads but there were a few mentions of pads falling apart. I'm sure its very low risk, but its still more than I read about others, so plenty of options. I went with ATE who do a low-dust Ceramic pad. Seems to be doing well so far. I'm sure VBT (VagBremTechnic), Ferodo etc all do well but I thought I read somewhere that Brembo replacements were a little underwhelming - pity as they've got a monster reputation obviously (it may be different arms of the business do OE compared to the big 4-pot floating disc setups).

 

Someone mentioned Porsche Macan 4-pot calipers which look to be a straight swap too (same size I think). Audi S3 ones are the same as original but look a bit better as they have the plate that fills in the gap and makes them look a bit more serious - I'm not describing that very well; google image it to see what I mean).

HEL braided hoses are a well-respected brand for upgrading. I didn't do it on mine when I swapped parts, but when I get the brake fluid changed next I'll add them. No-one seems to be in any hurry to get BBKs, and that involves new callipers and calliper-carriers, so the cost starts to sky-rocket with that (especially starting to consider wheel size to accommodate).

Well that's the turbo decision made.. I just bought a Garrett Powermax GT2260S so now the on the hunt for the best option to fit and put a suitable map on it. I've been researching the hell out of all the supporting mods, none of which I really want to do.. intercooler, fuel pump, down pipe.. each one 7 or £800 plus fitting.. it all adds up.

As far as I can tell, intercooler.. yes, needed if it gets really hot.. so track days or I relocate to California. UK winters, generally gentle motorway driving and the occasional poke for a bit of fun. I'll leave that off.

Downpipe.. yes it will flow better but all the risks with MOT emissions and noise, and smell.. as long it's just sacrificing ultimate GGs.. I'll leave it.

High pressure fuel pump.. ok.. I can see how I might need that.. give it more air from the turbo, the map will want to give it more fuel to keep up. I've read you don't really need to do that until your pushing 500bhp or so,but for the sake of a £300 for some internals.. maybe I'll just get that done.

So, installer and map to choose.. hmm 🤔

If ur going to put a Garret turbo in, don't skimp out and get the supporting hardware.

The intercooler and downpipe, minimum.

If ur doing Stage 3 power levels, then u should do the HPFP.

Otherwise, don't b surprised if u blow up the turbo, or something else down the line.

14 hours ago, JR RS said:

If ur going to put a Garret turbo in, don't skimp out and get the supporting hardware.

The intercooler and downpipe, minimum.

If ur doing Stage 3 power levels, then u should do the HPFP.

Otherwise, don't b surprised if u blow up the turbo, or something else down the line.

I'll speak to the guys I have in mind to do the work. Obviously they would love to sell me all the extra parts - and I would love to do them all at once. What I'm trying to fully understand is specifically, what is the impact of each missing upgrade part. Sacrificing BHP or reliability. As far as I can see, it's the former.

So for example.. Using approximate figures, we know the IS38 running at fairly safe low boost figures on stock hardware delivers 300ish BHP. And still sometimes they blow up. Running with all the goodies, airbox, downpipe, more boost, etc. Maybe you can squeeze low 400s.

Then a Garrett, we know with all the goodies including fuel upgrades, can make high 400s. Maybe a 40/50 BHP increase in potential thanks to say a 30% improvement in airflow? So without supporting mods, I'm restricting the potential of the new turbo, and the tuner will have to set the boost a bit lower until I can afford to do them all. What would be crazy would be to fit the turbo and not do a custom tune - I've added loads of air so the fuelling and timing, etc. need to be adjusted or that risks reliability. But with a custom tune, not doing all the potential upgrades should mean the Turbo not running at its full potential and therefore barely breaking a sweat. I'll just have to accept a more modest power increase.

Top of my list on that basis is a High Pressure Fuel Pump (even though some of the fuel pump vendors talk of them being needed once you get to 500BHP level tunes).

I've already dealt with the airbox (Pikey R600). That leaves Intercooler.. Without it, day to day, I reckon I won't need it. It's a cold country and most of the time I'm not giving it any beans. BUT, if I absolutely gun it and temperatures rise beyond the capacity of the stock intercooler, then the ECU will respond by dialling down the boost. No broken turbo, just reduced power. Gearbox is the other risk for reliability, so I'll definitely be looking at getting a TCU map with increased clutch clamping pressure to cope with the additional Torque.

The only grey area remaining for me is the downpipe. And how much BHP I'm leaving on the table by not doing everything in one hit.

Edited 10 March10 Mar by spen686

Ok, so I think I've managed to answer my own question..on the EcoTune website is a package which is pretty much bang on what I'm trying to do. A Garrett Powermax stage 1 turbo, without doing any of the extras like intercooler, downpipe, etc. Just the Turbo, an air filter and a remap. Should yield around 400 GGs which is around my target. Kind of thinking maybe I'll do the fuel pump.. maybe not, we'll see.

Haven't posted for a while but thought I'd give you an update.. so the car has been down to Retro Resus near Taunton and had a PowerMax 1 fitted and an Ecotune remap and DSG map too. Target was 400 bhp but so far we've only made 380. Temperatures were running very hot, limiting power so the car is booked back in to have a new Aircon rad fitted. Plus they found a couple of other issues.. The coil packs needed replacing and the injectors need sorting. So fingers crossed, after another visit we should get there.

Can't report back on how she drives as I'm having to keep a light right foot until the other bits have been fixed. Plus, I'm finding the power delivery very jerky. Like, head yanking off your shoulders jerky. I asked if there was a problem with the DSG map but the suspicion is the DSG needs a service so that will get done too.

While it was in there I got them to fit the Golf R rear ARB I bought on eBay.. I can definitely recommend that as a low cost mod. The handling is much improved. They've recommended replacing the shocks.. they're pretty much shot.. not surprising after 100k miles I guess. Bilstein B6s are the recommendation. Need to save a few more pennies before I do that.

Good stuff Spen - fingers crossed the hidden horses can be found too!